JoelP
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 09:31 AM |
|
|
magnet on a rod?
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
|
|
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 09:55 AM |
|
|
A magnet on a rod wouldn't be any good as the passage it has dropped into has a sharp 90° bend in it. A magnet on a wire on the other
hand...
Where can I buy a small magnet? I have never bought a magnet before.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 12:52 PM |
|
|
Try one of these 
quote:
This is not a magnet for the inexperienced. These can break fingers if a mistake is made. This is absolutely the strongest, most dangerous product we
carry
Seriously though, they have some smaller Neodymium magnets there which will still be bloomin powerful, something like
this, don't know if there's a UK
equivalent
[Edited on 16/11/05 by ChrisGamlin]
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 02:48 PM |
|
|
The magnet doesn't need to be strong, just strong enough to lift the lost part, not the entire engine!
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
jimgiblett
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 03:13 PM |
|
|
You could try a speedo pickup magnet the ones I got from ETB for a mates car were very strong for their size and only a couple of a quid or so incl
postage.
If you suspect the head or cams I have a spare complete 00/01 head which is in good nick which I havent thrown to the ebay hounds yet.
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 04:11 PM |
|
|
I bought some from an ebay shop earlier this year, they were cheap enough and arrived quickly. You could buy a pickup tool and take the end off.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 04:55 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Excess valve clearance wouldn't cause low compression but not enough valve clearance might. I tried it with a sheet of paper yesterday and the
gaps are small to non-existant. I have bought a set of feeler gauges today and will measure the clearance this evening.
If the valve clearance is too small then when the engine is hot and the clearance shrinks, the valves may not be closing fully, causing a slight
leak.
I hope that's what it is cause I don't want to remove the cylinder head if I can help it.
If the valve clearances have got too small this is a symptom of a worn valve seat...
Usually the cam lobes wear and the clearances get larger... the reason they get smaller is the valve seat wears through the hardening and then forms a
pocket where the valve seats... in which case you have more problems than replacing shims...
You may not have got to this stage yet, but these clearances and the low compression you have described on cyl 3 certainly make me think..
Set the shims by all means, but I think you should be thinking about taking the head off and having a proper look fairly soon...
Paper is no good for checking clearances as it is too soft to push through the gap, however you now have the feelers so know what the situation
actually is...
|
|
|
stevebubs
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 05:07 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
I didn't have all the spark plugs removed. I'll try that tomorrow. More importantly, I didn't have the throttle open, it was just
at idle!
The reason I was testing the compression was that I failed my SVA on Thursday on emissions, specifically HC too high but CO OK. It idles quite
roughly. someone suggested that it might be misfiring or not burning all the fuel and that I should test the compression. So I did. I'll do
it properly tomorrow.
Another, simpler, cause of a high HC level is an exhaust joint not sealed properly....
[Edited on 16/11/05 by stevebubs]
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 07:33 PM |
|
|
mhh
if i was in your pos i would totaly dismantle the engine.
Its the only way that you can be sure and trust on your engine.
its now the compression what low, who says that if you rebuild its solved?
and after that maybe the gearbox says goodbye?
wy not do the complete service?
make an list of the status of every bad part get the prices and see if its worth it?
offcourse you cant let that piece over there what if it touches the spring?
it will damage the spring..and then you loose the valve and then you have REAL engine damage...
Take of the head and look at the valve sittings? i think that your engine has been running lean.. and then the valve's get hot and they start to
wear...
and then you loose compression..
i would take an complete look at the pistons and rings etc. wy?
what if your valves are damaged you repair then you do compress and you an slight improved than you can dismantle it again...
just buy the hayness or go to work and take the engine to a specialist..
if the engine isn't reliable the hole car isnt'
just my 2 euro cents
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 16/11/05 at 09:27 PM |
|
|
OK. A magnet on a wire got the shim. PLaced the shim into its valve and refitted the cams and chain. Turned the engine through 2 revs by hand and
checked the cam positions. All OK. Checked the clearances again. 7 are better, 6 are worse. 5 of the valves were not touched at all and yet 4 of
them have worse clearance than before. How can this be? All the shims that I replaced are smaller than they were so the clearances should go up,
no? They all seated nicely and the buckets slid in smoothly. I even made sure that the buckets were only taken off 1 by 1 so that they went back in
the same place. Even the bolts for the cam holders went back in the same place.
I turned the engine over on the starter motor a few times to see if this migh seat them all a bit. It had no effect.
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 09:26 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
Another, simpler, cause of a high HC level is an exhaust joint not sealed properly....
[Edited on 16/11/05 by stevebubs]
Before I went to SVA, I checked the exhaust for leaks. I could feel exhaust gas leaking from where one of the manifold pipes met the cylinder head.
I replaced the bolt with a slightly shorter one and this cured the blowing. There were no leaks that I could feel elsewhere. Is this a good enough
test for exhaust sealing?
