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Author: Subject: 2000 pinto hunting
Mash

posted on 18/7/22 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
2000 pinto hunting

Took the Indy for it's MOT today, first time in my ownership as I've been doing a rebuild on it for years.

Was expecting a fail on something, but wasn't sure what it would be and it turned out to be the brakes, but just the rears out of balance, which will be a quick strip down clean free off and re-build hopefully, Sierra drum braked axle on the back.

Main thing I was concerned about was emissions, as its the first time my local garage has had it in, but he quickly established it was to e tested on the 1986 sierra standard and it breezed it

On the way back, however (its only a 4 mile round trip) just got to our lane and it started mis-firing, felt like I was giving it beans and then easing off every few seconds, sort of hunting. It is a Webber DFTH 30 34 carb and it has a solenoid valve on it which I thought was causing the problem, so I disconnected it.

It ran fine on the way there as it was warmed p by the time I'd reached the main road from our lane, so it was p to temperature and didn't miss a beat. It also ran fine when I had to rev it up for the emissions test and then ran fine for the first 2 miles of the return journey, then suddenly, it was a kangaroo

If anyone has any thoughts I'd be pleased to hear them..........





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gremlin1234

posted on 18/7/22 at 01:18 PM Reply With Quote
what fuel are you using?
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Mash

posted on 18/7/22 at 01:25 PM Reply With Quote
Just unleaded, it was converted when first built.

It was the same when I last drove it some years ago and I thought disconnecting the solenoid would do it as I found some info an a mini forum about it.





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Mash

posted on 18/7/22 at 01:33 PM Reply With Quote
Just for some more info....

When I last drove it, it was to Portsmouth from our house near Ringwood. It went fine all the way there, then on the return trip 2 days later, it started playing up after about 5 miles. I pulled over and had quick look under the bonnet, thinking maybe the spark plug leads were shorting out or something. all seemed Ok and after about 10 minutes i set off to try it out and it was fine all the way home!

Really weird.......





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indykid

posted on 18/7/22 at 02:18 PM Reply With Quote
Isn't the solenoid a fuel shut off to stop it running on? (called an anti dieseling valve in Weber parlance iirc)

Pretty sure mine got 12V while the ignition's on (before swapping to fireblade carbs). Might be worth checking it's opening and closing when it should, unless you mean you removed the solenoid valve rather than removing the connector

[Edited on 18/7/22 by indykid]






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Mash

posted on 18/7/22 at 03:00 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by indykid
Isn't the solenoid a fuel shut off to stop it running on? (called an anti dieseling valve in Weber parlance iirc)

Pretty sure mine got 12V while the ignition's on (before swapping to fireblade carbs). Might be worth checking it's opening and closing when it should, unless you mean you removed the solenoid valve rather than removing the connector

[Edited on 18/7/22 by indykid]


Yes mine was getting 12v whilst ignition was on. I disconnected it and effectively removed it because of what I had read on the mini forum (annoyingly, can't find that now). But it seemed to run fine for the first 3or so miles after warming up this morning, so not sure how that would suddenly affect it?





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Mr Whippy

posted on 18/7/22 at 03:42 PM Reply With Quote
does it have points ignition? that going out of wack ruins the performance
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Mash

posted on 18/7/22 at 04:57 PM Reply With Quote
I just don't see why it should run fine, then suddenly start playing up, and then run fine again, sometimes for quite a long distance........





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jacko

posted on 19/7/22 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
How old is the fuel ?
Is the spark plugs ok what about the ht Leeds
Jacko

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Mash

posted on 19/7/22 at 12:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
How old is the fuel ?
Is the spark plugs ok what about the ht Leeds
Jacko


Fuel bought last week.
New plugs last year
New HT leads last year





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minitici

posted on 19/7/22 at 04:22 PM Reply With Quote
vaporized fuel due to the heat?
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Mash

posted on 19/7/22 at 04:34 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by minitici
vaporized fuel due to the heat?


Hmmm, possibly, ut can't see why it would miraculously fix itself with no real cooling down and then drive perfectly normally for another 4 minutes





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Schrodinger

posted on 19/7/22 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
What fuel pump are you using?





