mazie
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| posted on 22/3/24 at 09:57 PM |
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Raw Striker rebuild
Evening all..
Rebuilding Bi22le's old Striker. It's stripped to the chassis and had a cage fitted (by me) for track day use. I've made a few minor
reinforcements at key locations and now at the seat mounts
Currently they are bolts through holes in the chassis but I'd prefer to weld up the holes in the box and weld in threaded bosses. How have you
guys fixes your seats?
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=20240322_214542.jpg
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mazie
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| posted on 22/3/24 at 11:46 PM |
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On another point, who has had a used chassis blasted ? Would you recommend welding up rivers holes to stop the chassi being filled with shot, does it
happen? there are typically lots so bit of time but if worth it I'd do it.
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peter030371
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| posted on 26/3/24 at 02:47 PM |
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My seat mounts through holes in the chassis cross member. 7 or 8 years later, several track days, half a dozen sprints and 1k road miles and when I
had the passenger seat out the other day they still looked fine to me. No sign of buckling, no corrosion, no issues. If I had the chance I would of
welded in threaded tubes just for neatness but my chassis came freshly powder coated and I wasn't about to start messing it up. I only used M8
bolts (times 3 per seat at the front) so the holes are not to big.
My chassis had all the previous rivet holes welded up by the previous owner before it was re-powder coated. Trying to drill panels to match holes
would be a nightmare, best start with a clean finish and drill new holes in the panels on the car IMHO
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JimSpencer
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| posted on 27/3/24 at 08:45 AM |
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Hi
Just in case it helps and I have no idea the Right or Wrong approach, I've re-done the chassis on my Striker a couple of times and the method I
used was:-
Blast it as it came after everything stripped off, didn't weld up any of the holes, just gave it a good shake afterwards to get the majority
out..
Fix whatever needed fixing..
Re-powder coat, again with no rivet holes blocked up, just bolts in anything threaded.
Did the 'strip of really good quality masking tape and 'brass rubbing'' technique to transfer the hole locations to new sheet of
ally.
Align on chassis, use a 2mm drill to do the hole centers (ish..), taper bit to align and then run a 4mm through.
Good squirt of ACF50 (or similar)
Apply lots of rivets.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 27/3/24 at 02:56 PM |
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Welding in threaded bosses would be the best option as it will strengthen that area rather than weaken it. Another option may be to weld square nuts
over the existing holes, just have a scrap bolt in to stop weld splatter damaging the thread.
Unless your seats are made of cast iron, even in a crash I don't think they really load up the chassis. I was in a big crash (40mph) in a car
with a 15mm plywood floor and the seats were simply bolted through that with 8.8 M8's and penny washers. It didn't even cause the slightest
damage to the wood.
I have more concern of people thoughtlessly drilling big holes through their chassis and weakening it. One of the crappy kits I had, the previous
"builder" had drilled a stupid 12mm hole right through the upper chassis tube, just to bolt down the scuttle! rather than correctly welding
on a tab to bolt through, where an M5 would have been sufficent.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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mazie
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| posted on 31/3/24 at 11:08 PM |
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Thanks all for comments. I've been busy these days few days so catching up on works.
A- the same panels are going back on so same rivet holes to be used. Where rivnuts were weak or suspect drilled them out for new ones. I've cut
some holes to remove as many old fixings as possible without going postal, welding back in to solidify. I've replaced as few rivet holes in the
centre tunnel for welded tabs to secure brake pipes etc and welded up a good few holes. Decided to order a load of silicon bungs for holes yet to be
re-rivnutted and as many rivet holes as I can
Don't fancy a chassis full of blast material although ibgues it can be blown out. Cage is in. I've added 9/16 mounts for crutch straps a
few inches forward of the lateral belt mounts..decided to weld in 1/2 fittings in the 1" tube for seat mounts. All said it's looking ok.
REALLY struggled to find anyone that wants to, or can blast and powder coat the chassis around Coventry, bonkers really but a lot of smaller firms
have closed down here and the big boys either don't want to deal with the one-off jobs or can't be arsed to get back to my numerous call and
emails. Fully stripping, primer and paint is a soal destroying prospect! Anyone else have the Raw Striker front tunnel connected to the bulk head by
0.8mm steel sheet? The 15mm box finishes at the gear selector.
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mazie
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| posted on 7/12/24 at 09:59 AM |
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Checked all the wish bones for cracks etc and so far all good
L so these have been blasted, zinc primed and powder coated.
I didn't want to blast and powder the rocker needle roller as they are good and the oven would of done no good so decided to strip and 2k Paint,
I could of got away with repainting as they were ok'ish but glad I did. Cracks along welds on both sides.
 
Description
 
Description
Apart from that it's getting there slowly. Wil add some more photos up soon..
[Edited on 7/12/24 by mazie]
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40inches
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| posted on 7/12/24 at 12:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mazie
Evening all..
Rebuilding Bi22le's old Striker. It's stripped to the chassis and had a cage fitted (by me) for track day use. I've made a few minor
reinforcements at key locations and now at the seat mounts
Currently they are bolts through holes in the chassis but I'd prefer to weld up the holes in the box and weld in threaded bosses. How have you
guys fixes your seats?
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=20240322_214542.jpg
Seats mounted as in the first example, but with 5mm plates to strengthen the holes.
 
Brake line
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