marshall
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 01:27 PM |
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self centring?
hi i am trying to self cenring the wheels
on my tiger avon 2.0 pinto the camber is set a neutral. looking at the avon build book looks like i have to ajust the caster angle what is this and
how is this done . and do i need to have toe in or out?
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stevec
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 01:31 PM |
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Ive heard toe out one way,
And I am sure there are others as awell.
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emsfactory
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 01:33 PM |
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draw a line throught the upper und lower hub carrying points. Now draw a verticle line through the center of the wheel. The angle between these two is
the caster.
For self centering you want the upper mount further back (towards the rear of the car) than the lower.
Diferent folk use different angles. I think mine are about 7 degrees.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 02:34 PM |
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Avon geometry is a bit kaky.
Best way is a fair bit of toe out on each wheel so your car looks really odd from the front - but will centre enough for SVA.
Remember to change it back afterwards though.
And let your tyres down to about 16psi.
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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marshall
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 02:46 PM |
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i am confused how do i ajust the caster as i can not see how it can be changed. i can see what you are geting at but i can not see how it is done
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JoelP
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 03:00 PM |
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you can get more adjustment if you get rosejointed upper wishbones, but as Mark says, its best preset by the position of the brackets.
Just to clarify what emsfactory said above, that when you are viewing from the side. 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 04:56 PM |
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Don't worry about the castor - nothing you can do about it on the Avon.
Just do everything else I said.
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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t.j.
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 07:45 PM |
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If you build by the drawings you will have zero degr castor. The 90 degr at the upper rail is not correct. This must be at the bottom rails. This will
give you about 5,5 degr castor.
Two options.
1. Maybe you can use some washers at the bottom wishbones which pushes the lower wishbones as far as possible to the front. The upper wishbone must be
pushed to the rear of the car.
2. If that doesn't help replace the upper brackets or produce some new wishbones.
Grtz
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Avoneer
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 09:52 PM |
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Leave them bones alone.
You can get the car to self centre as it is.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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tractorboy
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| posted on 5/3/06 at 02:12 AM |
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it only needs to have a tendancy to self centre and it will never self centre as a road going production car does. cheers scott
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Lightning
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| posted on 5/3/06 at 03:18 PM |
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Make sure however that the top wishbones are the rrght way around as they are handed.
Steve
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mandbsheldon
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| posted on 5/3/06 at 03:23 PM |
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Or you could put some springs under the gaters in the rack, then self centers no problem.
Leigh
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t.j.
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| posted on 5/3/06 at 06:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Lightning
Make sure however that the top wishbones are the rrght way around as they are handed.
I have a question:
You have made your wihsbones longer.
What is and was your track, ET value and how much longer did you made your wishbones? It looks very nice
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Lightning
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| posted on 5/3/06 at 09:45 PM |
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Increased by ~70mm each side. This makes my track ~40mm less that the back overall.
Steve
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marshall
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 08:00 AM |
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hi steve is there a right way round how can you tell is it only the top one or is it the bottom one or is it both wishbones?
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 09:16 AM |
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I suppose you could measure them but I could only tell by holding them up against each other. basically you want them so that the top mount is a far
back as possible....
I 'think' the bottom mounts are identical so you only need worry about the top ones.
HTH
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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