Barkalarr
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| posted on 13/4/25 at 09:23 AM |
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Hayabusa Electrical Help Needed
Need some electronics help.
My coolant temp sender is causing me some problems.
I’ve made my own loom so I can put my gen 2 engine into a car. ECU has been flashed so the ECT fan comes on a 95 degrees. All seems to be running
ok, the the coolant fan is refusing to switch on.
No errors from the healtech diagnostics plugging into the loom.
According to the wiring diagram, there’s a shared black / brown wire which is a reference ground, and a blue / black wire which goes to the ECU black
plug pin 10.
Can anyone tell me how the ECT sender actually works and how to test it?
I’ve tried getting a resistance across the two wires but this doesn’t return anything using a volt meter when plugged in - when not plugged in I can
get resistance across it. Dunk it in a cup of boiling water and the resistance changes.
I’m only getting resistance across the blue / black wire to the chassis earth.
When the temp goes up, the resistance goes down (as I would expect)
I’m getting 0.5v across the two ECT sender wires, not a resistance when using the volt meter?
How can i test the ECT and the wiring?
It’s intermittently working as it should (I.e turning the fan on and off correctly)
I’m using the K line from the SDS plug to “can bus” the ECU information to my AIM digital dashboard, and the data on the dashboard is correctly
displaying correct temperature in degrees etc.
I think the sender is a pull up resistor, but I don’t know how to check this?
I’m a trained electronics engineer but very rusty as I did my training over 30 years ago.
Any ideas?
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 13/4/25 at 02:14 PM |
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many sensors will 'float high' (think 10k pull up resistor), and pull down (nominal 0v) when active. a multimeter is incredibly difficult/
virtually impossible for testing this.
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