JoelP
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 12:40 PM |
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brake trouble
been out for a blast just now, but the brakes began to bind worse than usual. Up on a jack, it appears to be the front n/s wheel that is nearly
impossible to turn by hand, whereas the o/s wheel spins a little by itself.
Any ideas what could cause just one brake to bind? Ive read old thread mentioning springs and m/c seals, but that seams to affect both brakes.
As ever, your help is appreciated 
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Rubix
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 12:55 PM |
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Brakes
Seized calliper seems the most likely ? 
Never mind that s**t, here comes MONGO
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mookaloid
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 12:59 PM |
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Either the pistons siezing or the sliders depending on the type of caliper.
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7 in a fancy suit
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 01:24 PM |
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Concur with the above. Took my Westfield out at Xmas, it hadn't been driven since October. Got 50 metres, touched the brakes.....then spent
the next 1 1/2 hours at the bottom of my driveway freeing up 3 wheels with 'stuck' pistons.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 01:47 PM |
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First thing to check it is isn't hydrualic locked --- trying pushing back the piston with the nipples open.
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JoelP
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 04:20 PM |
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bugger. How do i sort a siezed caliper? rebuild or just buy new? Its bog standard cortina stuff.
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RazMan
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 06:37 PM |
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Caliper repair kit from your local motor factors should do it. Failing that a refurb.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Peteff
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 08:02 PM |
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Take the caliper off and remove the dust seal, push piston back in the bore with a G cramp then lubricate it with some brake fluid and push it back
out with the brake pedal, not too far though so leave the clamp in place. Do it a few times to free it up then wipe some copaslip round the inside of
the bore and put the dust seal back on. I did mine 3 years ago and they haven't stuck since.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Stu16v
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 08:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Take the caliper off and remove the dust seal, push piston back in the bore with a G cramp then lubricate it with some brake fluid and push it back
out with the brake pedal, not too far though so leave the clamp in place. Do it a few times to free it up then wipe some copaslip round the inside of
the bore and put the dust seal back on. I did mine 3 years ago and they haven't stuck since.
Good advice - except for the copaslip. DO NOT GET COPASLIP ANYWHERE NEAR BRAKE SEALS...
Dont just build it.....make it!
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Dusty
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 11:42 PM |
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Lockheed or Girling make their own red
'grease' for lubricating seals etc.
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 11/2/06 at 03:34 AM |
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As BritishTrident posted, check for a collapsed brake hose before buying parts. You would be amazed at how many times that gets over looked.
If you cannot push the piston back using a pair of channel lock pliers open the bleeder and try again. If it goes back with it open you have a
collapsed hose or similar. If the piston still wont move back then your caliper is seized. Also make sure your slides are free. Should be able to
slide them by hand freely. Do not use any petroleum based lubes near rubber. It will swell and rot.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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Peteff
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| posted on 11/2/06 at 09:52 AM |
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DO NOT GET COPASLIP ANYWHERE NEAR BRAKE SEALS...
.I've been using this for the last 30 years, just a smear round the top of the bore where the piston comes up to seal against moisture, not
as a lubricant. I've never once had a brake failure, if the seals get that far up the bore you are going to be picking the piston up off the
road as the disk and pads will be missing. Red silicone grease is the one used for brake assembly and is safe to use in contact with seals and not
recommended for metal to metal lubrication
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Stu16v
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| posted on 11/2/06 at 03:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
.I've been using this for the last 30 years, just a smear round the top of the bore where the piston comes up to seal against moisture, not
as a lubricant. I've never once had a brake failure, if the seals get that far up the bore you are going to be picking the piston up off the
road as the disk and pads will be missing. Red silicone grease is the one used for brake assembly and is safe to use in contact with seals and not
recommended for metal to metal lubrication
You have been *very* lucky then. By all means use copaslip on the back and slide points of pads (but IMHO Moly grease is better). Copaslip should not
be used to lubricate components, only to stop them seizing (i.e. to aid future dismantling).
And only where it is safe to do so...
HTH Stu.
[Edited on 11/2/06 by Stu16v]
Dont just build it.....make it!
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 10:51 AM |
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had the caliper off today. Seems the outer piston is rather stiff - needs an adjustable wrench and both hands to get it back in. Gonna cycle it a few
times more and then see if its worked! Then onto the rack
how far out can you pump it before it comes out?! 5 pumps of the pedal puts it about 5mm out.
[Edited on 13/2/06 by JoelP]
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Deckman001
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 11:03 AM |
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When i was tring to free my pistons, 5 full pumps would see the piston on the floor !!
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 11:19 AM |
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 must be something different i guess, ive clamped the inside piston so only the outer one moves. I wont try more then! 
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 01:32 PM |
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not perfect, but much better. Cheers for everyones advice, its been a fun and free morning
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