the moa 2
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posted on 3/1/07 at 03:17 PM |
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zx12-r dry sump plumbed up wrong
Well i started the engine the other day only for a second mind as the oil pressure was showing 50-60 psi which obviously wasnt right it turned out the
sender unit wasnt earthed as being remote mounted it wasnt getting an earth from the engine.
I earthed the gauge and it showed 0 which is more like it, tried turning engine over again and the gauge didnt move so now im worried and so gave Pace
a ring to see if everything is present and correct with the dry sump system...
Turns out i have plumbed it up wrong which is to say the least a bit annoying as the hose and fittings wern't cheap and to route them wasnt easy
either.
Pace have been helpful so far and i am led to beleive there are gonna help us out with swapping any fittings i may need to change.
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dilley
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posted on 3/1/07 at 03:44 PM |
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What did you do wrong?
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G.Man
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posted on 3/1/07 at 04:22 PM |
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Pace dry sump kit is a pain to fit, especially routing all the aeroquip fittings...
Wish there was an easier way, if I can help at all let me know..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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dilley
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posted on 3/1/07 at 04:59 PM |
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the pipes dont bend very easy
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carlgeldard
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posted on 3/1/07 at 05:44 PM |
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And I was going to ask you for help with the plumbing!!!!!! What did you do wrong as fitting the hoses is one of my next jobs.
Also how do you measure the BSP fitting is it the thread size or the internal hole I/D
Carl
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carlgeldard
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posted on 3/1/07 at 06:03 PM |
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This is a good site for anybody thinking about dry sumping a ZX12
What does the inside of a dry sump tank look like.
Cheers Carl
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G.Man
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posted on 4/1/07 at 06:10 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by carlgeldard
This is a good site for anybody thinking about dry sumping a ZX12
What does the inside of a dry sump tank look like.
Cheers Carl
Excellent site for the sump and pump... kinda avoids the plumbing which makes you wonder..
Seriously tho, useful info... would have been even more useful 14 months ago, mind you I am reinstalling mine this weekend after the clutch
exploded... Mucho clutch basket and friction plate in the sump...
I cant begin to tell you how difficult it was to remove all the pipes....
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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carlgeldard
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posted on 4/1/07 at 07:46 AM |
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Have you got any photos as I need to know/confirm what pipe goes were.
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the moa 2
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posted on 4/1/07 at 09:39 AM |
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Pace have now faxed my a diagram which i will post on here soon (just need to scan it).
But basically i plumbed my oil cooler in between the tank and the pump and it should apparently be in between the scavage return line.
I explained this to my Dad who doesn't think its gonna make any difference especially with oil pressure as there should still be a constant flow
of oil .
But im not one to argue with pace especially as i bought everything from them so they should know how it is put together.
Will post the pic shortly.
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G.Man
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posted on 4/1/07 at 10:38 AM |
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Just want to get this straight...
You plumbed the cooler in the feed from the tank to the pump...
Mine is plumbed between the pump and the tank on the return line to the tank...
You still have the oil/water heat exchanger in the main pressure feed anyway, so in reality, the cooler can fit anywhere in the "low
pressure" part of the system, but obviously better in the return line to the tank as this then cools the oil held in the tank... and doesnt
hinder supply to the pump.
You can then put your oil temp gauge sender in the tank...
[Edited on 4/1/07 by G.Man]
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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carlgeldard
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posted on 4/1/07 at 11:11 AM |
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Gman
I was going to put mine from the lower rear union on the pump that goes to the top of the tank. But then I don't know what goes were as I
don't have any instructions yet.
Carl
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G.Man
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posted on 4/1/07 at 12:49 PM |
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Carl
thats where mine is plumbed...
On the return feed to the top of the tank
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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the moa 2
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posted on 4/1/07 at 11:40 PM |
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It sounds dumb i know but yeah i did plumb it into the pressurised part but i was only doing as told over the phone from pace obviously some wires got
crossed but this is not something i would have just listened to willey nilley.
