TimC
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 10:06 AM |
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Electrolysis - Suitable for what??
Was wondering what parts people thought electrolysis suitable for cleaning?
- Calipers?
- Driveshafts?
- Steering Column?
Or is it better to stick with hubs, uprights etc?
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shortie
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 10:40 AM |
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Has anyone ever tried soaking in citric acid??
I was watching a programme the other night on sky when he put a rusty part ina bath of citric acid and when he took it out 8 hours later it was like
new metal!!
So I've bought some to have a play :-)
Rich.
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donut
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 10:56 AM |
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Here is a link to how to do all that electrolysis stuff..
Clicky clicky
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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tom windmill
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 11:03 AM |
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look here :
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=9158
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James
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 11:07 AM |
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DONUT, how's your public liability insurance???
quote:
Originally posted by donut
Here is a link to how to do all that electrolysis stuff..
Clicky clicky
Donut,
Please edit that document so that it doesn't tell people to use a stainless steel electrode!
It gives off a highly toxic by-product:
From the original electrolysis thread:
"
"Many people using the electrolysis method for rust reduction swear by stainless steel, stating (incorrectly) that it's not consumed,
stays clean and seems safe.
Stainless steel is indeed consumed when used in the electrolysis process, although slowly. The main problem with using it is the hazardous waste it
produces. Stainless steel contains chromium. The electrodes, and thus the chromium is consumed, and you end up with poisonous chromates in your
electrolyte. Dumping these on the ground or down the drain is illegal. The compounds can cause severe skin problems and ultimately, cancer. Hexavalent
chromate is poisonous. These compounds are not excused from hazardous waste regulations where household wastes are.
These compounds are bad enough that government regulations mandate "elimination of hexavalent chromate by 2007 for corrosion
protection."
Does your electrolyte turn yellow? That's a sign of chromates.
If you have been using stainless steel for the anodes (positive electrodes), wear rubber gloves when working with or near the liquids. If you need to
dispose of it, allow it to evaporate into powders and dispose of the powders in sealed containers during your local "hazardous waste clean-up
days".
Best bet - don't use stainless steel no matter how tempting it is."
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=9158&page=1
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 9/5/06 by James]
[Edited on 9/5/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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muzchap
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 11:21 AM |
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Agree with James
Ally plate was good enough for me 
I did my Carriers and pretty much everything that would fit in the tub!
It's bloody ace
Leave it fizzing away and come back x hours later - all done
------------------------------------
If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
------------------------------------
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cossey
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 11:28 AM |
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you shouldnt be using ali either its supposed to be mild steel
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amalyos
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 12:19 PM |
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I used some mild steel plate, it worked great.
One hub I left for 2 days (by mistake).
There were no problems, it doesn't touch any good metal i.e. bearing sufaces.
Def recommend.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 02:42 PM |
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As for the original question, calipers can be done, but if they're that bad, just buy some new/recon ones. Drive shafts can be done if you have
a long bucket. Which bit of the steering column needs doing? If its the long extension type bit again, if it fits in a bucket do it. If its the top
bit with the collapsable bit I'd buy a another one.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 03:07 PM |
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I used stainless, nowt to worry about. Yea the solution will contain various chromates, but then so do most paints, and numerous other things that we
think nothing about.
Likewise paint disposal is tricky but we still buy it without a concern.
Most of the paranoia stuff seems to eminate from California where most things carry a health warning of some sort.
Once your solution is finished with, cover it with a free breathing cover to stop anumals/children drinking it, and put it somewhere to evaporate
away. Brush up the salt residues (with gloes on if you want to be careful), put em with some old paint in a paint can and dispose of at the waste
paint dump at your local tip, job done.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 03:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by shortie
Has anyone ever tried soaking in citric acid??
Yep... it works well. One thing to watch - once it's done its derusting and you've rinsed it off thoroughly, coat it in something
immediately (oil, or paint) otherwise it'll rust while you watch!
Citric acid is also good for removing mill scale (the black hard skin) off new black mild steel. hell of a lot easier than a wire brush or
abrasives.
David
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donut
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 04:32 PM |
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James...
Right oh, i'll get it changed!!
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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Bryan Sears
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| posted on 10/5/06 at 07:03 PM |
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I have just been and had a look at the half shaft I have been de rusting.
Must have got the pos /neg round the wrong way.
My part has big pits in it and the case hardening on the cvj that goes into the diff has all gone! I have been doing fine with it up till now easily
done.
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