dave_w11
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 12:06 AM |
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Welding in garage affects lights in house
I'm told that while I'm welding the lights in the house flicker. So far I've only used the lowest 2 settings on my Clarke 151TE. My
chassis metal arrived a couple of days ago and I'm about to start welding on that, so will need to use higher power settings. I'm worried
that if it messes with the lights on the lower settings then I might end up burning something using the higher ones. Am I right to be worried or is
this normal? I wouldn't be suprised if the wiring in the house is a bit rubbish.
Thanks!
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JoelP
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 12:21 AM |
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there are several possible causes, number one in my book would be that your main tails (big leads to the consumer unit) are undersized, hence there is
a voltage drop when the welder sets off. Or bad connections, or just a shite board. Its always worth having a nice new board in, and its not too
expensive to upgrade to a modern one. And an rcd might save your life one day. 
you really want 16mm squared tails, and 10mm earth as a minimum. If the tails come through a cavity wall, they should be 25mm.
[Edited on 15/1/06 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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lexi
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 12:37 AM |
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Yeah best to rewire your house at 2 grand so you can build a sports car.
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lexi
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 12:37 AM |
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Yeah best to rewire your house at 2 grand so you can build a sports car.
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907
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 07:29 AM |
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My spot welder has the whole street flummoxed. 
Every 10 seconds the lights dim for 0.2 seconds.
Mind you, the short circuit current is 7000 amps 
Paul G
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graememk
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 08:41 AM |
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i understand that theres a 13amp socket in the bottom of a street light, maybe thats an option ?
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 12:39 PM |
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Just replaced a consumer unit at my brother's new house for around 60 quid...
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101863&ts=28665&id=82204
...if that's what the problem is.
Not sure how you replace your main tails if they're undersized though? Your electricity provider? Cost?
Chris.
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JoelP
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 04:26 PM |
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i said rewire the board, not the full house. As someone said, its about 60 for a new board. As for the tails, the electric board need to do it.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 05:15 PM |
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Mines does the same don't wory to much about it it's just the Inrush current (so I'm told) for the transformer. (although to be fair
it does annoy the wiffey.
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blueshift
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 06:44 PM |
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Mine used to do it in the old house. never caused a problem, 140A welder.
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 07:11 PM |
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Mine too, 170 amp. Switch the lights off, no problem. 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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dave_w11
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 07:12 PM |
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Thanks for the replies. I'll give it a go then and see what happens
Looks like it's probably worth replacing consumer unit anyway, especially when you get some free screwdrivers with it by the looks of things
I'm still living with me parents though so I'll have to ask me dad if he'll let me.
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02GF74
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 10:24 AM |
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switch the light off then ... but someone beat me to it.
I see my lights in the bck room flicker each time my fridge turns on; not worried about it.
If you cable to the mig is fat enought, then you should be fine. (make sure your house insurance is paid and valid)
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the_parson
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 09:21 PM |
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quote:
Every 10 seconds the lights dim for 0.2 seconds.
Hmm, the mystery of the Suffolk brown outs are finally solved. I'll phone you direct instead of calling Powergen next time there's a
powercut then Paul.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 10:00 PM |
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My Compressor flickers the lights when on full load, ie the Sandblasting Cabinet
The welder is simmilar, but not as bad.
Most sheds and garages are fed with only a 2.5mm feed and you get a nice volt drop over it when you are pulling a good load (plenty of Amps).
Nice if your consumer unit is in your garage... even better is if you can get your Leccy provider to put a 3 phase feed into your garage!
I am only on Single phase and its into the house first 
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 10:03 PM |
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Extremely unlikely if not impossible that they would supply 3 phase to a domestic premises. IMO
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907
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 10:25 PM |
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I have a 3 phase electric pole in my garden.
Anyone got a set of long jump leads?
Paul G
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 08:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Extremely unlikely if not impossible that they would supply 3 phase to a domestic premises. IMO
I asked my local electrickery company how much it would cost to bring 3-phase into my house (for a big lathe). Normally they take a 3-phase and
neutral supply along the pavement in front of most modern houses, dropping in alternate phases into each house. Sadly, I live in a cul-de-sac at the
end of the 'loop' so there was only 1 phase left in front of my house! To get the 3 phases installed would have meant paying for someone
to dig a trench across the road.
If I had access to the 3 phases I would only have to dig a trench along my drive, probably installed some trunking, up to a distribution board - the
running in of the 3-phase cable would have cost me around £300 - £400, which is comparable with the cost of a converter.
So, it is possible to get 3 phases in a house/garage, if you have the money! Lucky beggars like Paul would only have to pay for the termination point,
meter and a few yards of cable (but they do ask what you want it for, in case you're getting all industrial).
rgds,
David
[Edited on 17/1/06 by David Jenkins]
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 12:45 PM |
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I was under the impression that they would no way supply a domestic premises with 3 phase as the 440 volt supply would be more than you would normally
expect to find in these types of buildings.
Also there would be the problem of separation if more than one phase was used in the house wiring. i.e. two rings of sockets from two different phases
would need to have physical separation, to stop you touching a plug in one phase, and a plug in another phase, at the same time.
Etc etc and all cabling would have to be insulated to the standard of the highest voltage cable in the house. And this would include tv sky and phone.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 12:50 PM |
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There may be 440v across the phases, but it is only 3 different 240v supplies. I believe that the 3 phases could only be used to supply given
machinery via separate circuits, with only 1 phase used to feed the house distribution board.
You are correct about the added care needed due to the voltage differences involved - but you face just as much peril if your neighbour runs an
extension lead from his property into your garage!
I don't know the current legal position, but 10 years ago my local electricity supplier was more than happy to provide 3 phases, as long as I
put up the money.
I bought a converter...
David
[Edited on 17/1/06 by David Jenkins]
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JoelP
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 06:02 PM |
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Im sure you could ask them to put the 3 phase straight to the garage, and just run a single phase into the house, hence no need for the extra
precautions in the house.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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907
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 06:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
if your neighbour runs an extension lead from his property into your garage!
David
[Edited on 17/1/06 by David Jenkins]
Now there's an idea!
Don't most big welders run on just two phases?
Paul G
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andyharding
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 06:11 PM |
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I make all our lights and the neighbours lights flicker welding. Wouldn't worry about it!
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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