Keith

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Mash

posted on 20/7/22 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
What fuel pump are you using?


Using a bike fuel pump Keith, but when it first happened, it had a standard Ford mechanical one. Had a horror story years ago with my Mexico where the mechanical fuel pump bladder thingy failed and it pumped fuel into the sump, so decided to swap for a bike pump to avoid that happening to this one. So it's had the same problem with 2 different type of pumps.





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SteveWalker

posted on 20/7/22 at 11:22 AM Reply With Quote
Coil beginning to fail and breaking down when its temperature changes?
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Mash

posted on 20/7/22 at 05:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
Coil beginning to fail and breaking down when its temperature changes?


Hmmm, might be worth a try Steve, I have a spare so I'll try it......





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nick205

posted on 21/7/22 at 10:50 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mash
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
Coil beginning to fail and breaking down when its temperature changes?


Hmmm, might be worth a try Steve, I have a spare so I'll try it......



That seems feasible and if you've got a spare then give it a go.

The vapourizing fuel seems unlikely to me. As you say it ought to need longer to cool off before running properly again.

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perksy

posted on 21/7/22 at 09:42 PM Reply With Quote
I'd say Coil

Sorry speed read this, so not sure if your running a Dizzy, but I'd check the rotor arm aswell if you are

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adithorp

posted on 22/7/22 at 06:32 AM Reply With Quote
Difficult without seeing it but from your description (thousands of customer descriptions give a feel) I'd say not plugs, leads or points/condenser. Those would usually be the same or worse when cold
Possibles that would give symptoms you describe...
Fuel tank air lock - try loosening the cap when it happens.
Coil failing.
Valve clearances too tight.





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rusty nuts

posted on 22/7/22 at 07:49 PM Reply With Quote
Check the valve clearances as already suggested,
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Mash

posted on 27/7/22 at 05:48 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all of the replies guys

Quick update.

Came to a head this morning when it died and then wouldn't run at all and it seems like it's carb related. Managed to get it home, just, so my next moove is to take the carb off and get a refurb kit and sort it. We'll see how that affects it.....





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adithorp

posted on 28/7/22 at 11:24 AM Reply With Quote
None of the suggestions above cured it then?





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Mash

posted on 29/7/22 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
None of the suggestions above cured it then?


No, main difficulty diagnosing was the fact that it was just so random, but when it just wouldn't drive at all, I fiddled with it at the MOT garage, with the guys and we reckoned it might just be cr@p in the carb.

So I took it apart yesterday before the kit arrived and there was definitely some rubbish in the main emulsifier tube. Anyway cleaned it and the secondary and both jets and put it back together tot try it and it ran and idled fine, so swapped out the bits from th kit this morning and I'll test it when I'v replaced the leaking wheel cylinder and I take it back to the garage. I just can't road test it without the MOT, but hopefully the wheel cylinder will remedy that problem.





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gremlin1234

posted on 29/7/22 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
if it continues to fail after the carb repairs, I think the next thing is to change all the rubber fuel pipes. they can degrade from the inside.

edit, I note no one seems to have said fuel filter?

[Edited on 29/7/22 by gremlin1234]

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Mash

posted on 2/8/22 at 03:54 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
if it continues to fail after the carb repairs, I think the next thing is to change all the rubber fuel pipes. they can degrade from the inside.

edit, I note no one seems to have said fuel filter?

[Edited on 29/7/22 by gremlin1234]


Well it seems to be OK after the carb clean and I have fitted a replacement diaphragm from the kit and a new top gasket. Everything else from the kit didn't relte to the carb as there seem to be about 3 different versions of it. There was some nasty gunk in the primary emulsion tube, which I've cleaned out.

It actually has 2 filters in the fuel line, one near the engine which was fitted by the previous owner and one attached to the motorbike fuel pump I bought, so ifit doesn't work after this last effort, I'll try those.

Trouble is, I live about half a mile down a rough farm track, which I can only negotiate slowly due to the ground clearance, so the only time I can test it at the moment is on the way to and from the MOT. Hopefully it will pass on Friday when I take it in AGAIN, after replacing the brake cylinders.





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