caber
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 posted on 17/1/06 at 10:31 PM |
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Propshaft
I have a two piece Capri propshaft and it looks like the back section is the right length however I can't figure how to dismantle the UJs and
put them back together it looks like the end caps are pressed in and rivited over, Is there a technique to this or do i have to resort to the saw the
two sections in half and stick them together technique?
TIA
Caber
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mookaloid
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 10:34 PM |
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The propshaft is a very dangerous lump of metal if it fails at speed 2" from your leg.
Get it sorted professionally is my advice
Cheers
Mark
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 10:49 PM |
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Several factors do repair kits complete with circlips to retain the new bearings, I made my own before I realised that the capri prop was within 8mm
of the optimal length (search my name with prop).
If in doubt about you welding capabilities or the suitabilities of the repair kits, buy a complete prop for about £140
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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robertwa
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 11:16 PM |
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I can't speak for the Capri shaft, but it sounds like you have the type which has non-rebuildable u-joints. Instead of circlips they press in
the end caps and swage the metal around the hole to prevent them coming out. Must be cheaper to produce that way. The u-joint is designed to be
non-serviceable. It may also be evident from the lack of a grease nipple. Unfortunately there is not much you can do yourself here.
Rob
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muzchap
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| posted on 17/1/06 at 11:25 PM |
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I'd give Bailey Morris a ring....
HERE
They are excellent, everything is custom made and balanced.
As Mookaloid said - why risk something spinning at that speed 2" from your ASS!
Just aint worth it :-)
You wouldn't scrimp on the brakes either would ya?
M
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mangogrooveworkshop
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 posted on 17/1/06 at 11:57 PM |
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Rescued attachment propshaft ouch.jpg
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Simon
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 12:13 AM |
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Yeah, like 6000 rpm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ATB
Simon
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clbarclay
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 12:44 AM |
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£140 sounds a little steep to me.
I paid about £80 (without delivery, as they were local) for my prop. which was custom made, balanced and fitted with circlips and grease nipples. All
new parts as well. Unfortunately I can't remeber the name of the company.
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JB
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 04:41 PM |
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Propshafts
The prop you describe has joints that are staked into place. Basically this means the metal is peened over to hold the uj in place. This is very
common on Ford shafts and other makes (Mercedes Sprinter and Japanese cars)
The joints can be replaced with the correct special hand tool which any propshaft firm will have.
When shortening a prop shaft you NEVER cut it in the middle and reweld it. It is always done at the ends. The shaft you have has friction welded
yokes. These can be shortend (I have done hundreds) but you really need to know the exact inside diameter of the tube and just where to turn a
stub.
Goto a prop specialist and get them to do the work for you.
John
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caber
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 06:25 PM |
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JB
WHat does the correct hand tool look like what is it called and where do I get one?
Caber:-)
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JB
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 06:44 PM |
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Propshaft Staking Tool
The tool to stake propshaft UJ`s looks like a big G cramp. It is held in a vice and takes a pair of hardened staking tools.
The staking tools are pieces of bar with the end turned down in diameter with 6 little pieces stuck out. Basically it wil reform the 6 staking points
in the yoke.
There is also a spacer plate that goes inbetween the 2 sides of the yoke.
We used to get ours from IMS, but they will probably not deal with retail. I would also expect the cost to be around the price of 2 or 3 new
propshafts. You also require a 19mm dia hand reamer to clean out the yoke.
John
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caber
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 06:51 PM |
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OK so how do you get old staked ones out?
Caber
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JB
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 07:00 PM |
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Removing UJ`s
A vice, hammer and punch will remove them.
Open the vice and rest the yoke ears of the shaft on each jaw. Then hit the yoke down. If you are lucky the uj cap will come up through the stakes,
but what will normally happen is the end of the cap will pop out and you will get needles flying everywhere.
If the cap does move you then have to drop some needles into the bottom of the cap to get more movement.
Repeat the above until the cap is out.
If the cap end pops out then you have to get busy with the punch and try to tap the sleeve of the cap out of the yoke.
If things get really desperate we used to gas axe through the uj cross and then push out the sleeve of the cap with another complete cap.
These ujs are awkward to do and best left to the pros. Even with all the kit I hated doing them often got them wrong when crimping.
John
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caber
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 07:03 PM |
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OK I'll have a go tonight and if it doesn't work off to engineering shop tomorrow.
Caber
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oliwb
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 07:52 PM |
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Caber, I think tiger do ones for about £80 balanced and powder coated and everything...not a bad deal. Alternatively any chance a landy one would fit
in?? £44! Would make it very cheap if it does! Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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caber
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 09:50 PM |
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Oli I doubt it! I trashed one of the UJ's tonight trying to get the bearings out It's just so annoying because it is pretty easy to fix
landy UJs wht's more you can actually grease them unlike these Ford "lubricated for life" things. I need to find a prop specialist
in Edinburgh or near to preferably that will be open on Saturday morning and I should think it will be less than £80 to fit the gearbox spline to the
existing shaft with new needle bearings !
Caber
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