Slimy38
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 03:20 PM |
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Wiring fixings
Is there anything in the IVA that says whether a cable fixing is good or bad? I know there's a fair bit about fuel and brake lines being
adequately fixed, but I don't remember anything about wiring.
As an example, I have a pair of wires going from a side repeater, along the body front half up to the hinge (whole front of the car is hinged at the
front), then it'll come back into the car at that point. I reckon there's a metre or so of wire I need to pin inside a GRP body.
Would those adhesive cable tie bases do the job, or should it be something a bit 'more'?
This is what I'm talking about;
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 03:46 PM |
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the General Construction part covers
"8. All electrical cables/wires must be free from chaffing and secured at intervals
of at least every 300mm unless contained in a secure hollow component (see
Note 4).
9. All electrical components must be secure, be of adequate capacity, and be
insulated as required as to prevent short circuiting during operation."
I am sure bases like this should not be used. I cant find it explicitly in the manual, but would that kind of mount be used in a production car?
just mount them in a similar way to your fuel/brake lines
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nick205
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 03:51 PM |
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I did SVA (pre IVA).
I can't promise it, but IIRC they didn't like adhesive fixings.
Heat and age could make the adhesive fail and the wires fall lose.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 05:48 PM |
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Depending on the quality/material of those, I would rather used moulded versions of those.
Not sure how up on 3d printed materials the inspectors are but might be worth making savings else where.
Mistral Motorsport
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Slimy38
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 07:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
I did SVA (pre IVA).
I can't promise it, but IIRC they didn't like adhesive fixings.
Heat and age could make the adhesive fail and the wires fall lose.
I was thinking of blobs of tiger seal to make extra sure, if that failed then I'd be in major trouble!
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Slimy38
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 07:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Depending on the quality/material of those, I would rather used moulded versions of those.
Not sure how up on 3d printed materials the inspectors are but might be worth making savings else where.
Aye, it was only because I was on Thingiverse while I was thinking about them, and the image popped up.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 07:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
just mount them in a similar way to your fuel/brake lines
Unfortunately while the fuel and brake lines are running along metal, the wiring I'm sorting first (the side repeaters) have no metal routing.
They have about a metre of GRP to be attached to before they can get to metal.
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 09:35 PM |
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Self adhesive fixings won't pass without a secondary fixing (screw).
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Slimy38
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| posted on 18/3/24 at 11:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Self adhesive fixings won't pass without a secondary fixing (screw).
I can't put a screw in, it would be sticking straight out the bonnet. I think these have been suggested before;
https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/m8-x-25mm-male-stainless-steel-thread
I'd most likely do a less fancy/costly version, but fibreglassing those on to the bonnet underside should be ok?
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Slimy38
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| posted on 19/3/24 at 08:28 AM |
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Thinking more about this last night, I was wondering whether I'm focusing on the wrong thing. It's not necessarily the mount that is bad
(although I agree a 3D printed version is pushing it). It's the fixing. I've just gone back to Skov's build diary (the source of so
much of my information lately!), and he uses those cable tie mounts but fibreglassed in.
I was particularly impressed how tidy the patches were done, but more importantly that it went through IVA like that. So rather than overthinking the
mount itself, I'm going to get a fibreglass repair kit (I only need a small amount to patch them in) and go for regular mounts with a substantial
fixing.
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adithorp
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| posted on 19/3/24 at 04:17 PM |
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It's the self adhesive pad/patch they don't like. Bond them on with PU and you'll be ok. I formed some ally strips that the loom could
be threaded under and bonded them on for my test.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 19/3/24 at 05:01 PM |
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A completely different idea, but would they need to be fastened to the body/chassis every 300mm if they were supported on a cable chain, designed to
support and protect, while also allowing movement, such as:
Cable Chain
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 19/3/24 at 08:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
A completely different idea, but would they need to be fastened to the body/chassis every 300mm if they were supported on a cable chain, designed to
support and protect, while also allowing movement, such as:
Cable Chain
I guess that might qualify as
"contained in a secure hollow component"
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mazie
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| posted on 23/3/24 at 07:47 AM |
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On the Fury bonnet I glass and bonded in some of the large sticky cable mounts. They were solid.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 23/3/24 at 10:39 AM |
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if you are ever likely to remove the bonnet for maintenance I suggest fitting a plug and socket.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/3/24 at 10:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
if you are ever likely to remove the bonnet for maintenance I suggest fitting a plug and socket.
Yep, I've got one for the front that will live near to the hinge, and another for the rear although hopefully the rear won't come off that
frequently.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 23/3/24 at 05:24 PM |
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while you are in this area, have you thought about where the 'audible warning of approach' (horn/horns) might be?
now would be the time to add any fixings for that, too.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/3/24 at 09:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
while you are in this area, have you thought about where the 'audible warning of approach' (horn/horns) might be?
now would be the time to add any fixings for that, too.
Yep that's all ready to be fixed to the chassis. Wiring on the chassis is pretty straightforward, I welded some tabs in appropriate places so I
have lots of options.
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