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Author: Subject: how much does a locost really cost ;)
natehall

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:23 AM Reply With Quote
how much does a locost really cost ;)

well - ron champion says you can do it for 250 - and i really can not see that being possible

did he miss a 0 off the end? what would a realistic budget be to build one? using a old oily pinto you may have lieing around, with a couple of sierra uprights and using IRS

yes you guessed it - soon as my current project is fully trackworthy im building me a locost





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if it is broke, uprate it

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flak monkey

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:27 AM Reply With Quote
Mines currently cost me 4014.28 thats for all the major parts. Only things left are an exhaust system, seatbelts and headlights. Anything else is little bits like p-clips, brake pipe fittings etc.

That building from a kit, most other parts have been sourced second hand.

Hoping to be on the road for around 5k. Time will tell





Sera

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omega0684

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:41 AM Reply With Quote
im on about 10k at the moment for my DAX, but im buying a lot of stuff new.





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

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joneh

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
If you make your own chassis and buy the steel rather than nick it, I've worked out you can do it for under a grand, assuming you have all the tools and you get a Cortina donor for around 300.

(thats the car made - not on the road)






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smart51

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:46 AM Reply With Quote
The book title says 250 but in the second edition, the author qualifies this a bit. He says is was possible when the book was first written but prices have gone up over 10 years, especially of escort donors. He says that he had to build quite a few to get the cost down that low and that it was built almost entirley out of scavenged materials. Examples are free steel offcuts when a few long lengths are bought, aluminium cut from the side of a scrap van, steel for the floor cut from the donor escort roof.

In practice, you are not going to do this because you want your car to be nice. You are going to pay for chassis paint and you are going to fit new brake discs and a new oil filter.

5000 for a book locost build isn't far from the mark.

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Marcus

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:47 AM Reply With Quote
We did ours for 1500 each - on the road. Since then, I've spent another 7-800 on it, and there's still some stuff to do.

Still cheap motoring though.





Marcus


Because kits are for girls!!

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natehall

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:53 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
The book title says 250 but in the second edition, the author qualifies this a bit. He says is was possible when the book was first written but prices have gone up over 10 years, especially of escort donors. He says that he had to build quite a few to get the cost down that low and that it was built almost entirley out of scavenged materials. Examples are free steel offcuts when a few long lengths are bought, aluminium cut from the side of a scrap van, steel for the floor cut from the donor escort roof.

In practice, you are not going to do this because you want your car to be nice. You are going to pay for chassis paint and you are going to fit new brake discs and a new oil filter.

5000 for a book locost build isn't far from the mark.


all my donor parts are being sourced as free as i will be using sierra parts which if i have not got (unlikely as i cant seam to get rid of em) then i can get for next to nothing - normally buy me a couple pints and take what you want. I currently have 2 drum back ends - only one for sale - a couple sets of hubs - one set for sale a full steering column sourced for nothing and a propshaft i cant shift.

In my other project (sierra track toy) i have a pinto thats likely to come out and be replaced by a 2.1 pinto in the next couple of months - with a geearbox - meaning i have almost a full kit

I already have a couple sorned V5's meaning i could get age related plate etc etc etc

All of the parts are in useable condition - so its unlikely i am going to waste money getting them rebuilt while they dont need it





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omega 24 v6

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:26 AM Reply With Quote
Surely the true cost of any locost is.

TFYTTW*2 + ALBEJIC

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natehall

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Surely the true cost of any locost is.

TFYTTW*2 + ALBEJIC


wtf





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omega 24 v6

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:39 AM Reply With Quote
The figure you told the wife *2 + A little bit extra just in case. LOL

Hopefully for me around the 3 1/2 grand mark though.

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DavidM

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
I spent about 3000 for the car, including rebuilding all of the oily bits and all new/recon brake components. 300 for tools, i.e. weding set, rivet gun etc. 200 for SVA, registration and plates.

That's for a book built car.

Budget when I started in 2000 was 1300 + tools + OTR

Main thing I underestimated was the cost of all the minor elements, such as bolts, trim, bearings, and bits of hose etc. Towards the end I seemed to be forever spending 5 here and 10 there.

David





Proportion is Everything

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NS Dev

posted on 8/6/06 at 12:07 PM Reply With Quote
5500 ish for mine, but then (I guess a bit like Ned) I regarded the build as a way of getting something that had the performance and appearance of a Ca*er*am HPC for a lot less money.

I know the locost chassis isn't as good, but I like the "pre-lit" westy look and the cater*am look, but I am not keen on the new big wide sevens, as they are not really very sevenesque in my opinion.

5500 is not locost, but it is cheaper than doing the equivalent westfield or other alternatives.