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 10:10 AM |
|
|
I've just spoken to a repair shop who guessed without looking at it that it might cost around £120 labour plus parts to recondition my cylinder
head if I take the head in to them. Is this about the right kind of price?
How much would a bare 1998/99 R1 engine cost me if I were to simply replace it? I don't want to get into the game of replacing bit one by one
until I have a new engine.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 11:53 AM |
|
|
The price sounds OK but you'd need to check what parts were likely to be needed otherwise it could get expensive. A bare engine is still going
to cost you £7-800 minimum Id think, but you could offset that by selling all the bits from your current engine, I did that with my knackered blade
engines and salvaged several hundred quid from them.
Why not just buy Jim's head off him though, Im sure it will be cheaper?
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 12:58 PM |
|
|
Is the 00/01 head the same as/interchangable with the 98/99? Doesn't the 00/01 have the Air Induction System pipe work and things? I suppose
it might be a simpler option.
|
|
|
ChrisGamlin
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 02:02 PM |
|
|
Im not certain they are the same so get confirmation first, but Im fairly sure. The AIS is only 4 pipes coming out just below the exhaust ports, they
are easily blocked up and wouldnt affect the running on your ECU etc.
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 02:35 PM |
|
|
Bucket and shim valve-gear tends to suffer more from valve recession and stretch, as opposed to wear. Hence the reason why your clearances have closed
up!
I would be re-shimming your valves to the top-side of the tolerance and try your compression test again, maybe then inserting a bit more oil than you
were doing into the bores as R1s tend to be built quite loosely. If you don't see any change after inserting the oil, maybe your valves are
passing then. £120 to have your valves lapped back in isn't too bad, although it's something you can do yourself whilst sitting in front
of the telly on an eve! At least then you'll know that it's been done right, and yes, you may get another head for less than that, but
who's to say it isn't in any better condition than yours unless you drop the valves out???
If you do decide to lap them in yourself, don't buy valve grinding paste from a motor factors as it's pants - go to a proper old-skool
tool place and buy some medium and fine Carborundum paste as it's a lot better quality.....
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
OX
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 02:50 PM |
|
|
for the sack of another hour i'd deffo try reshimming it again,you might of done something wrong the first time,,whats it cost you so far,,maybe
£20 and a bit of time
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 02:51 PM |
|
|
So why would the clearance on some of the valves go down if smaller shims were used? especially on valves where the shims and buckets were not
removed?
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 04:09 PM |
|
|
When you measure the clearance on each valve, is the cam positioned right in the centre of the heel? (i.e. minimum lift?)
If not, your results won't be truly repeated. Or if you removed the cams, are they in the right way round and torqued down correctly? All of
these can make a massive difference....
I would reshim the valves again as mentioned, then check, check again and check again as your time is free!
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
OX
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 04:14 PM |
|
|
maybe you checked them wrong or put it together wrong or put the wrong size shim in,,theres no other way it can do it....unless the valve heads are
about to drop off
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 04:45 PM |
|
|
sounds like you had the cams on part lift...
There is a specific engine position for half the cylinders and another position for the rest...
If you dont use those positions then you will have inaccuracies...
Make sure you micrometer the shims, and not vernier them...
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 06:45 PM |
|
|
I measured the clearances as described in the Haynes manual. With the engine cold, rotate the crank until the inlet and exhaust lobes point away from
each other by an equal amount. This is at TDC on the compression stroke. There is even a marker on the cam and cam cover so that you can align them
for cylinder 1. The cams are in right (on a 5 valve cylinder it's hard to get them wrong). They are fully tightened up. I measured the
clearances using a new set of feeler gauges and I did it twice on each valve to make sure.
The shims are numbered according to their size. Perhaps they are worn. Perhaps they are not seated correctly. I lifted all the shims again one by
one after I'd swapped them to make sure the correct number shim was fitted.
Finally I understand why so many people advertise their kit for sale when 99% complete.
|
|
|
OX
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 08:16 PM |
|
|
and your sure you havnt got the cam sprocket one or more teeth out,,i just cant see the gaps changing unless you have
[Edited on 17/11/05 by OX]
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 08:25 PM |
|
|
I've just done a compression tests and the results are a bit better than before. All the cylinders are now in the range 145 to 155 psi with the
best one beng the cylinder that was worst.
The cams were 1 tooth out when I first put the chain back on. I saw this after turning the crank through 2 revs. The error crept in when tightening
the chain tensioner. I fixed this before measuring the clearances.
is 150 psi too low when the book says 206? I've had some people say yes and others no.
|
|
|
OX
|
| posted on 17/11/05 at 09:48 PM |
|
|
if there roughly all the same i wouldnt worry about it .
try the car see how it feels .
i wouldnt waste any money stripping it down,you could strip it all down and find nothing,you could strip it all down find something and then something
else fails.
|
|
|
