TheGecko
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 06:55 AM |
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I have a spreadsheet divided into subsections (eg Chassis, Suspension, Electrical, On Road etc) with all of the purchases, actual and projected. I
have two amount columns, one for spent and one for projected, so I have totals for spent to date and remainder to completion as well as an overall
total which drifts up and down as items get bought and shift from projected to actual columns.
The overall total is currently about $17k (Australian dollars) - a little under £7k or US$13k. This is for an own-design mid-engine clubman with
20-valve Corolla drivetrain and meeting Australian registration requirements.
Needless to say SWMBO does NOT get to see this spreadsheet 
Dominic
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ned
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 07:34 AM |
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ditto what nsdev says but i have spent a lot more. it also depends on how mnay of the tools you have before your build, i've probably spent at
least a grand on tools over the last 3-4 years during my build.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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natehall
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 08:09 AM |
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I have most tools required to work on cars with - engine hoist, all sockets spanners, pipe flarer, spring compressors, hub nut, various weights of
sledgehammers - various different crow bars etc etc etc
only thing i dont have yet is a welder 
If it aint broke, uprate it
if it is broke, uprate it
http://www.modders-uk.co.uk
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Marcus
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 10:49 AM |
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Bodywork is expensive UNLESS you trawl round the kit manufacturers for seconds. Parts with a gelcoat bubble or a slight crack are often available. The
only piece I paid full price for was my scuttle (MK).
In total, my bodywork cost £100, plus the cost of paint to get it all the same colour!
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 11/6/06 at 11:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
As per my thinking. Shiny bits are nice, but cost more than something I've made and painted. The only bits I can't make that I don't
already have are the new brake parts, lights and a couple of gauges. Everything else is being built or modified from something cheap or free.
The real trick is to make the shiny bits yourself, then you can have the best of both worlds!
In the pic I posted the stainless exhaust manifold was completely home made, the shiny inlet trumpets were straightened out ones that had been
flattened in a rolled rally car and the shiny ally spacers for the trumpets were turned from a free lump of solid ally. The caterham sump was bought
cheap secondhand, the concentric hydraulic clutch release mounting machined diy style again from a free lump of ally that was FAR too big, then
there's things like the type 9 gearbox that was £25 (paid £50 for two) the 3.62 lsd that was free.........................
the list goes on, most bits were done on the cheap one way or another but the budget still reaches £5500 because even diy stuff costs money if you use
decent materials etc.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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DIY Si
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| posted on 11/6/06 at 01:47 PM |
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All well and good if you happen to own a machine shop. For most of us mere mortals things have to be kept a little simpler, ie mild manifold, cable
clutch etc......
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 11/6/06 at 04:01 PM |
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What I am planning to do is build my car as cheap as possible and have it running/driving well. After that, look at whats left of my budget and then
see what upgrades I can do make it faster and better looking. How do budgets go again? First estimate, add $1000 and then double the total right?
Mine is going to be a low dollar car though. More a lesson in fabrication than anything. My real toys don't have a budget, just whats in the
bank .
Cheers.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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wildchild
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 09:03 AM |
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well I'm at about £1300 for a bare chassis and an engine!
time to get selling some of those surplus bits I seem to have accumulated!
I'd be quite pleased if it comes in under £3k. But I'd rather make it how I want than be too rigid on budget.
http://www.wildchild.org.uk
Build photos on Flickr
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DIY Si
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 09:25 AM |
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Don't get me wrong, I'm trying to be as tight as poss, but if I see something that will make a big difference to the way the car
looks/feels and I think it's worth investing in, I'll probably get it. Budgets always have a little extra hidden in somewhere. It's
mainly wether swmbo finds out or not!
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Dutchman
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| posted on 22/6/06 at 12:18 PM |
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wel so far I done everything on my own
600euro(400GBP) for chasis, forks and metalistic bushes and some tools
get the rear axcel and a trany from LADA as a gift
still have to by a welder that is the biggest expens for me ....
and waiting for some cache to buy engine from fiat 2.0 16v for 400euro and set of alloys with tyres for 400-500 euro ...
than we will se ... hope that it wont cost over 2000euro but betwen US here I think I allready spent 500on fuel to collect everithing in one place
....
Tarzan English with foreign accent!
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 22/6/06 at 01:08 PM |
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how much does a locost really cost ;)
Hi, I can tell you how he could build his cars for £250.
I visited him when he was still at Oundle School where he taught Automotive Engineering. This school specialises in Engineering and in its time has
turned out many very well known engineers. Many of the boys parents have engineering companies and a large proportion of the materials were donated
even donor vehicles. The school rented a small industrial unit and when I was there, I saw a smallscale production line of Locosts being built by 6th
Formers all very cheaply, probably within the £250 because of the donated stuff that was not included in the sums. Nevertheless, to give Ron his due,
his book has been an inspiration to many to get building and the car is in the best traditions of the 750MC. So, Good on yer Ron, I say.
John
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