Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Killswitch wiring problems
andrews_45

posted on 11/2/07 at 11:09 PM Reply With Quote
Killswitch wiring problems

I had my ignition circuit all working without the killswitch. Now I have added this and neatened everything up I cannot get my engine to run and the coil is getting very hot.

Can somebody please scan in a diagram thet they have used to connect their ignition circuit in their 750mc locost racer.

I have the mk2 escort manual but it has the lights and all bumpf. I just want to see the engine side of the circuit, with the FIA killswitch in place.

Many thanks in advance

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
andrews_45

posted on 11/2/07 at 11:11 PM Reply With Quote
If anybody can show me what the internal circuitry is in the kill switch is it would be a big help. Ta
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
procomp

posted on 12/2/07 at 08:13 AM Reply With Quote
Hi i know this is going to sound stupid but try putting a 2mm thick washer in to the hole then put the key in and try that .

All that this achiving is to push the plunger further in as there have been problems with some units having a lack of pressure on the internal contact and it gives allsorts of untraceable problems .

cheers matt

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
macnab

posted on 12/2/07 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
coils aways get really hot if the ignition is left on, not sure why as they are cool when its running






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
stevetzoid

posted on 12/2/07 at 02:40 PM Reply With Quote
Hi There, make sure you have the poles wired the corrrect way on the kill switch, the one to the resistor should be on the normally closed contact when the switch is off. this allows the output from the alternator to be shorted to earth through the resistor thus stopping the engine.
When the switch is turned on the contact to the resistor opens and the one to the coil closes giving 12 volt to the coil, check the values with a meter. Make sure you have not disturbed any wiring when you were tidying up. Do you know how to use a multimeter? and have you got one.
Regards Steve Evans.

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
stevetzoid

posted on 12/2/07 at 02:48 PM Reply With Quote
I forgot to say, I think the coil gets hot because with 12 volts applied to it if the contact to the distributor or electronic box is closed the a current will flow through the coil making it get hot. It is only when the contact is switched off through the distributor or electronic box that the high voltage gets created by the collapsing magnetic field in the coil.
Regards Steve Evans.

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
02GF74

posted on 12/2/07 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
like what stevetzoid said.

when runing, the points are closed for a shorted period (about 1/3? - related to dwell angle, must lookk it up) so les power is dissipated.

if you kleave the ignition on and the points are closed, then there have been instances of fried coils.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
andrews_45

posted on 12/2/07 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
I think I cracked it, in the re-wire my charge light went to earth by mistake! Engine now runs, have a problem with feed to the gauges though. Off back into garage now to figure it out. Will post an update later
Ta

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.