MustangSix
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 02:14 AM |
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Shifter extension
I needed to move the shifter back on my T-5. I didn't like the usual options, so I fabbed this up last weekend.
I welded an extension of the shifter rod to the shift block, retaining the detents in the old shift box. The extension comes thru the core plug in
the back of the shifter box. It has a grommet to seal it.
I welded up a platform to bolt to the shifter box. On top of the platform is bolted an old Mazda shifter turret which has been cuto open to clear the
new rod. I removed the shift block and made a clevis to fit the lower shift lever. That fits to a rod which goes forward to the shift rod extension
and is attached by a universal. The shifter has a metal cover over the side which is not installed in this picture.
It all bolts on, is very serviceable, and is pretty smooth. Throws are pretty fast and easy to use. And it all fits under the tunnel sheetmetal. I
moved the shifter back over 9", but any length could work.
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nick205
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 07:11 AM |
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nice job Mustang, it looks better than most other designs I've seen.
Nick
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Dale
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 02:27 PM |
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Just what I am looking for. Do you have any other pics of it as I need to move the shifter on my t5 back about that far as well.
Also are you still looking at using the split windshield?
Dale
Thanks
Dale
my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road
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alfasudsprint
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 04:29 PM |
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Mustang,
any particular reason you put a uni joint in the centre?
Tim
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MustangSix
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 04:48 PM |
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There's a bigger closeup image at http://fordsix.com/images/Shifter.jpg
On this setup you have to use a universal because while the shifter handles leans, the shift rod has to rotate. Simply using a clevis at each end
would creat a bind and make the shift action stiff. On OEM setups that have the same design, they incorporate a poly or rubber bushing to mitigate
the binding (see BMW or 2005 Mustang shifters).
When you do a simple rod like this between shifter handles, the action is in the same plane, so no binding between the clevises.
But packaging that kind of setup is tough to keep inside the tunnel. Mine ends up at the same height, just further back.
Dale, I haven't finished the split screen yet. I'm trying to see if I can incorporate a Duval style center pillar.
[Edited on 22/6/05 by MustangSix]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 06:52 PM |
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Did you build in an interlock for reverse?
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MustangSix
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 06:55 PM |
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The detents are still in place inside the original shifter box. It shifts as normal.
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quattromike
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 09:02 AM |
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i found when i made my box extention that there wasn't allot of room for the propshaft hardy splicer . it was close but it fits:
 
Rescued attachment PC090048_75%.jpg
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NS Dev
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 09:13 AM |
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I had the same trouble Quattro!
I did have a huge prop off my old rally car, but the caterham prop I have now is much better on clearance. (with the big prop I had to grind down the
ford bellcrank to stop it hitting the UJ!!!)
PS, Quattromike, I see you have stepped the top plate of your extension down, and ground off the lip around the edge of the lever mount plate. This
means the level will be a couple of mm lower than std and the shift throw will be a bit longer, which you really don't want. On mine, the plate
is level all the way forward and the lever plate spaced up very slightly (enough to clear the lip around it) which gives a quicker and nicer shift,
just worth pointing out.
[Edited on 23/6/05 by NS Dev]
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MustangSix
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 12:24 PM |
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I was concerned about clearance. You'll notice that the shift rod angles up a little. That gives me a little more room underneath. The
propshaft and u-joint clear by about 3/4" at the closest point.
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