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Author: Subject: Handbrake Cable Tightening Nightmare
rnichol_1

posted on 28/1/07 at 02:47 PM Reply With Quote
Handbrake Cable Tightening Nightmare

Really need some advice with this one, i have a ST Locoblade with live axle and RS2000 rear drums, i am using a single handbrake cable and retaining the original bar that runs along the back of the axle to the other drum. Without the hanbrake attached i have the brakes set up perfectly with the fronts locking just before the rears, as soon as i attach the cable it all goes wrong, I cant get the cable to tighten enough without it pulling the rear brakes so they bind so much you cant move the car, when i loosen the cable so the car can be moved the rear brakes do apply with the hanbrake but there is far to much movement in the lever, with it easily pulling to its max. How do i get a nice tight cable with minimal lever movement to apply, that doesnt leave my brakes binding badly?
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stevetzoid

posted on 28/1/07 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
I built my ST to race in the Locost championship, I used 2 sierra handbrake cables and through the old bar away. I got them from ST. I just thought it would be easier with individual adjustment.
Regards Steve Evans.

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britishtrident

posted on 28/1/07 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
(1) Make sure the self-adjusters inside the drums are working and fully adjusted up.

(2) Throw that dammed cross bar away -- they were nothing but bloody trouble on MK1 & MK2 Escorts, the rubber flap hinge thingy age harded and causes problems that make the handbrake only work properly on one side.



The trick a lot of garages used to use on Mk2 Escorts in the 80s was fit a late Marina or Ital handbrake cable --- this is more or less a straight replacement for the Escort cable only real difference is bar is replaced by a length of cable, just throwaway the bar and the rubber hinge and hold the outer cable with a large cable-tye NB this is exactly how it was supported on the Marina/Ital so should be fine for SVA

PS It has to be a very late Marina or Ital cable as early Marina cables aren't suitable as they also used the crossbar as per the Escort.


[Edited on 28/1/07 by britishtrident]

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rnichol_1

posted on 28/1/07 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
how can i be sure the self adjusters are working properly? all i can say is that everything that seems to move, moves nice and freely. but i have a funny feeling this may not be enough.
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Peteff

posted on 28/1/07 at 11:34 PM Reply With Quote
I have the bar still on my Capri axle and it's been no problem, I don't know what the rubber hinge thingy is as I haven't seen one on mine. Take your drum off and flick the self adjuster ratchet back with a flat screwdriver, put the drum back on and press the footbrake. Have you shortened the handbrake cable to suit the car, I had to cut mine down quite a bit and redo the handbrake end.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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rnichol_1

posted on 29/1/07 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
yeah ive shortened the cable loads so theres no chance of of any give from when it leaves the outer cable, i also have no idea wot the rubber hinge thing is. Do you ajust the ratchets so the drum pads are as far away from the inside of the drum as possible, i think i have tham right as they work fine without the cable and lever attached. this is doing my head in
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Peteff

posted on 29/1/07 at 09:04 PM Reply With Quote
I set mine so the drums would just go back on, they work when you press the footbrake to take up any more adjustment. Have you got something solid for the cable adjustment to pull against and have you modified the lever end. I welded a 1/2" long extension on mine where the cable fastens to give it more throw.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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rnichol_1

posted on 30/1/07 at 07:52 PM Reply With Quote
yeah i modded the lever so that its sits flat against the passenger side of the tunnel in between the seat, the cable slots throuch a pipe section so the screw adjusters but up against the pipe so there is plenty of tension, extending the lever is a great idea though at this rate i'll need a peice a foot long heh heh, problem is then i have to start changeing the position of were the cable comes through the back and there lots of framework and axle to get in the way but i reckon that may just work.
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britishtrident

posted on 31/1/07 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rnichol_1
yeah i modded the lever so that its sits flat against the passenger side of the tunnel in between the seat, the cable slots throuch a pipe section so the screw adjusters but up against the pipe so there is plenty of tension, extending the lever is a great idea though at this rate i'll need a peice a foot long heh heh, problem is then i have to start changeing the position of were the cable comes through the back and there lots of framework and axle to get in the way but i reckon that may just work.



Don't think you really understand the mechanism --- should be NO TENSION in the cable with the handbrake off. Tensioning the cable in the off position stops the hand brake being effective and prevents the selfadjusters from working -- first you must make sure the self-adjusters are run up and brake shoes centred before the cable can be connected and adjusted.

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