Mark Allanson
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| posted on 23/1/03 at 10:28 PM |
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Guilding the lily
I am going to make my steering rack mounts this weekend. Are the book plans up to the job or can they be improved?
When doing modifications, I always try to make additions do two jobs, my idea is to stiffen the front suspension brackets at the same time using
crossbracing on the FU's and these crossbracings support the rack as shown in the really professional CAD drawing shown below
My questions to the panel are
1, will this all be over engineering?
2, will this foul my newly acquired 2.0i Pinto?
3, will it restrict air flow through the rad?
4, will it bugger something else I haven't thought of yet!?
All comments/advice gratefully received
Thanks
Mark
 
Rescued attachment DCP_0326Steering.jpg
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Simon
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| posted on 24/1/03 at 09:04 AM |
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Mark,
I don't know what rack you're using, but for my Sierra (modded) rack, I welded a piece of 2" x 1" between lower front rails with "tags" welded
on (front 1/8" plate).
I popped a quick doodle into archive under "rack mounting"
Hope it's of some help!!
ATB
Simon
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Jasper
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| posted on 24/1/03 at 10:40 AM |
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To strenghten the rack supports I just welded a piece of 3/4 tube from the top inside of one diagonally down to the chassis rail underneath the other.
You only need to support one as the rack will then support the other.
I think there are some pics in my section
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kingr
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| posted on 24/1/03 at 12:41 PM |
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Obviously I can't say for sure, but it could be a little tricky to actually get the connection to the rack with those bits of steel in the way. Just
something to watch out for.
Kingr
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 25/1/03 at 06:30 PM |
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Couldn't make out the pictures in Jaspers Photo's but seemed a good idea so I did this today
 
Rescued attachment DCP_0468sml.jpg
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cymtriks
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| posted on 25/1/03 at 06:59 PM |
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FU diagonals
Extra diagonals around the front suspension area are a good idea. If you've seen some of my earlier postings then you'll know that I've done a
proper stress analysis of the chassis which shows how to decrease the number of tubes, reduce the weight and double the torsional stiffness. A lot of
this improvement comes from properly triangulating the front. As standard the lowcost chassis is actually no better, weight for weight, than a simple
X braced ladder frame in 14 gauge 2 x 4 RHS.
Adding diagonals between FU1/LB and FU2/LA, a V brace from the bottom ends of LA and LB to the centre of LC and welding in a steel panel between LD
and E (optional in the book) will significantly improve the chassis.
If you want the full list of mods I'll e-mail them to you.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 25/1/03 at 09:25 PM |
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Cymtrics,
A list of modifications, would be a great help.
Does it make a huge difference if you use some mods and not others? I am sure I have gone too farin some areas to make radical alterations now (about
to drop the motor in!)
mark@crofthooper.fsnet.co.uk
mark@allenautobodies.fsnet.co.uk
Thanks
Mark
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fastenuff
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| posted on 26/1/03 at 08:26 AM |
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have a look at the "Strength-willit be enough" post and i think cymtricks has posted his txt at
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/acwsj/help/questions.htm
ingmar
Ingmar
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Jasper
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| posted on 26/1/03 at 12:00 PM |
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That's exactly what I did.....
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 26/1/03 at 12:31 PM |
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Jasper,
Spot on!!
Thanks,
Mark
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 26/1/03 at 12:37 PM |
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Jasper,
Spot on!!
Thanks,
Mark
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