the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 12:34 PM |
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Which Hayabusa
Hi guys i was wondering if someone could recommended which Hayabusa engine to go for or whether there isn't much difference between them.
Many thanks in advance.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 12:56 PM |
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Have you considered a ZX12R? They are somewhat cheaper....... 
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the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 01:21 PM |
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Have had my heart set on an R1 for ages now even bought my haynes manuel and rear exhaust can but havent found a suitable engine and ones i do find
people are asking to much so thought i might aswell see what i can get for more money.
I was reading a superbike mag the other night whioch showed in america they have had 260mph out of a turbo busa now im not expecting to get or even do
that but i was thinking there are alot of tuning parts availlible for the busa which there arent for the ZXR.
I might still go for a R1 but its been that long since i first started to look that im just getting a little impateint cause i had this car now for 3
years and have only driven it twice so dont want to miss this summer.
Anyway well see what happens !
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 01:22 PM |
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mate theres loads of r1 engines out there
wait a week and one will come up
I drove an 800 mile round trip for mine
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G.Man
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 03:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by the moa 2
but i was thinking there are alot of tuning parts availlible for the busa which there arent for the ZXR.
Yuo they aren't called money pits for nothing
Seems the guys are now having better luck with the zx12r cut down sump and accusump so it could turn out to be a lot cheaper route, and a simple mr
turbo kit to give it some good performance...
Big bore kit for the zx12r isnt an issue from Muzzy's either....
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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jos
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 03:45 PM |
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Keep an eye on the stock lists of
http://www.rsmotorcycles.co.uk/
They usually have a number of R1's Birds, Blades, & Busas although they dont seem to have any R1's or Busa at the moment.
They mainly deal in bikes that have been dropped on the forcourt & written off but you can see the level of written off-ness in the fairly
detailed photos they put up for each bike.
.: Motorsport / motor racing circuit / track wall art Apex Traxs :.
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kb58
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 04:00 PM |
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Keep in mind the Hayabusa WILL require a dry-sump, around $2000, so it's far from a bargin. Once that's factored in the R1 looks much
better.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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JoelP
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 04:35 PM |
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doesnt ox use a busa with no dry sump?
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OX
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 05:38 PM |
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hi,i use a dry sump kit but i was talking to a bloke at holeshot turbos friday and he said they use there own wet sump £300 becouse the pumps are
unreliable  dax dont use a dry sump .
there are busa engines out there for around £2500 but for £1500 you can get the zx12 which makes it a brilliant buy
[Edited on 7/3/06 by OX]
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the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 05:50 PM |
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nearly bought a busa 2001 £2500 a minute ago!
Is it stupid to buy one should i really be looking into the ZX's ?
What are the pros and cons of busa vs ZX
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GEORGE80
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 05:56 PM |
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if you decide to go down the 1000cc route go for the fazer 1000, in a bec it noticably quicker than the r1 do to yamaha reworking the head for more
low down torque, and its still 150bhp.
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 06:30 PM |
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mate low down ???
my car will never be below 8k
thats when the r1 is in its glory
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OX
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 07:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by the moa 2
Is it stupid to buy one should i really be looking into the ZX's ?
What are the pros and cons of busa vs ZX
all i know is the busa's are known to be bullet proof
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Hellfire
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 07:03 PM |
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ZX12R v Busa.
To be honest there's not a lot in em. ZX12R has slightly more BHP, whereas Busa has slightly more torque. There's very little to split em.
Have a look at the clip on this page
Link
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 08:00 PM |
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George, all I can say is that the R1 you tested must have been low on power, the Fazer tuned, or the R1 installed in a significantly heavier car (or
you've got a Fazer engine to sell ) because there's no way it would be noticably faster than a good R1 lump.
2001 R1
150 BHP
108.00 Nm @ 8500 RPM
2001 Fazer
143bhp
106.0Nm @ 7500 RPM
The 2006 Fazer is 150bhp but the same 106Nm peak torque rises to 8,000rpm making it all but identical to the 2002/3 R1 and I suspect if anything it
would be more expensive than a 2002/3 R1 given its age.
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G.Man
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 09:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by OX
quote:
Originally posted by the moa 2
Is it stupid to buy one should i really be looking into the ZX's ?
