caber
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 posted on 8/7/06 at 08:58 PM |
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Chassis paint
Just been through the search on this people seem to have used Hammerite Smoothrite, Chassis Black and Por 15 as well as powder coat. I was going to
powdercoat however it seem inevitable that there will be some welding required aaafter I have done finishing so I am officially off the idea of powder
coat. I was wondering how people have got on with the finishes they chose?
I tried a small area with aerosol smoothrite today and the finish looks like what I want, I am pretty sure I can get it off again with an angle
grinder wire brush for any late welding. any comments or advice appreciated!
Caber
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Gav
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| posted on 8/7/06 at 09:05 PM |
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Smootherite should be renamed chiprite, its for painting rusty old fences and thats where it should stay.
Por 15 seems good but expensive.
Ive gone for Rust Olm, this was recommended to me after having a chat with a guy at the local nut&bolt shop, ive already done my diff, dedion and
wishbones with the stuff and you can get a very good finish with spraying it, seems very good once its been left to dry and harded for a week after
several coats, i also used the Rust Olm primer which resembles engineers blue!.
I should be spraying the rest of my chassis hopefully next week ill post some pics with the results.
Oh i was also going to wax-oil the floor
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caber
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| posted on 8/7/06 at 09:16 PM |
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Gav, anytime I try and waxoyl anthing the garage floor seems the major beneficiary:-)
Caber
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/7/06 at 10:02 PM |
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Coming very close on my to do list.
I dont fancy the powder coat as its hard to find some one I trust. Look at the grief Pat has just had.
Por 15 to much dosh.
Look forward to your results/pics Gav.
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RazMan
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| posted on 8/7/06 at 11:07 PM |
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I had my chassis powder coated in silver  and touched in the inevitable 'oops I forgot that bracket' with silver Smoothrite which
was a very close match. I have heard some bad things about Smoothrite / Hammerite and doubt that it is any good for a whole chassis but touch-ups
should be fine - especially if they are a little rusty.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 01:08 AM |
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Many people have used the standard "Chassis Black" paint from e.g. Frosts with good results. A few have even used exterior grade gloss
paint and have been pleased with the durability and finish.
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hector
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:00 AM |
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I used gloss black garage door enamel from International, its an excellent finish as long as you prepare properly, no brush marks they flow out.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:24 AM |
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A crap finish is usually the result of poor preparation of the metal surface. Regardless of what you use.
If you powder coat, have the chassis sand / shot blasted first. The extra expense will make it stick like Sh*t to a blanket. In not it will peel off
like mine is doing. Again it could have been prepped better. I would pay that little bit extra to get it done right. Not the cheapest option, but
done right, probably the best.
Hammerite and smoothrite are very good, but do go off hard and will chip. Again, good prepping or a nice rusty surface for the paint to key onto works
wonders.
Waxoyl inside tubes etc any where you drill a hole. It will help prevent it from rusting inside. Messy stuff.. but worth the effort. Put a cheapo
polytarp down first if doing the whole car, and discard afterwards.
Warm the tin in a bucket of HOT Water.
And / Or Cut it with 10 - 15% white spirit, it makes it creep better inside, but takes longer to dry out /set.
DO NOT use a flame, its quite inflamable.
150Psi behind a Parrafin Cleaning gun filled with Waxoyl, Then add a flame, at the nozzle end and it will give you a 8ft range Flamethrower... Guess
how I know that.. And its dangerous! 
Get a couple of large ish syringes with nozzles smaller than 3/4mm (no needles) and squirt it through the 3/4mm holes you drill for the rivets..
tedious, but well worthy the effort. Also cleaner than using their spray it everywhere gun.
Thats my 2d worth
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Danozeman
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 12:58 PM |
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I used black enamel. A couple of coats and its hard wearing as long as u let the first coat go off properly. Cheap too. I know some people use
household gloss.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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kb58
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 06:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I dont fancy the powder coat as its hard to find some one I trust. Look at the grief Pat has just had.
You're using only one data point as the general case?
I've had nothing but good experience with my powdercoat, and powdercoater.
There, that cancels the bad news, so now you're free to use it.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:16 PM |
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Why not use chassis black - guess what its best at, and yes, its black!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Peteff
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 11:47 PM |
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I got some paint from Aldi at £3.99 a litre, King colour metal paint. I got a silver and a black and am impressed with it. It's easy to apply,
two thin coats covers well and it stands up to knocks, dries fairly quickly as well and it doesn't stink the place out. They only have it in
occasionally though but it's worth getting a couple for stock at that price.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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datz510
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| posted on 10/7/06 at 07:17 AM |
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I'd highly recommend a good aerosol engine enamel. Its a bit thicker, so is a little more durable.
That is the route I'll be going for my chassis. I've used a number of differentkinds of paints on my projects and the engine enamel seems
to hold up the best.
Hang on, we're goin for a ride!
1972 Datsun 510 (1600) w/ 200hp 3.0L V6
1995 Nissan Pathfinder rock crawler
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big_wasa
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| posted on 11/7/06 at 02:01 PM |
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Nope ive had loads done But woulnt trust them to do a good job on the chassis.
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I dont fancy the powder coat as its hard to find some one I trust. Look at the grief Pat has just had.
You're using only one data point as the general case?
I've had nothing but good experience with my powdercoat, and powdercoater.
There, that cancels the bad news, so now you're free to use it.
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tks
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| posted on 11/7/06 at 04:20 PM |
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i had the same problem
i just sanded a bit the floors...
then i first sprayed down a layer of Inox (stainless) spray...it dries while watching and generates a very sticky untherground for every paint i have
tried on it.....
altough it could be pricey stuff..
Tks
ahh every hole i drilled was first shotted with the pu gun then the bracket and screw went in..sow its air/water closed...
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 11/7/06 at 05:21 PM |
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I too have been really pleased with powder coating. Having moved from Bedfordshire to Devon, I now have experience with two powder coaters both of
whom are excellent. If you are going to have your chassis powder coated it should first be shot blasted and here, I am lucky as the powder coater can
do the blasting as well. It is important to powder coat immediately after shot blasting otherwise the unprotected metal will start to rust very
quickly. Another point worth mentioning is to make sure that where panels are going to be fitted welds are dressed back to allow the panels to fit
flat against the chassis tubes. I speak from experience here, it is very easy to miss one or two and then it is a hard decision to take the angle
grinder to your pristine painted chassis.
I have also used chassis paint that is available from Motor Factors and have good results with that. A friend sprayed his chassis with it nearly ten
years ago now and it is still bright and in excellent condition.
John
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Gav
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| posted on 8/9/06 at 07:55 PM |
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Finally got the chassis painted, quite pleased considering ive never sprayed anything before.
I used Rust Olem
pic Here
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caber
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| posted on 9/9/06 at 03:26 AM |
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I went for silver smoothrite sprayed on diluted 1:2 with hammerite thinners. I am glad I did this as I am already looking at welded ammendments and
this is going to be easier with paint than powder coat and I thinK patch up will also be better!
Caber
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