Ferrino
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:03 PM |
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1st Gear Clunk
So I moved the car under it's own power (just into the garage!) and I am aware that there is supposed to be a clunk when you go from Neutral
into 1st, to do with the dog engagement. But is it normal for the car to jolt forward ever so slightly when it engages (clutch pedal fully pressed)?
I thought that with the clutch fully disengaged that there was no way it could transmit to the prop?
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Howlor
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:05 PM |
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Fairly normal. Bike clutch differs from a car clutch as when it is fully depressed it has to use the torque to separate the drive plates.
Steve
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skydivepaul
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:09 PM |
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The car will normally clunk forward a little.
try this:
select neutral
depress the clutch and leave the the clutch in for about 20 - 30 seconds
selectfirst gear.
Mine will slip into first without a clunk when you do this, although it is not always practical when out driving.
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zxrlocost
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:14 PM |
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mine sometimes clunks forward as above
and sometimes goes in so smooth you cant tell
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richijenkin
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:17 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by zxrlocost
mine sometimes clunks forward as above
and sometimes goes in so smooth you cant tell
Thats what my misses tells me sometimes.
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stevebubs
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:33 PM |
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yup
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gary gsx
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:38 PM |
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My bike does it its to do with the clutch plates as already been said its worse when chains loose but you dont have a chain
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stevec
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posted on 30/6/06 at 12:53 PM |
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Idle speed will also be a factor, The higher the idle speed the bigger chance of a clunk.
Steve.
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Coose
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posted on 30/6/06 at 01:07 PM |
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Yep, all of the above! My dry-clutched TZ250 does it dreadfully unless you almost stall it....
They all do that sir!
p.s. Glad you've finally had it moving!
Spin 'er off Well...
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Hellfire
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posted on 30/6/06 at 03:27 PM |
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Good news to get it under it's own power... ain't it great?
The clunk is typical but can be reduced by installing a TRT (Torque resiliant Tube) which is basically a cushion between your gearbox and
differential. This will lead to increased life of your gearbox selectors and drive dogs which is always a mute point in BEC's.
The clunk into reverse shouldn't be a problem though
Steve
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tks
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posted on 30/6/06 at 03:44 PM |
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it will depend
on engine speed:
oil temp
engine temp
and offcourse clutch state...
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Peteff
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posted on 30/6/06 at 05:01 PM |
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a mute point in BEC's
It's a moot point as well, see here . My shaft drive bike does it but it's worse
with the brake on as it tries to move the wheel so if you are rolling try to get into first then stop.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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tks
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posted on 30/6/06 at 05:31 PM |
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Its just
that in a bec its hard to become rolling...
on the bike your feets touch ground...
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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zetec7
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posted on 30/6/06 at 05:49 PM |
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This is normal. My Kawasaki Concours does it, as have all my shaft-driven bikes. On chain-driven bikes it's sometimes not as noticable,
becasue there's slack in the chain to be taken up...once it's shaft-driven, the clunk goes directly to the wheels. The clunk is from
friction within the clutch basket & plates. It will be better when the oil is warm, worse when the engine is cold.
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Ferrino
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posted on 30/6/06 at 10:19 PM |
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Thankyou chaps! (BTW, I have a TRT in the rear prop).
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