Anyways the diagram would have help if supplied with the kit. I didnt have a chance today but will post up tommorrow.
G.Man
How have you put your oil temp sender in the tank ?
Was some alloy welding required ?
Also can i ask what you did with the crank case breather with regards to any sort of one way pressure valve?
Cheers
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G.Man
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posted on 5/1/07 at 06:38 AM |
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mini k&n style filters on the tank/crankcase breathers
Just to stop them sucking in dust..
oil temp is just a boss welded into the tank...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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G.Man
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posted on 5/1/07 at 08:27 AM |
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PS. Forgot to say, you can attach the crankcase breather to the klean air intake on the rocker cover..
That is "alledged" to give a few bhp gains, however, I closed off my klean air system because the back fires on overrun were too big and
the headers got VERY hot...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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the moa 2
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posted on 5/1/07 at 09:20 AM |
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So there was no kinda of valve on the crank case breather as i remember speaking with Pace a few months ago and apparently they fit one, i will be
speaking with them again soon so will double check.
Here is the pic as requested:
[Edited on 7/1/07 by the moa 2]
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carlgeldard
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posted on 5/1/07 at 03:42 PM |
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Just as I expected, but what does the -10 and -12 stand for and how close is close for the tank location.
Cheers Carl
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Guinness
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posted on 5/1/07 at 03:46 PM |
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Just a guess, but does the -12 and -10 refer to the Jap thread sizes for the connections? JIC dash sizes?
See http://www.speedflow.co.uk for info?
HTH
Mike
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G.Man
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posted on 5/1/07 at 03:48 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Guinness
Just a guess, but does the -12 and -10 refer to the Jap thread sizes for the connections? JIC dash sizes?
See http://www.speedflow.co.uk for info?
HTH
Mike
You are correct..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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G.Man
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posted on 6/1/07 at 09:33 AM |
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Can I ask you zx12r guys what water pump you are using?
Mine, which is a bosch, might not be up to the job...
Thanks in advance..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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iiyama
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posted on 6/1/07 at 10:13 AM |
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This may be dumb question, but here goes!
Why do you want the tempreature of the oil in the tank? Wont that be the coolest area? Would have thought you would want to see the high tempreature
areas??? Surely it dosent matter how cool the oil is, but how hot?
Or am I being blonde?
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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G.Man
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posted on 6/1/07 at 10:41 AM |
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For me, its about seeing the temperature of the oil that is about to enter the engine... Not how hot it is as it leaves the engine and heads off to
the oil cooler...
Essentially, I guess it doesnt really matter, as you just adjust your mind to deal with a higher or lower max temperature based on the position of the
sender...
I suppose it would be good to install the temp sender in the dry sump pan, but i was concerned that the highly effective scavenging would remove too
much oil to make this viable...
Anyway, Marc Norden suggested the oil tank as the best place, so that's what I went with...
Its very simple to move it if need be...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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G.Man
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posted on 6/1/07 at 10:43 AM |
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http://www.pellgenesis.com/Apr-04a.htm
he has done the same with his zx12r racer..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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the moa 2
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posted on 7/1/07 at 01:19 AM |
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I am using the "Craaaaiiigg David" or smething like that Electric water pump and controller.
I have no experience if it works well yet only time well tell. Something which we are having problems with at the moment is with the thermostat.
You have to take out the mechanical thermostat to enable a constant flow of water and replace it with a wire thing which goes into the top engine
block then comes out and you slip over your rubber water hose and after two attempts we cant seal it, it very slowly seeps out so as soon as theres
any presure its not gonna hold.
You probably dont understand what i said above but i will post a picture tommorrow.
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G.Man
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posted on 7/1/07 at 08:16 AM |
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Yep, I understand
used to do the same thing with other engines...
try some silicon sealant or teflon tape around the wire where the hose clamp will be..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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