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Author: Subject: Pinto Cutting Out
Macbeast

posted on 10/5/06 at 02:41 PM Reply With Quote
Pinto Cutting Out

1988 1.6 Pinto with standard Weber carb.
Still in donor Sierra which I'm running for a couple of weeks as MOT runs out to see if any problems.

Yes there are! Engine is fine for half an hour and on motorway but dies occasionally once hot and in slow traffic on a hot day like today. Can start it again almost immediately but it will die again after a minute or ten. When it restarts there is a kind of splutter and whiff of petrol.

Thought it might be sticking needle valve and replaced that but still the same. Floats seem ok. Coil feels quite hot. Temp gauge reads normal.

Any ideas? Oddly G/F had similar problem with her MGB, which we never got to the bottom of.

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rusty nuts

posted on 10/5/06 at 02:52 PM Reply With Quote
Could be fuel vaporising in hot weather , electric pump may cure it . Was fairly common on the old Fiat X19. Also check that the warm air pick up is functioning properly and not stuck in the warm position . May be worth fitting an insulator block between carb and manifold if not already fitted , would help
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Macbeast

posted on 10/5/06 at 03:36 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Rusty, but I'm inclined to think not. There is an insulating block and the air filter is K&N straight in so no summer/winter position. My feeling is it's flooding which accounts for the splutter on restarting...... but then, if I knew what was wrong I wouldn't need to ask for help would I ?

When we had the similar trouble on the MGB I thought of evaporation but never managed to cure it.

Thanks again.

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JAG

posted on 10/5/06 at 04:38 PM Reply With Quote
Have you considered the ignition side.

The coils of wire inside the ignition coil can fracture - however when cold there will be a mechanical connection as the fractured ends are still in contact and the engine will still run.

Then when the coil warms up (after use or through radiated heat under the bonnet) the wire coils expand slightly and the coil stops working.

Check you've got a spark when it packs up next time.





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

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Macbeast

posted on 10/5/06 at 04:51 PM Reply With Quote
Will do, but it always conks out in traffic and then restarts almost immediately . Will try subbing the coil
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ditchlewis

posted on 11/5/06 at 07:47 AM Reply With Quote
i had a similar problem with a nova many moons ago. would cut out on warm days and at the most inoportune moments.

Vauxhall said that there was no problem until it broke down on the forcourt.

turned out to be ignition... the coil had been damaged by leaving the ignition on without the engin running.

hope this helps.

ditch

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DarrenW

posted on 11/5/06 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
Macbeast - im in similar status with my 2.0.

It has been cutting out in hot traffic. I have had to let it cool down before it would restart. I think part of my problem is vaporisation and im trying to cure that.

The last time it cut out it wouldnt start at all. No spark getting to plugs. This is leading me to suspect my problem is a compound one and could also be coil failure in heat. i have another one to try along with replacement module.

Keep me informed what you find out.






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02GF74

posted on 11/5/06 at 09:22 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Could be fuel vaporising in hot weather ,


hmmmm I'm not sure. The under bonnet temperature is governed by the thermostat and the fan cooling - on a hot day in traffic the fan works harder.

Also the fuel pump, mechanicl or electrical, should be more than capable of pushing fuel into the carbs.

The situations of where a vapour lock occurs is when the pump is not running and the fuel evaporates in the lines/carbs so the engine cannot start.

I'll go with the ignition side as being a problem - coil/condenser/electronics?

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MikeRJ

posted on 11/5/06 at 09:47 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Could be fuel vaporising in hot weather ,


hmmmm I'm not sure. The under bonnet temperature is governed by the thermostat and the fan cooling - on a hot day in traffic the fan works harder.


The coolant temperature is governed by the thermostat. Underbonnet temperatures are determined by numerous parameters, but ultimately controlled by the airflow through the engine bay, which can be quite poor on a locost (and negligible when stopped).

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Macbeast

posted on 11/5/06 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
Darren

Will do.

I'm adopting shotgun approach. There is a thing between the fuel pump and the carb called a fuel regulator and VAPOUR SEPARATOR so I'm replacing that tomorrow as it would seem logical. Coil next. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks all for suggestions.

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DarrenW

posted on 11/5/06 at 11:05 PM Reply With Quote
Macbeast - fixed my failed ignition tonight by replacing the electronic ignition amplifier and coil. Its strange that my problems started as soon as the weather dried up and got warmer. First occasion was when getting emission tested before Stoneleigh trip - It was ticking over in MOT place for 15 - 20 mins and cut out. Did this on 2 seperate occasions. Later it did it after 4 hour drive to Stoneleigh. 10 mins in the queue and it died. I waited 15mins before it would fire up. Strangely i diagnosed fuel vaporisation (carb gets very hot) but could always smell petrol from exhaust when cranking over.

I drove 190 miles home on motorway with no problems but never encountered traffic (and it p15sed down which helps to keep it cool). Over the course of next 2 weeks it got steadily worse after even a short journey through the town (roundabouts, traffic lights etc so lots of stops and slow moving). It always restarted after 20 mins of cooling time until Monday when it stopped and would not restart even when cold - this is when i discivered no spark.

So right now i have restored the spark but have not road tested to see if it behaves when hot.
I have never had an issue at all over the first 1,000 miles - maybe cos weather was wet and cold, but there have been many times when ive had it running in dry garage and got it very hot for extended periods.
Fuel vaporisation theory is under review - i know other people with almost identical set up to mine (Jos) who have never had a problem.

Ill keep you posted.

[Edited on 11/5/06 by DarrenW]






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Macbeast

posted on 12/5/06 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
Darren,

I may have it. Felt coil, was hot, felt ignition amplifier block and engine died.

The flat multi-way connector to the amplifier was loose so that could be it. Time will tell. Will give it a spray of contact cleaner too.

The somewhat expensive and possibly superfluous new vapor separator looks pretty spiffy too

Will keep you informed

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tractorboy

posted on 13/5/06 at 06:39 AM Reply With Quote
just a thought its not caused by the fuel 'froathing' in the float chamber and causing the float to cut the fuel supply is it? just a thought i know this can happen with webers caused by vibration if the carbs are bolted to tightly to the block ( not allowed to move on the rubber washer/ spacer) just another option. scott
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Macbeast

posted on 15/5/06 at 08:48 PM Reply With Quote
Been running around happily all day (though it's not that warm) and no trouble. So it looks like it was just bad contact on plug to the ignition amplifier.

How silly !!

But thanks everyone for suggestions.

Anyone want a scruffy but probably ok fuel regulator / vapour separator ?

[Edited on 15/5/06 by Macbeast]

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DarrenW

posted on 16/5/06 at 09:02 AM Reply With Quote
I also managed to do 90 miles with no problems yesterday. It wasnt a hot day but i did get it fully warmed up on a motorway then successfully managed to drive in some traffic.

Pleased youve fixed it.






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