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Author: Subject: Fitting mesh to bodywork
RazMan

posted on 22/10/06 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
Fitting mesh to bodywork

I've got some of the Lockwood stainless mesh to fit to various orifices and I'm trying to figure out the best way to fit the stuff.



The problem is that is has horrendous sharp edges so I think it needs an edging strip of some sort to cover them before screwing it to the bodywork - has anyone found the trick of using this stuff?

[Edited on 22-10-06 by RazMan]





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Raz

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Mark Allanson

posted on 22/10/06 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
most people bond it in from the inside





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flak monkey

posted on 22/10/06 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
Stick it on from the back of the panel using P45 filler or glass matt and resin. Probably the neastest way to do it.

David





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RazMan

posted on 22/10/06 at 11:52 AM Reply With Quote
I could attach it permanently using resin & matting but I will need to be to remove it when the front splitter gets damaged (as it inevitably will at some point) so I was hoping to use self tappers into ally angle around each hole. This leaves a razor sharp edge which needs a kind of U section to cover it. Does lightweight stainless U section exist?





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Raz

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 12:22 PM Reply With Quote
Not necessarily stainless, but if you look in the motorcycle section of Halford, they do an edging for screens that comes in various metallic colours.

I think it's foil backed plastic, but should do the job and look good too.

Linky

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omega 24 v6

posted on 22/10/06 at 12:46 PM Reply With Quote
What bout rivetting on some tyrap sticky pad peices to the inside of the panel and then ty rap the mesh in place.
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RazMan

posted on 22/10/06 at 12:58 PM Reply With Quote
Excellent ideas guys!
The edging looks like it should do the job nicely and will look very bling too
The cable tie anchors would be a good removable system, although I have found the self adhesive variety invariably fall off when stuck on exterior bodywork. I might try some PU adhesive instead of the sticky pads - that should hold them.







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Raz

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triumphdave

posted on 22/10/06 at 01:40 PM Reply With Quote
the problem I found with the stainless mesh is it starts to fall apart if all the edges are not welded.





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RazMan

posted on 22/10/06 at 02:31 PM Reply With Quote
The stuff I've got seems to stay together really well unless you try and make some weird and wonderful shapes to get around pipes etc.

I've just made an experimental mesh panel using some edge trim I had spare - works a treat Rescued attachment Mesh Panel.jpg
Rescued attachment Mesh Panel.jpg






Cheers,
Raz

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Humbug

posted on 22/10/06 at 04:27 PM Reply With Quote
I used stainless mesh for my nose grill. I think as long as you don't make the pieces too small they should hold together. My solution to fixing was to glass some bolts on the inside of the nose hole, then bolt through the mesh and do them up with nylocs.

Also, I put trim on the edge of the hole, rather than on the mesh, as the mesh was overlapping the edges on the inside of the hole. I guess it depends on the shape/angle of the holes you need to fiull with mesh.

FYI, here are some pics of:

1. one of the bolts... you can also see the edge trim (the cut edge of the nose faces inwards in my case)

[img]http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=2006-02-17%201%20ST%20bolt%20glassed%20inside%20nose%20cone%20closeup.jpg[/ img]

2. the grill fitted



Bum! pics don't seem to be working, but you can see them in my archive

Cheers

[Edited on 22.10.2006 by Humbug]

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 04:28 PM Reply With Quote
Looks good, but maybe a smaller profile edge trim?
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RazMan

posted on 22/10/06 at 04:50 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Humbug
I put trim on the edge of the hole, rather than on the mesh, as the mesh was overlapping the edges on the inside of the hole.




I don't really want to put trim around the hole as I think it will look cleaner without. I see from your pics that you have left the sharp wire ends exposed and this is what I am trying to avoid - I am sure to catch something on them when the front & rear sections are hinged open.

StevieB - yep you are right, a smaller edging would be better. I just had this stuff in my odds'n'ends box to test the theory.





Cheers,
Raz

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 04:56 PM Reply With Quote
An admirable piece of work though - I was pondering the grille for my MK (I have an MK grille, but it's no good for SVA and everyone's got one - too common!).

Now I know the way forward!

I had thought of using this type of mesh, but figured it would come apart when cut due to being intertwined, rather than expanded metal

[Edited on 22/10/06 by StevieB]

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Humbug

posted on 22/10/06 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
An admirable piece of work though - I was pondering the grille for my MK (I have an MK grille, but it's no good for SVA and everyone's got one - too common!).

Now I know the way forward!

I had thought of using this type of mesh, but figured it would come apart when cut due to being intertwined, rather than expanded metal

[Edited on 22/10/06 by StevieB]


... a piece big enough for a grill seems to be fine - there are enough "intertwined" bits to mean that it doesn't unravel... at least it hasn't so far! I tried to cut a piece small enough to fit in my bonnet scoop opening bit it just fell apart, but in that case the maximum height is only about 3-4 squares

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RazMan

posted on 22/10/06 at 09:49 PM Reply With Quote
If I stand on the other side of the room I can just about see it !!

Nice job ...... just a bit erm .... big





Cheers,
Raz

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mad dad

posted on 24/10/06 at 08:15 AM Reply With Quote
just a thought would the mesh hold behind the gap on an MK bonnet with a bulge with windscreen adhesive as i may have some left over from sticking the wings on or does it need to be a more secure fixing and this is a daft question!!!, Cheers






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StevieB

posted on 24/10/06 at 08:48 AM Reply With Quote
Should be ok - it's not under any stress. Sikaflex might be better - you can get it fairly cheap on ebay (just got my new tube in the post this morning in fact)
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RazMan

posted on 24/10/06 at 09:01 AM Reply With Quote
Definitely go with Sikaflex (or any other PU adhesive) Silicone sealant is not as strong - plus you can't paint it. PU can be 'sculpted' to a degree too, to make spacers and fill-in strips.





Cheers,
Raz

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ian furness

posted on 24/10/06 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
mesh

dont be cheeky ha ha
how do you make them smaller

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RazMan

posted on 24/10/06 at 03:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ian furness
dont be cheeky ha ha
how do you make them smaller


Check out PIXresizer at http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm





Cheers,
Raz

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RazMan

posted on 24/10/06 at 05:31 PM Reply With Quote
Much better





Cheers,
Raz

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Fred W B

posted on 24/10/06 at 05:50 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Raz

Looking at that pic reminded me that someone on here (hellfire?) posted a detail a while ago where they made a stepped wood former the same shape as the hole in the panel, and then embossed a joggle on the edge of the mesh so that when fitted into the hole cut in the panel the outside face of the mesh sat flush with the top surface of the panel, if you can see what I mean

the difference in the visual result was amazing.

Regards

Fred W B

[Edited on 24/10/06 by Fred W B]

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RazMan

posted on 24/10/06 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
Yes I remember the thread, but iirc he used expanded alloy mesh which is fairly easy to form into shapes. The stainless stuff broke my wire cutters so I've got no hope of joggling it!





Cheers,
Raz

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