uklee70
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 11:07 AM |
|
|
Electric water pump
Good Morning all
After my third trackday with overheating problems I need your help.
I have increased rad size, pipe bore, removed thermostat and still no luck
the car runs a few laps at a good temp then just boils up not a steady increase.
I'm thinking that a electric booster pump will be the next thing Davies Craig pumps are all I know.
I have spoken to someone cant remember who and they said that volvo have a booster pump on one of there models.
Also if I fit the davies craig pump do I have to remove the bike pump or make any modifications to the bike water pump
If I find a car version I can nip down to the scrappy and get one cheap and see if it works
Or should I bite the bullet and buy the davies craig from deamon thieves.
Any help would be great
Lee
|
|
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 11:09 AM |
|
|
you can buy these, I think carbuilder solutions have then as do EuropaSpecialist spares, not cheap and the switch is an expencive extra
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 11:20 AM |
|
|
what engine? what radiator?
have you checked the radiator cap is working? - they are spring loaded to increase pressure if the water so it bols at higher temp, about 110 C.
are pulleys (crank/WP) correct size? fan belt tight?
what is air path tinto and out of radiator like?
unless you have ridiculously small anbd obscured radiator, you shouldn;t be seeing these problkems at high speeds wheree you have forced air.
|
|
|
Phil.J
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 11:23 AM |
|
|
What a cracking little car!! Removing the thermostat from an engine is not usually a good idea as it disrupts the water flow through the cylinder head
and can leave localised hotspots. make sure that it is replaced with some sort of restrictor plate. Also, the radiator hole in the nose looks a bit
marginal on size.
The water pump will need to be good to cope with the extra flow of a rear engine/ front radiator layout. If you do choose to run a Davies Craig, this
should be instead of the standard pump not as well.
HTH
Phil
|
|
|
uklee70
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 11:25 AM |
|
|
Hi
Mid engine fiat 500 speester with a triumph Triple 955 bike engine
Rad is a 106 one the issue I think is the bike engine flowing enough water around hense the ewp being the next stop
Lee
|
|
|
DarrenW
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 11:47 AM |
|
|
Can you not try a new ali dual core rad or similar and possibly a more efficient fan first. Water wetter? Maybe even try increasing the air flow
around the engine - no idea how but just wondering if you could try something temporary first. Maybe a deflector under the car or a better way to get
the hot air back out.
Is the exhaust lagged to try and reduce under 'bonnet / boot lid' temps.Ive also heard of other people with cooling issues placing a cowel
around the rad so that all of the available air has to go thro the rad (Hellfire might have details on their buildsite of how they did this with
builders foam).
[Edited on 5/3/07 by DarrenW]
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 12:02 PM |
|
|
Hmmm.... Before you start looking at ways of curing the problem, I'd start looking at what is causing the problem in the first place!
The 955 copes without a problem in the bike, and it sounds like your rad would be big enough. Have a look at the plumbing - are you getting all of the
air out of the system? Is there anywhere that an airlock could occur? How good is the airflow across your rad? Where does the air go once it has hit
the rad - can it get out? Are the coolant pipes being heated by something else - i.e. do they run right next to exhaust?
Have a good look at what you have and what you can do to improve things before you start soending money. The car looks splendid by the way! 
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 12:07 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by uklee70
Hi
Mid engine fiat 500 speester with a triumph Triple 955 bike engine
Rad is a 106 one the issue I think is the bike engine flowing enough water around hense the ewp being the next stop
ok, you have something out of the ordinary here.
I would have thought the 106 (pug car?) rad is much bigger than bike rad so that should not be the problem?
have you measured water temp accurately to see if rad cap (or expansion cap) is working coreclty?
will it boil over when idling? if so, you can use this to try out different things - duno what mind.
with a car rad, bigger volume, the water will take longer to go through it than with smallere radiator - now is that a good or bad thing? (slower
travel means it gets cooled more but slower to return to engine - bear in mind newton's law where heat transfer is proportional to temp
difference so having slower water flow causes less heat to be removed than if it were going faster).
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 12:15 PM |
|
|
is ther any way you can find out of measure the flow rate of your bike pump and see how it compares to the EWP you are thinking of buying?
one ways I can think off.
1. have 2 large water butts, one full of water and some hose to connect to your engine; run at steady rpm and time for butt to fill 
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 02:55 PM |
|
|
I'd agree with the general consensus- IE best to sort out the airflow / ducting for the radiator first. After all, if you don't adding the
electric water pump won't do much- you'll just move the hot water around the system quicker!!!!
|
|
|
uklee70
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 03:24 PM |
|
|
Right Guys
Thanks for the advice
the car runs normal for 8 laps at cadwell the boils up !
but normal driving it is ok and tick over ok
The order for jobs to do is what ?
changing one thing at a time as then you knoe the benifit for that mod
shall I try water wetter as the first fix
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 03:27 PM |
|
|
Well it's not the cheapest option but it sure is quick!!! 
|
|
|
chriscook
|
| posted on 5/3/07 at 06:52 PM |
|
|
Ensure all the air has to go through the radiator if there is an easier path for it to take it will. Also make sure there is somewhere the hot air can
exit once it has passed through the radiator - ideally not through the floor.
What diameter pipes are you running to the radiator?
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 6/3/07 at 07:48 AM |
|
|
The air doesn't appear to have a path out from your rad into a low pressure area. As a result the air is stagnant around the rad it can't
dump the heat and the temperature will just build up.
For more help post some pictures of the rad installation, and boddy work.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 6/3/07 at 07:50 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by uklee70
snip
shall I try water wetter as the first fix
The problem is heat build up because the rad isn't transferring heat energy to to the atmosphere, nothing to do with the coolant.
[Edited on 6/3/07 by britishtrident]
|
|
|