What are the pros and cons of busa vs ZX
all i know is the busa's are known to be bullet proof
As long as you have the updated starter case...
The Busa is a strong motor, the ZX12 is not quite as strong in some areas, but is a good high revving motor, and a fraction of the price...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 09:38 PM |
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Yep although I still think the busa shades it as the ultimate BEC engine overall, I certainly think out of the two the ZX12 is the engine to go for
considering the price they currently sell at. Even if you felt the need to dry sump it (debatable), it would still come out ~£1000-1500 cheaper than
an equivalent busa and give equal performance.
The only downside to both engines is that they are significantly heaver (by 20-30kgs) than the litre engines, so the gains over an R1 etc aren't
quite as much as you first think.
[Edited on 7/3/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 09:38 PM |
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Ok might be getting it tommorrow maybe !
What do people use for the fuel pump do you use the original ?
Can i still use my ETB digi dash 2 or do i have to use the original clocks ?
What other mods need doing to the engine other than dry sumping.
Do i need a oil cooler radiator ?
Any recommendations on best dry sump kit ?
What the best exhaust set up equal length 4-1 or 4-2-1 or not equal length ?
Any help much appreciated.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 09:50 PM |
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Digidash will be ideal, on the busa you can use the original clocks for diagnostic purposes (so worth having in the garage and leaving the connectors
on the loom) but will work with any aftermarket dash setup.
Fuel pump - if its anything like the R1 then the original pump will be a submersible one so you might be better off getting an inline Bosch pump or
something. Mine's a Bosch 0 580 464 038 and its exactly as my mate's Megabusa has fitted as supplied by Westfield.
An oil cooler would be a good idea if you're going on track, as for dry sump kits, a good place to start might be the
WSCC forum as its been discussed a few times on there by busa owners.
[Edited on 7/3/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 09:57 PM |
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So a in line fuel pump with an extra bit in the bottom of the tank to stop fuel starvation would be fine. Do i need two fuel lines running through the
tunnel if so what inlet/outlet do i need for the tank breather / inlet / outlet ?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 10:04 PM |
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Yep you'll probably need a swirl pot in the bottom of the tank. Some people run a low pressure pump feeding a small secondary swirl pot / tank
which then feeds the FI pump, but as long as your tank is reasonably well designed and baffled then thats overkill for our use.
You will also need a return fuel feed back into the tank and also possibly a regulator (not sure if the busa has one built into the fuel rail). From
memory I have a 10mm hose from the tank into the pump, then 8mm pipe on the high pressure side including the return feed to the tank, but thats on an
R1 so you might need different hose to fit the busa.
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the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 10:32 PM |
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God this is starting to get a bit daunting !
I have read somehwere that the clucth is hydraluic is this true ? If so what do i need to do to convert it or is it easier to get a master cyclinder
?
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 10:46 PM |
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If you're worried about finding a good R1 motor talk to yorkshire engines on this forum.
His names Malc and he's very experienced in motorsport circles (BSB techie and still races sidecars). But the most important thing... He sells
great engines and very good prices...
You're talking about Busas and ZX12's for around the £1500 mark + accumsump and modded sump and Busas for A LOT more... My R1 kit set me
back £850 with fuel pump, all wiring looms, relays, radiator, etc. from Malc and for the amount of money you are saving you could get yourself a wet
50 shot of NOS easily and blow away most things on two or four wheels...
This is his number if you're interested. He's a great bloke and more than willing to answer any questions and he's usually got a few
R1's in... 07960011585
Chris.
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the moa 2
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| posted on 7/3/06 at 11:05 PM |
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Yeah i know !
Im not gonna go that route anymore
Thanks anyway
[Edited on 7/3/06 by the moa 2]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 8/3/06 at 09:15 AM |
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It is hydraulic clutch, and from what I remember has a bolt-in actuator/slave cylinder that pushes inwards to release the clutch rather than the more
common lever arm rotating as per R1s, blades etc, so probably not straight forward to convert to cable.
Ive never heard of any specific problems getting it to work though, so I assume its just a matter of rigging up a suitably sized master cylinder for
it.
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