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Author: Subject: Workshop floor
omega 24 v6

posted on 6/5/06 at 03:39 PM Reply With Quote
Workshop floor

My shed floor seems to be breaking up, possibly as a result of poor mixture concrete, or overfloating of the wet mix bringing all the cement to the surface.
It does not get very heavy traffic/use but a lot of dust is arising from this problem.
Is there a product that I could mix and pour onto the surface to relevel(gm) the area and seal it against dust at the same time?
A cheap method preferably folks

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907

posted on 6/5/06 at 03:52 PM Reply With Quote
Floor leveling compound?

Very hard, very smooth result.

It involves hoovering surface, and soak with water/pva mix.

Mix flc powder with water and float on while pva is still wet.

hth

Paul G






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omega 24 v6

posted on 6/5/06 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks. Any idea of a trade name for it. How long does it take to dry/set. The floor is mega powdery will pva/water mix be enough?
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Peteff

posted on 6/5/06 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
Cempolay is floor levelling compound but it's not very hardwearing and is best used under matting or something.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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omega0684

posted on 6/5/06 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
i have a few bags you can have if you want to come and pick them up! self leveling compound that is

sorry i just checked where you live and you are about 500 miles from where i live, im sure B&Q sell it

ATB Anyway, good luck

P.S, when i did my garage floor i put concrete down first the a sealent and then self levelling on top, and then sealed that aswell, then laminated and then carpet on top of that! i got all of it for free

[Edited on 6/5/06 by omega0684]





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

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lexi

posted on 6/5/06 at 09:38 PM Reply With Quote
Overtrowelling will bring the aggregate and water to the surface and leave the cement at the bottom causing the perishing of your surface. Either that or its been caught with frost when curing. Can you get down to any solid level with it?. Most screeding in bags is for levelling before tilework. You could make your own as you got nothing to lose. Once you get the loose stuff try to ascertain what thickness of sreed you are gonna be able to put down. Door openings and how much you have taken off will determine this. If your minimum thickness is 4mm at one poiny of floor and you have infills of much more at other points your cheapest option is to screed the whole floor with 3parts concrete or sharp sand to one part blue circle orninary portland cement. you should get 5 litres of pva b&q red container. Mix 50/ 50 with water and mix in some dry cement to very thin pancake mix. This is your primer adhesive which you brush on with fine sweeping brush and then trowel sand cement mix on top while primer is still wet. sand and cement should be well mixed to about consistency of bricklaying mortar. You can do sections at a timeand use the bonding agent to overlap your hard sections from night before. Also if doing in sections feather the edges where you will join and put screed down with a quick trowel and give another trowel when your fingers hardly make a print.........That`s the Locost way to do it
Alex

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