This little lot soon blows the 250 budget out of the window!!!!:


exhaust 2
exhaust 2


[Edited on 8/6/06 by NS Dev]





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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muzchap

posted on 8/6/06 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
I'm at about 6500 complete - including 'fancy' everything and SVA TEST and possible fail + insurance.

My original budget was 5k - but you just can't help spending!

I've got a lot of parts nickle plated - well as many as can be and everything is new (except engine and donor parts) but they have all been reconditioned.

It can be done cheaper for sure - but the beauty of these cars is you can build it how you want to





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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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Johnmor

posted on 8/6/06 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
Sitting aroungd 6000,

Alfa v6 Viento, but just about finished, another 500 including SVA.

But its worth it!!!


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mark chandler

posted on 8/6/06 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
I must be doing something wrong then, mines going to come in at 3000.

Mind you I,m making as much as I can so body & frame is under 300 for materials... engine 550 wheels 250 Seats 200, brakes 400, its the hidden bits that add up.

You do end up with some nice tools, a lot of satisfaction and a disgruntled SWMBO so its not all bad !

Regards Mark

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Mark Allanson

posted on 8/6/06 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
I spent 2300 for the build and about 300 getting SVA'd and registered. I did have all the necessary tools, got some amazing deals, and had access to a bodyshop!





If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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DIY Si

posted on 8/6/06 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
I'm hoping to come under 1500 built. If I'm lucky this may get me on the road too. It all depends how patient you are and how willing to make things. I'm quite patient and am learning how to make stufff from scratch, so this'll safe me a fortune. But will take much longer to build.
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natehall

posted on 8/6/06 at 07:57 PM Reply With Quote
i am not after a pristine kit car, not really bothered about all the bling, would rather have a car that feels good - and is fun to drive than a load of bling





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DIY Si

posted on 8/6/06 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
As per my thinking. Shiny bits are nice, but cost more than something I've made and painted. The only bits I can't make that I don't already have are the new brake parts, lights and a couple of gauges. Everything else is being built or modified from something cheap or free.
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907

posted on 8/6/06 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
There seems to be at one end, "the build at almost any cost", and at the other end, "build as cheap as chips".

I suppose I fall in the middle. My trade enables me to make stuff, but then I do blow cash on other stuff.
A set of 5 wheels, my shocks, steering wheel, seats, and engine & gearbox, there's 2k for a start.

In saying that, the car stands at 3800 at the moment, with the only one major outlay to come, the sva.


Paul G






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DIY Si

posted on 8/6/06 at 09:26 PM Reply With Quote
If I had the money I would get the engine I want now. However, to spread the potential cost out a bit and so I get to learn my car I'm starting with an 1800 cvh, rather than a tuned 3lt v6. Oh, and I forgot about the shocks. If I had the money, I'd buy some shiny/go faster bits, but I have to persuade the swmbo first. And that ain't easy.
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Dale

posted on 8/6/06 at 10:16 PM Reply With Quote
Bling is expensive but sweat is not. Time is either free or expensive depending on weather the the build is a hobby or build to schedule. An ultra light racer I am sure would cost much more than a nice road car. I am at around $2200 Cnd or 1100# and I would not doubt if I double that by the time I get bodywork/paint and tires.
Dale





Thanks
Dale

my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road

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natehall

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:08 PM Reply With Quote
its very interesting how different the budgets are - id be aiming to build one (not sva etc) for about 2k maximum - with the outlay over several sections - i have a feeling bodywork will be the most expensive

i dont know if this is realistic - but will be one hell of a challenge finding out





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kb58

posted on 9/6/06 at 12:51 AM Reply With Quote
What you want to do with the car very much determines what it'll cost to build. If it's a track car and you want to win, it means light weight wheels, sticky tires, and double-adjustable *good* quaility shocks. These items alone can be upward of $4000-$5000...





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And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
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Fred W B

posted on 9/6/06 at 06:26 AM Reply With Quote
I keep a spreadsheet list of all the money I have spent on parts and materials, and have a cell at the bottom where I divide the total by the number of months I have been working on the car. At the moment the monthly average figure is about SAR 1 800 (about UKPounds 145).This make me feel a bit better about the R50 000 I have in a car on which almost nothing is finished at the moment!

I do have almost all the mechanical bits, including some expensive parts like:

MSD ignition system
Electric water pump
Willwood brake parts
Full set guages
Custom machining of flywheel
Aluminium Coil Overs
Custom aluminium machined parts
13 row oil cooler, oil thermostat + remote filter mount parts
Sabelt seat belts


I also cheat by not including consumables like spray cans of paint, masking tape etc, and no tools.


Cheers

Fred W B

[Edited on 9/6/06 by Fred W B]

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