ianr
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| posted on 23/12/05 at 11:16 PM |
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Starting an xFlow ..
I hope somebody can put my mind at rest, i am not sure if this is usual behaviour.
I have bought a built xflow striker, when i start here up after a week or so left in the garage i usually have trouble starting , it does seem that
nearly every other turn of the key i will here a strange noise similar to the noise of starting engine that is already running, then on the next shot
the starter motor tries then the next this noise and so on.
One thought was that the starter motor was going , the other thought was this may be pushing fuel on every other turn ??
Does this sound strange ???
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scutter
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 12:40 AM |
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Sounds like the starter isn't engaging with the flywheel properly, Mine has this problem because i left out the spacer/dustshield plate.
loosen the starter and push up towards the centre line of the crank, then tighten the bolts back up.
Hope this helps Dan.
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k33ts
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 01:09 AM |
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sounds like an xflow to me av u got choke
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ianr
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 01:53 AM |
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yes i have got a choke
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 08:59 AM |
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Sounds like an early Xflow with an inertia type starter motor. as already suggested take it off and check for wear on the teeth of the flywheel and
bendix. If all is OK clean the bendix and make sure its nice and free. It should throw out the bendix if you can connect a pair of jump leads to it
(just touch the positive to the battery) IIRC Xflow starter bendix's were modified to 10 teeth from 9 as this was a common problem
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 10:39 AM |
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Cclean and check the starter drive -- lubricate with very light lubricant eg WD40
While is off examine the ring gear -- 4 cylinder 4 stroke engines only come to rest in 2 postions 180 degrees apart so only 2 sections of the ring
gear take the majority of the wear.
Is the shim plate I place between the engine and bellhousing ?
Also is it a 3 bolt or 2 bolt starter mounting --- 2 bolt starters on kent engines cause no end of trouble.
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johnjulie
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 05:51 PM |
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If it's fitted with twin 40 DCOEs, starting can take a little getting used to. You need to pump the accelerator about 12 times if it's not
been run for a while to fill the carbs with fuel. This acts like a choke. If the problem only happens when the cars not been used for a while, this
sounds like your problem. My Caterham does the same thing. Does it start OK once you have initially started it?
The inertia type starter has 9 teeth, the later pre-engaged type has 10 teeth. The Kent engine has 3 bolt fastening not 2, as used on the Leyland Mini
etc. They also have different sizes between holes.
Wear can occur on both the bendix and the ring gear. If you remove the starter and turn the engine over, you can see the ring gear teeth through the
hole.
Also if the ignition is quite advanced, you sometimes need to hold the accelerator down slightly after pumping.
Also, check out the thread on page 2, SELECTION AND TUNING OF WEBER CARBURETTORS. Has a section on cold starting.
Cheers John
[Edited on 28/12/05 by johnjulie]
[Edited on 28/12/05 by johnjulie]
[Edited on 28/12/05 by johnjulie]
[Edited on 28/12/05 by johnjulie]
JFDI
"Just F*****G Do It"
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ianr
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 06:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnjulie
Does it start OK once you have initially started it?
Yes once it has started and the engine is warm i do not get this behaviour when starting up. I turn the key then it slowly turns for struggling , then
half a second later kicks into life.
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ianr
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 06:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Is the shim plate I place between the engine and bellhousing ?
I am not sure what a shim plate is .
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 08:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ianr
Yes once it has started and the engine is warm i do not get this behaviour when starting up. I turn the key then it slowly turns for struggling , then
half a second later kicks into life.
If the weather is frrezing cold and you've got the correct oil in the engine (20W50) then it WILL be a pig to turn over on anything less than a
fully charged battery - and it won't be great then. It will be particularly bad if the compression ratio has been raised.
Now obviously I haven't seen the car, but if it's struggling when the weather is freezing and the engine's stone cold, but works OK
once it's warm, then I wouldn't worry.
I used my car last week, after it had been sitting in a cold garage for 2 weeks. It would barely turn over, but got there in the end (I
couldn't select a gear until the gearbox warmed up either!).
If you're in the mood, you could try a lighter oil and see if that makes a difference (my Haynes book says 10W/30 or 10W/50 for the x/flow).
Otherwise, put it in a warm garage and see how it starts then! 
David
[Edited on 28/12/05 by David Jenkins]
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ianr
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 08:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
It will be particularly bad if the compression ratio has been raised.
When a mate helped me replace the points and we had to find TDC he did remark on the compression was high.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 08:36 PM |
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Kent engine can be 2 or 3 bolt depends only on bell housing and gearbox type --- 3 bolt type was introduced on Cortina the 1500 because of problems
with jamming starters, but not used across the full range for example Mk2 Lotus Cortina usually have a 2 bolt.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 08:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ianr
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Is the shim plate I place between the engine and bellhousing ?
I am not sure what a shim plate is .
The shim plate is the thin metal plate between the engine and bellhousing, it provides exact location for the starter if left out it can cause
problems.
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johnjulie
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| posted on 31/12/05 at 09:27 PM |
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British Trident, the Crossflow Kent engine was introduced in Sept 67 with the MK 11 1300 & 1600 Cortinas using a 3 bolt starter. The Lotus Cortina
was a bored out 1500 engine, not the Kent engine.
Cheers John
JFDI
"Just F*****G Do It"
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