rayward
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 10:30 AM |
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TRE Locknuts
Can anyone tell me what size and thread the locknuts are for mk2 escort metric rack???
and possibly where to get them from?.
cheers
Ray
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Peteff
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 11:24 AM |
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D you mean the locknuts on the steering rack. They are the same as Sierra ones and are available from Ford dealers about 50p each.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 28/9/05 at 07:56 AM |
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They are M14. Available from any fastenings place for a few pence. 
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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rayward
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 09:00 AM |
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thanks for the info.
Ray
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Steve Hnz
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 09:25 AM |
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A handy wee tip I probably picked up off here, get some 12mm Stainless nuts & get them bored & threaded to 14mm, they look far neater on the
tie rods than a 14mm nut & are still plenty strong for this application.
HTH Cheers, Steve.
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907
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 09:58 AM |
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I did a similar thing on my top suspension b/j.
Bored an S/S M16 and taped it M18 fine.
Your right Steve, much neater.
see pic
Paul G
 
Rescued attachment lock-nut-m18-s.jpg
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Rorty
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 05:48 AM |
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907, was that pic taken pre camber set-up? The TRE seems to stick out quite far.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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907
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 08:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
907, was that pic taken pre camber set-up? The TRE seems to stick out quite far.
Hi Rorty,
Yes, it is an old pic, taken with the wheel vertical (i.e. no camber).
The threaded boss is 40mm long with the tre screwed in 31mm, so 9mm to go.
However, I made the w/bones a while ago to the book dims and now I have
driven the car I find I have very little self centering of the steering.
I don't agree with massive toe out / low tyre pressure to cure this,
so I will probably remake the top w/bones and make adjustments for caster.
This would be an opportunity to make adjustments for camber as well. On final
setup I would like the tre to be flush with the end of the threaded boss.
I would welcome your suggestions on the amount I would need to move the boss
to achieve this, bearing in mind it's not a race car, and tyre wear is a consideration.
Cheers, Paul G
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Rorty
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 08:43 AM |
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If I understand your request correctly, I normally leave half the jam nut's width of thread between the nut itself and the end of the threaded
section of the stud. I see though, you have used a full nut and not a thin jam nut, so, for an 18mm thread, I would leave a tad over 4mm of thread
showing after the nut.
The whole idea behind a jam nut is to provide a locking device while allowing as much male thread as possible to remain inside the female thread.
However, if you meant how much I would recommend moving the threaded sleeve/camber adjuster rearwards in relation to your current one to attain more
caster, then I would have to say I'm not sure in terms of longitudinal mm.
I don't have a copy of The Book, so I can't quickly draw it up for you either. I would still aim for around 5.5-6 degrees for a car of
that type, weight and size.
If you send me your set-up data, I'll gladly draw it up for you.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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907
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 12:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
If I understand your request correctly, I normally leave half the jam nut's width of thread between the nut itself and the end of the threaded
section of the stud. I see though, you have used a full nut and not a thin jam nut, so, for an 18mm thread, I would leave a tad over 4mm of thread
showing after the nut.
The whole idea behind a jam nut is to provide a locking device while allowing as much male thread as possible to remain inside the female thread.
However, if you meant how much I would recommend moving the threaded sleeve/camber adjuster rearwards in relation to your current one to attain more
caster, then I would have to say I'm not sure in terms of longitudinal mm.
I don't have a copy of The Book, so I can't quickly draw it up for you either. I would still aim for around 5.5-6 degrees for a car of that
type, weight and size.
If you send me your set-up data, I'll gladly draw it up for you.
Hi again
Just to clarify, would you say I need to end up with (after setting caster) "a tad over 4mm of thread showing" at A or B. see pic. (another
pic to follow)
 
Rescued attachment A-OR-B.jpg
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907
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 12:45 PM |
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And again
Bellow are pics from "the book"
I'm thinking that for caster I should deduct from "102" and increase "121" by an amount to give me the 5.5 - 6 deg;
and change 175 to give me the 4mm of thread that you suggest.
As you can see I have made the curved versions using the dims off the angled ones.
Cheers, Paul G
 
Rescued attachment wb-book-dims-2s.jpg
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Rorty
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 09:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
If I understand your request correctly, I normally leave half the jam nut's width of thread between the nut itself and the end of the threaded
section of the stud. I see though, you have used a full nut and not a thin jam nut, so, for an 18mm thread, I would leave a tad over 4mm of thread
showing after the nut.
The whole idea behind a jam nut is to provide a locking device while allowing as much male thread as possible to remain inside the female thread.
However, if you meant how much I would recommend moving the threaded sleeve/camber adjuster rearwards in relation to your current one to attain more
caster, then I would have to say I'm not sure in terms of longitudinal mm.
I don't have a copy of The Book, so I can't quickly draw it up for you either. I would still aim for around 5.5-6 degrees for a car of
that type, weight and size.
If you send me your set-up data, I'll gladly draw it up for you.
Hi again
Just to clarify, would you say I need to end up with (after setting caster) "a tad over 4mm of thread showing" at A or B. see pic.
(another pic to follow)
Definitely "A".
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Rorty
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 09:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
And again
Bellow are pics from "the book"
I'm thinking that for caster I should deduct from "102" and increase "121" by an amount to give me the 5.5 - 6 deg;
and change 175 to give me the 4mm of thread that you suggest.
As you can see I have made the curved versions using the dims off the angled ones.
Cheers, Paul G
Yes, (asuming "102" is the rear of the wishbone).
I just read the "5.5-6 degrees". That should be 5.5-8 degrees. Depending on what engine and weight you have over the front axle, I'd
dial in quite a bit of castor for good self-centring.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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907
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 11:14 PM |
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Thanks Rorty for your advise, I'll bear it in mind when I remake the w/bones.
The Lotus 907 is a lightweight, all ally, wet liner engine, and is mounted well back
in the chassis, behind the front axle line, so I'll go for more rather than less caster.
(does that make my car a middy?)
Thanks again, Paul G
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