Robster
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| posted on 25/7/06 at 11:30 AM |
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Steering Boss Weld
Hi all,
I have a quick release steering wheel boss, which I have had welded to my Sierra column, see pic. I'm not sure though whether I should have cut
the top few cm of the column off & then had it welded, so that the top of the column was the same diameter as the boss slug... I'm nervous
that as they are not the same diameter, the weld won't be as strong. Thoughts?
I don't know if the column material is any thicker on the wider part of the column, or whether it is taper inside as well as out - if this is
the case, does it make any difference???
Cheers,
Rob.
Pic is in archive, I can;'t work out how to attach it...
[Edited on 25/7/06 by Robster]
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iank
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| posted on 25/7/06 at 11:52 AM |
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Here ya go.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 25/7/06 at 12:05 PM |
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Well, as nobody is commenting I'll put in my pennth!
I wouldn't do it like that, is the brief abridged answer!
Two things, one the diameter is a bit small, two the weld is single plane (i.e. 90 degrees the the shaft)
In reality you "almost certainly" will be fine, but belt and braces with the steering is always good.
As John beardmore is always pointing out, steering is the one thing you need on a car, no brakes etc are worrying but no steering is VERY bad!
When I weld these bosses on (speaking personally again) I bore them out and turn the column to press inside the bored out spline fitting, then saw off
the bottom of the spline fitting at 45 degrees, press the two together then weld round the slash cut line.
Taking my nomal blase view though, it's extremely unlikely to break, so there you go, clear as mud!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 25/7/06 at 12:31 PM |
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As John beardmore is always pointing out, steering is the one thing you need on a car, no brakes etc are worrying but no steering is VERY bad!
I totally agree with NS Dev on this one. Belt and definitely braces for steering. I think the spigot socket idea of his is excellent and if you can
get a couple of roll pins in, even better.
John
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JAG
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| posted on 25/7/06 at 01:49 PM |
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If you're worried and you obviously are then;
Carefully drill through the slug where it fits over the steering column, make sure you breakthrough to the column. Do this in a couple of places and
then 'puddle' weld these holes up. 8mm holes should do it fine.
That will add extra weld strength and provide a mechanical locking effect in case the first weld breaks. Similar action to NS Dev slash cut.
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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Robster
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 11:54 AM |
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Thx for the responses guys, I thought the answer might be "not like that"!
If I follow the drill some holes & puddle weld option, would it not be just as easy to put a couple of bolts through?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 05:04 PM |
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I never like the bolt and weld combination, not nice engineering. Again it will work just fine, but, basically only one or the other is actually doing
anything!
When its welded it will then not move enough to put the bolt in shear. Yes if the weld breaks the bolt should prevent a crash but i'd rather it
just didn't break to start with!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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coozer
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 09:46 PM |
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The ones we make now for the Mondeo have the same kind of hex on the end and yes the inside of the tube tapers out the same as the outside.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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