JoaoCaldeira
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 01:24 PM |
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2003 R1: How to wire tach to Digidash2
Hi.
I've read a lot about problems having a good rpm read on the DD2.
Is there anyone with a defenitive answer?
Which wires to where?
Thanks in advance,
Joao
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progers
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 01:49 PM |
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Call ETB they should have the definitive answer
- paul
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R1 STRIKER
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 06:42 PM |
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Take the signal from pin 8 on the ecu. Have just done this with mine and works fine. Believe it's injectors rather than coils.
Ben.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:16 PM |
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I took a feed for my Digidash (original) off one of the coilpack trigger wires, works fine and not sure why people have had problems TBH
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R1 STRIKER
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 12:13 AM |
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Yes , I also took feed from coils with my old dash (not digi dash). I only switched to pin 8 on ecu after speaking with ETB. Nether tried digi dash
from coils.
Ben.
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Coose
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 05:02 PM |
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A friend os having the same problem with his digi dash 2 in an R1 Mini. Bearing in mind that it was wired from the coils, the output to coil 4 failed
from the ECU!
He's fitted another ECU today and disconnected the digi dash and all seems well. ETB also said to him to pick up from an injector feed, but why
don't they use the original tacho feed?
Spin 'er off Well...
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tks
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 09:40 PM |
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good question!
altough it depends on the nature of the circuit.
The original tacho feed will be created by a transistor and will be almost a square wave signal for every fire event.
The voltage on the neg side of the coil..
do always spark (as high as 100volts)
and that spark is filtered out by the digidash..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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furyblade35
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 02:00 PM |
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Just to clarify some things on the R1 pickup.
The R1 ECU tacho output multiplexes other error code information onto this wire so cannot be used as an RPM source.
The DD2 and DD1 have been used on many R1 installations without a problem on coil pickup or injector pickup.
However, the drive signal to the R1 coils packs is actually very different to all other bike engines I have come cross, and I have seen differences
for model year.
But there is always an option to go off the injection drive or coil.
I know off the R1 Mini and this was nothing to do with instrumentation but it actually was a failed ECU. The dash input for RPM is completely passive.
Nice looking car as well.
Any questions then just give ETB a call.
Cheers,
Alistair.
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Coose
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 06:15 PM |
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Fair comment about the standard tacho feed.
If the Mini you're talking about is white, then I know all about the ECU failure as it was me who diagnosed it (and found the replacement)! My
concern is maybe that the Digidash took out the ECU, as R1 ECU's NEVER fail....
I'm going to have a look to see where the tacho is presently connected and will move it to one of the injectors.
[Edited on 13/6/06 by Coose]
Spin 'er off Well...
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Coose
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 06:18 PM |
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p.s. I've just noticed your website link - I assume that you're linked to ETB in some way? If so, we may be speaking some time in the
future.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
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furyblade35
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 06:38 PM |
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Hi Coose,
I do all the design work for ETB and generally test all the kit out on my race and road cars.
It was a white mini! I called around to see the chap building and eventually had a scope on the coil feed wires.
The way the coils are driven is different from year to year, hence some R1 owners have no problems at all and some do.
ETB do an inexpensive conditioning block for the R1 to deal with this drive signal should you want to go off the coils....
Or you can go off the injection wires. That's what aftermarket kit like the TFI and power commanders do also.
Hope this helps and that's what ETB do best by offering max value for money and good customer service.
Remember any features you would like adding to the dash need to be emailed to ETB, then built into future releases that you can have programmed into
your existing dash for free! (usual handling + post/package).
So you can keep your original dash upto date with the latest features!
Cheers,
Al.
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RichieC
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 11:03 AM |
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Sorry to be a biff then, which wires are the safest option to take the feed from then?
I had planned to use the yellow/black (I think) [2001 R1] but I understand it is this feed which would go to the bike tacho which has the duplexed ECU
fault info on it. Are the red/black and orange wires into the coil packs no good?
Thanks for some clarification
Rich
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Ferrino
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 11:41 AM |
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The red/black into the coils is the power feed and the orange and grey wires are the earths which get switched by the CDi (I think), so you'd
need to tap into the orange or grey wire. Someone pls correct me if I'm talking crap 
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furyblade35
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 01:24 PM |
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Coil packs are fine as are the injections wires.
However, some R1 ECU/Coil Packs are driven in such a way that may not trigger the DD input.
Option
1) Use coils. Most R1 installs do work OK. However there are some that do not.
2) Use injection wires. Fine also.
3) Use R1 coil conditioning block. (Inexpensive unit from ETB to clean up the R1 coil drive signal.)
Any questions then call ETB they are there to help. 01702 711127
Cheers,
Al.
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