iceman26
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 02:55 PM |
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bike engine install
i have just got my new engine a fazer 1000
can any one tell me were i can get a cradle to fit the engine or will i have to make one up
also what ratio of sierra diff is best to use with this engine
thanks for your help
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Hellfire
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 03:30 PM |
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It's not just a cradle you'll need, it will almost certainly need a few modifications to the chassis in the engine bay area for the lower
mounting brackets. To be honest, you'd be better off doing it yourself if you can.
Best diff really depends what ratios are available for your particular application. Somewhere around 3.62 should be OK.
Phil
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 03:42 PM |
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Would agree with Hellfire, not an hard job too do yourself, make room for it in the chassis, lower it into where you want it and build a cradle around
it, most bike engines are solid mounted into the chassis, I have used suspension bush's too mount before but the last 3 have been solid with no
detrimental effects that Ive noticed.
Diff ? depends on the gearbox final output ratio, dunno on yours........
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 03:46 PM |
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I think its the same ratios as the R1, so something betwen a 3.3x and 3.6x would be fine assuming you plan on running regular size wheel/tyres and
aren't going for the bling 17" option.
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locoboy
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 04:25 PM |
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word of advice,
Get your exhaust headers or full system before you mount your engine otherwise your exhaust could well be way off line with respect to the chassis
once you bolt it up to the engine 
ATB
Locoboy
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iceman26
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 04:29 PM |
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thanks
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G.Man
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 05:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
word of advice,
Get your exhaust headers or full system before you mount your engine otherwise your exhaust could well be way off line with respect to the chassis
once you bolt it up to the engine
Or you could have your exhaust headers made to fit...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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Hellfire
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 06:15 PM |
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I'd sooner have the engine in the right place and then get a custom exhaust system made to measure
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GEORGE80
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 06:58 PM |
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mines a fazer 1000 and a with a standard 3.62 diff does 100mph at 10.000 rpm, i have 205/40/17 tyres if that helps
[Edited on 23/4/06 by GEORGE80]
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G.Man
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 07:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
I'd sooner have the engine in the right place and then get a custom exhaust system made to measure
Exactly...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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cossey
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 07:12 PM |
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but atleast make sure the exhaust is possible ie the ports arent inline with the chassis rail or anything else you cant easily move.
the engine should be as far back as practicable, canted over to the same angle as the bike had the engine at and with the output flange at the center
of the tunnel when looking from the diff end.
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JoelP
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 07:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cossey
...and with the output flange at the center of the tunnel when looking from the diff end.
no need for that bit, so long as the two flanges are perfectly parallel and the prop knuckles lined up right. I have mine as far over to my feet as
possible, to clear the n/s rails. Apparently universal joints last longer running at a small angle. 
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G.Man
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 09:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by cossey
...and with the output flange at the center of the tunnel when looking from the diff end.
no need for that bit, so long as the two flanges are perfectly parallel and the prop knuckles lined up right. I have mine as far over to my feet as
possible, to clear the n/s rails. Apparently universal joints last longer running at a small angle.
Spot on, no need for perfect alignment.. and looking for it will only make the weight distibution worse...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 09:18 PM |
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+ your gonna be using a 2 piece prop so any angle at the front is lost there.
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wildchild
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 08:55 AM |
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got mine in the chassis over the weekend and straight in line isn't going to happen without rebuilding the front end of the chassis.
what I was planning on doing was turning the engine a bit so it sits parallel to the n/s top rail, giving a fairly straight run from the output shaft
to the centre bearing, where it will have to go round a bit of a corner to carry on down the tunnel.
and yeah, it's going to be custom exhaust headers. The bike ones turn downwards too quickly - through the chassis rail!
Mounting wise, I was just going to make up some mounts that vaguely replicated how it was in the bike. But that depends on your engine - the ZZR has
all the mounts down near the bottom, rather than having one up near the head.
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cossey
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 11:01 AM |
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doesnt the output flange face have to be parallel to the diff flange face?
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wildchild
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 12:13 PM |
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I fail to see why, but if anyone can correct me please do so in the next week or two before I make any engine mounts!
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cossey
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 12:21 PM |
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because if they arent parallel then the universal joints will make the motion of the shaft uneven and cause vibrations
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
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wildchild
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 12:35 PM |
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I thought it might be something like that.
I did contemplate using CV joints for one or other half of the prop (although not for that reason). Might have to have another look at that one.
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chaos999
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 01:28 PM |
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Hi,
I thought it was that the angles had to even up in the end and not that it needed to be aligned...
It runs through a centre bearing - rubber doughnut which needs to be at an angle really but the straighter the better but not completly straight. Was
unaware they had to align faces.
Simon
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G.Man
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 01:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cossey
because if they arent parallel then the universal joints will make the motion of the shaft uneven and cause vibrations
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
CV Joints are better in that respect, but the problem wont be huge if the angle isnt...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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Peteff
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 04:06 PM |
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The prop can run at an angle if it has a slider in it to take up the in out motion it causes.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 05:28 PM |
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I stand to be corrected but I seriously doubt a slider in the prop will slide anywhere quick enough to absorb an oscillating movement at 7000rpm (over
100Hz). Try sliding it in and out once a second by hand and see how much effort it takes, now multiply that by 100
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 05:29 PM |
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As I understand it, the problem with CV joints is you can't easily find one thats rated to rotate at the kind of RPM you see on a prop.
[Edited on 24/4/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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JoelP
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| posted on 24/4/06 at 05:30 PM |
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the constant velocity also means just that, the rotary velocity is constant at an angle. When universal joints are run either at an angle or with the
knuckles not matching (ie cancelling), the output end will not spin at a constant velocity, it will pulse.
i cant see how they will pulse or vibrate in or out though?
[Edited on 24/4/06 by JoelP]
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