ash_hammond
|
| posted on 16/6/26 at 06:29 PM |
|
|
Do I need spacers?
I’ve swapped my wheels a while back (around 2019), and the car hasn’t been on the road since.
My MAC#1 runs a Sierra rear end with drum brakes. Originally, I built the car with 15” Team Dynamics wheels and 195/50R15 tyres on the rear.
I was then offered a straight swap for a set of 13” Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels, running 205/60R13 R888s on the rear and 195/60R13 R888s on the
front. The fronts are fine, but the rears are causing an issue. The wheels came off another MAC#1.
The rear wheels fit onto the drums perfectly and everything bolts up nicely. However, when I come to fit the centre caps, the driveshaft protrudes
about 2mm too far and prevents the cap from clipping into place.
Has anyone come across this before, or know what might be causing it? I’m assuming the wheels should fit correctly given that they came from another
MAC#1.
My car has been on the road for a while and my the grey matter is not helping me, just a hobby that I am trying to get back into and remember.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
|
|
|
|
|
JAG
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 06:48 AM |
|
|
A problem I've never encountered before.
I think I'd just run the car without the centre caps - which I guess is not what you want to hear but I'd rather do that than fit wheel
spacers. Just my opinion. I can't think of a compelling reason. I just don't like wheel spacers 
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
|
|
|
Slater
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 06:57 AM |
|
|
Somewhere on the rim the offset should be marked, I believe correct offset with Sierra MAC#1 is ET38. Think my 15" ProRace 1.2's have this
on the rim edge.
Do the tyres look OK in the rear arches? If so I'd just leave them as is.
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
|
|
|
ash_hammond
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 08:11 AM |
|
|
Aesthetically, for me the car looks incomplete, so I want to try and find a sensible solution, so it looks finished, either by getting these wheels to
work or different centre caps.
When I built the car, these are non-ford remanufactured drive shafts, so there could be some tolerance differences here. I would say the drive shafts
are 2mm to long. A quick but it feels a bit crude, I could remove a couple of mm before i get near the threads.
I do agree with @Slater, ET38 for a MAC#1 feels the correct number, I did give the wheels a wash off last night and I could not find any thing.
I'm going to look again.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 09:34 AM |
|
|
Just get some new caps 3D printed?
https://www.fixmystreet.com/
|
|
|
Slimy38
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 12:45 PM |
|
|
Without knowing about the hardware itself, I wanted to ask about the nut itself? It seems awfully close to the ends of the threads. I realise
it's nyloc rather than castellated, so might not need that much thread, but that seems like it's only just on?
And the reason I ask is because of the curve of the centre cap, if the nut was two or three turns tighter would that allow the centre cap to fit? Even
with the driveshaft end protruding?
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 12:47 PM |
|
|
Have you checked to see if there's any alternative centre for the Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels ?
May be the simplest way forward (less hassle than getting the drive shafts out to trim the ends off).
https://teamdynamicsmotorsport.com/shop/accessories/wheel-centre-caps/
[Edited on 17-6-26 by nick205]
|
|
|
ash_hammond
|
| posted on 17/6/26 at 03:17 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Without knowing about the hardware itself, I wanted to ask about the nut itself? It seems awfully close to the ends of the threads. I realise
it's nyloc rather than castellated, so might not need that much thread, but that seems like it's only just on?
And the reason I ask is because of the curve of the centre cap, if the nut was two or three turns tighter would that allow the centre cap to fit? Even
with the driveshaft end protruding?
I see your point from the picture. Its been like that ever since 2006, there does not appear to be any slop in the assembly. If i could tighten the
nut more, it would make the issue worse as that would draw the thread out more. Its the tip of the drive shaft thats hitting the cap.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
|
|
|
gremlin1234
|
| posted on 18/6/26 at 08:22 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Just get some new caps 3D printed?
I agree 3d printed caps should work, or alternatively print spacer tubes and use with the original caps.
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 18/6/26 at 01:31 PM |
|
|
Looking at the Team Dynamics center caps (on their website)...
https://teamdynamicsmotorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/09/TD-Custom-generic-centre-cap-2-copy-300x300.jpg
Could you enlarge the center hole on the rear to go over the driveshaft/nut?
|
|
|
ash_hammond
|
| posted on 18/6/26 at 04:23 PM |
|
|
Thanks for all the replies folks. I'm going to double check all the other clearances and if everything looks fine. These look like a winner and
avoid nasty spacers.
Deep Caps
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
|
|
|
.JPG)
