GaryM
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 05:53 PM |
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ST bodywork - trial fit.
Even though I still haven't finished my chassis I couldn't resist trial fitting some of my ST body parts.
Both the nosecone and the rear mudguards require some cutting to fit but once done they fit like gloves.
[img][/img]
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gary gsx
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 06:34 PM |
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Looking good how long did you have to wait for delivery? how much was it? 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 09:45 PM |
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Don't fit your scuttle until you've fitted the bonnet.
Nose first - like you've done, then bonnet and then scuttle.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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chrisf
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 12:26 AM |
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quote:
Nose first - like you've done, then bonnet and then scuttle.
I could not disagree more  There is a very specific place for the scuttle on the chassis--right at the chassis bend. If this is not properly fitted
at the chassis bend, the whole bodywork--in my opinion--looks off. If the nosecone is 1/4" too far forwards, who cares? On the other hand, if
the scuttle is a 1/4" off, it will be noticed.
So I suggest fitting the scuttle first, then the bonnet (if you have it made) then the nosecone.
--Chris
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Avoneer
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 01:31 AM |
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Yeah, I thought this, but the ST Nose has a small cutout that sits over the top front chassis rail at each side.
The scuttle can sit approx 5mm in front of the bend in the chassis or 5mm behind and still looks fine.
I started with my ST scuttle, then bonnet then nose, and it all went to cock.
Normal noses don't matter as much as they just sit wherever.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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GaryM
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| posted on 4/12/05 at 09:46 AM |
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I'm going to make my own bonnet so I guess I'll need to fix both the nose and scuttle fairly securely so I can form the bonnet curves
using the scuttle and nose lips as formers.
My ST scuttle doesn't actually fit the chassis were it should. It is about 1" too narrow and will require some serious stretching to fit.
Still I was warned about ST quality!!
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rob126
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| posted on 5/12/05 at 04:10 PM |
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a bit off topic... but do ST have a site please?
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iank
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| posted on 5/12/05 at 04:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rob126
a bit off topic... but do ST have a site please?
http://www.stuart-taylor.co.uk/
but they are currently trying to sell their locost business.
http://www.totalkitcar.com/tkc_article_963.php
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 10:18 AM |
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Heh heh ST bodywork!!!
always funny I suppose!
Yes I have it too.
Did your rear wings have any lip left on them once it was sanded back enough for them to sit right???
Had to build mine up with more matting. front cycle wings are she-ite and not going on the car.
Nose is ok.
Bonnet is a big joke, distorted down one side so it wont sit over the chassis rail, ah well, only takes more hours to sort. Spent 3 hours wasting my
life last night with the front cycle wings.
going to look into Luego possibilities, or speak to Westfield.........................Yes, I am quickly realising that you get what you pay for in
this game, and in several areas my car wouls have been cheaper if I had just gone to Caterham!
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GaryM
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 09:09 PM |
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I've trimmed the cut out portions of my rear arches all the way to the flanges and they are still going to need 'flexing' to close
up a 1/2 inch gap where the rear flange meets the side of the rear panel.
The problem seems to be that the mating face of the section that covers the top half of K1/K2 flange section is not parallel with the rest of the
flanges on the inner of the arch.
However, I'm willing to put up with this because I prefer the ST design to standard rear arches.
What was more dissapointing was how deformed the scuttle was. It has a noticeable dip in the top, bulge of the dash flange and is over 1/2 inch to
narrow!
I did email ST but got no reply. Maybe he didn't receive it? I have not bought from Ian before so I don't have any experience of what to
expect in the way of aftersales service plus living so far from his shop is always going to make returning stuff a chore.
[Edited on 7/12/05 by GaryM]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 08:50 PM |
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aftersales.........heh heh!!
I like the bodywork style too, hence why I bought it.
Yup my rear arches had the huge gap too.
You won't close up 1/2". I fettled mine for 1/2 day until the gap was 8mm ish. It just closed up at that (slightly cracked one arch)
I had to reform some of the lip on both arches with fresh grp, then sand back again.
it is a bitch to fit.
Mine is somewhere near now though, so persevere!
It does look okish when done, and so much nicer than the big fat lardy 7's to be fair!!
You're not the only one so don't worry!
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planetester
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 12:23 PM |
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My rear arches are sh1t too, once you have cut out the bit to clear the top rail,I dont know how anyone can fit them without cracking the gell coat,
with the back part fitting ok, there is 1/2" gap at the top rail front.
some piccys of how you modified yours would be very helpful
thanks
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02GF74
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 01:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by GaryM
Both the nosecone and the rear mudguards require some cutting to fit but once done they fit like gloves.
 yeah, the same could be said about fitting an oil drum as a nosecone
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 01:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by planetester
My rear arches are sh1t too, once you have cut out the bit to clear the top rail,I dont know how anyone can fit them without cracking the gell coat,
with the back part fitting ok, there is 1/2" gap at the top rail front.
some piccys of how you modified yours would be very helpful
thanks
They are fitted now so I can't really get any pics but I basically just attacked them with the air belt sander (powerfile type thing) wherever
they were too "proud" until they fitted with no more than an 8mm gap between the arch and the rear panel aluminium. Around the rollbar
mount plates and the inital part behind this the lip was sanded almost completely away, so I built it back up with some fresh matting and resin, and
then sanded it back again to a smooth surface. It's all hidden so doesn't matter too much I guess.....
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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chrisf
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 02:31 PM |
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NS Dev:
Do you have pictures of the end result? If I'm reading this correctly, I'm going to have a go at a similar process tonight. I'd be
nice to see what I should expect the results to be.
--Thanks, Chris
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planetester
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 10:52 PM |
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Hi NS Dev, are you saying that you cut off the attachment flange in the areas where you needed to remove material & then grafted it back on again
in the right place, is this possible, does the gell coat chip off at the edge,
when you get sold crap like this it really makes you feel like giving up, end of rant, sorry
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NS Dev
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 09:27 AM |
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Not exactly great is it!
I didn't cut the lip off as such, I belt sanded it back (as in sanding back the face of the 10mm lip) until the arch sat correctly (or nearly
correctly). When I realised the lip was getting to be only 1mm or so thick, I put on some further grp from the inside of the arch to rethicken it, let
it go off and then resanded it back again until it fitted.
Fortunately in my case the gelcoat seemed a touch thick on the flange corner so I got away with it without breaking through to the mat in any visible
areas.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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