auzziejim
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 08:29 PM |
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etb fuel sender fitting
just opened my new dd2 lite and had a look at everything as you do. just a little worried about the fuel sender, im a little unsure of what to do with
the arm. it looks far too long for the mk tank. now bending doesnt seem an option as the max level is in line with the top of the tank and therefore
the mounting of the sender. i thought about chopping and re bending the arm but dont wanna screw it up
so...how has everyone else done it? any pics? or should i just bite the bullet and chop away
also once glueing/bonding etc etc the speed sensor magnets to the prop will normal electrical tape as a belt and braces method hinder the sensor
working
many thanks
james
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DIY Si
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 08:31 PM |
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The float should be able to slide up and down the arm, maybe attached/held in place by a couple of little bolts/screws?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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dilley
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 08:46 PM |
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Im also in the process of fitting a dd I left the origional sender in for now as it seems to be reading correct at 75% I dipped the tank and it was
the same, Although Im not sure if its going to work at different levels but time will tell, my fuel pickup is built into the sender so I thought I
would try and see what happens.
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j_davis
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 08:46 PM |
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If it's like mine the float can't move. What I did was cut the arm in two and then use an electrical 'chocolate block'
connector to reattach them, which allowed me to slide it through until I got the required length.
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bigrich
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 09:16 PM |
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if its the same sender as dd1 then all i did was bend it in a series of v's(about 3 if memory serves me) so it shortens the arm but doesn,t
alter the swing.
the cut and join method also works.
as for the magnets i used 2 part arraldite onto clean diff flange then when cured painted over with smoothrite, somehave used gaffa tape with good
sucsess after bonding.
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auzziejim
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 09:27 PM |
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cheers so the length can alter, so...i could cut it measure the correct length and lay the 2 parts together and weld them
however a sliding choccy block method would allow for a screw up and mean it can be rectified, but will it be ok in petrol?
cheers
james
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robinj66
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| posted on 11/10/06 at 10:11 PM |
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Take off the outer plastic bit and just use the metal inner
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stevebubs
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| posted on 12/10/06 at 08:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bigrich
if its the same sender as dd1 then all i did was bend it in a series of v's(about 3 if memory serves me) so it shortens the arm but doesn,t
alter the swing.
the cut and join method also works.
as for the magnets i used 2 part arraldite onto clean diff flange then when cured painted over with smoothrite, somehave used gaffa tape with good
sucsess after bonding.
That's what I did, also
Stephen
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