phil_far
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posted on 1/5/07 at 04:31 PM |
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This is unbelievable..probably the most unusual problem on this thread
All,
I went in my gargae with some spectators (ended up looking like an idiot) for my usual routine start up (893 Blade). I decided to take the plugs
out to clean them and spun the engine a couple of times as I haven't started it for the last two weeks. When I was re-intsalling them I noticed
that two kept on rotating freely (using my hand). I inserted a long nose and pulled the plugs out. To my disbelief the plugs threded part was sheared
off and now I have the threded part still inseretd in the head.
Q: Did anyone encounter such problem? The plugs are those recomended and they are brand new. I used them last fortnight to synchronise the crabs.
Beside scratching my head on how to take the threded part out without removing the head (well I have a plan) I am worried tahat this might happen
again.
Any help?
Philip
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BenB
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posted on 1/5/07 at 04:51 PM |
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That's a PITA! How R you going to get them out without either taking the head off or ending up with loads of metal in the engine....
Seems strange for that to occur- I'd try sending them back to the manafacturers [with explanation] and get some freebies (at the very least)...
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zxrlocost
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posted on 1/5/07 at 05:03 PM |
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youve probably overtightened the thread
and I wouldnt worry so much
2 weeks and you took the plugs out ?
most people leave the engines for a lot longer without a second thought
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smart51
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posted on 1/5/07 at 05:38 PM |
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I'd be worried that there are shards of metal in the cylinders.
Overtightening sounds like it may be the cause. Most things on an alloy block only need a few Nm. It isn't a lot at all.
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 1/5/07 at 05:40 PM |
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Yep sounds like you've overtightened them unfortunately Phil
Its realistically going to need the head taking off to ensure there's no metal in there, but at least the plugs threaded themselves, not the
head!
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ReMan
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posted on 1/5/07 at 05:52 PM |
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I think I understand this as, The plug has broken in half leaving the main body in the head, not I've strippeed the thread in the head, please
confirm........
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russbost
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posted on 1/5/07 at 06:12 PM |
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I think Reman is correct - in which case there would be no metal down the bores & a careful go with an easy out should remove the offending bit.
You've definitely overtightened them, quite lucky they didn't just blow themselves out of the engine as they must have been cracked almost
thro'
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 1/5/07 at 06:14 PM |
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Ah ok, if that is the case then yep you might get away without a head off
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Peteff
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posted on 1/5/07 at 06:40 PM |
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Is only the thread left in there?
Has the electrode come out with the hexagon on the porcelain? That's weird but you should be able to knock something into them and just turn
them out.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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zxrlocost
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posted on 1/5/07 at 06:55 PM |
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SORRY!! My original thread didnt mean not to worry about whats happened now as I would be worried
but I wouldnt have worried about leaving my engine for just two weeks
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mark chandler
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posted on 1/5/07 at 07:23 PM |
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I,ve only seen this once before.... but this was on a fiesta where the plugs hd been in for years.
We got a bit of tube and welded it to the threaded end and were able to unscrew, not really an option 2" down the hole on a blade head...
Its a bitch !
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Catpuss
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posted on 1/5/07 at 07:26 PM |
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I wouldn't worry a bit about 2 weeks. Many store their bikes for 6 months at a time without engine trouble.
I've seen worse though. A mate of mine was having a right time getting a plug out. Turned out he cross threaded it. The end result what
"oh well its only an XS650 just screw it back in again". :-)
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jollygreengiant
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posted on 1/5/07 at 07:27 PM |
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This is a common occurance on old Ford HCS engines when the plugs have been left without changing for LOTS of sevices.
If your plugs are taper seat plugs then have they left the taper in the head?
If this is true then you will need to release the taper first by carefully drilling out with a drill bit the SAME diameter as the narrowest part of
the taper. Fill the flukes of the drill with grease and get some down the bore of the plug remnants. Then carefully drill out till you just relaese
the taper. (carefully means slowly & frequently cleaning drill flukes & re-greaseing.
When taper released or if no taper then carefully tap a Torx bit into hole in plug and use to unscrew thread from head.
This usually takes me about 10 mins start to finnish on a HCS engine.
Hope you get it sorted.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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welderman
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posted on 1/5/07 at 08:59 PM |
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once had an audi and cross threaded the plug, could not be arsed taking head off so re tapped it with hoover sucking away most of the bits.
needless to say it broke but the crank snapped under extream abuse from too much NOS. .
sorry but that does not help you .
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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aerobrick
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posted on 1/5/07 at 10:59 PM |
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As with Jolly on this one had this occur with a ford KA twice and a Fiesta however i got them out by using an easy out .
Providing the entire ceramic core is out i then got a hoover and sucked any crap out of the plug area before putting the easy out into whats left of
the plug and removed it once out i then hoovered it area again and put a new plug in.
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Danozeman
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posted on 2/5/07 at 05:30 AM |
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If theres not electrode parts left in then youl be able to get a bigish easy out in there to remove it. Should be an easy job.
They must have been done up bloody tight to have done that...... Just a little nip up is all they need.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Phil.J
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posted on 2/5/07 at 08:00 AM |
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''Q: Did anyone encounter such problem? The plugs are those recomended and they are brand new. I used them last fortnight to synchronise
the crabs''
I blame the crabs, those pincers can do an awful lot of damage when synchronised!
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G.Man
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posted on 2/5/07 at 09:38 PM |
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Seen it a lot with NGK plugs..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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phil_far
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posted on 5/5/07 at 05:24 PM |
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Since it seems rather easy to take the threaded portion out of teh head, can someone tell me how to do it?
Philip
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 5/5/07 at 06:10 PM |
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Hi Phil
You really need something like an "Easy Out" extractor as mentioned above.
As you can see, they are a bit like a drill but tapered, and the "cut" direction is opposite to a regular clockwise thread. The idea is
usually to drill into the bolt / thread you're trying to extract, but as your spark plug end is already hollow you can skip this bit. What you
then need is an easy-out that's taper allows it to sit in the hole, but not pass through. You then wind it anticlockwise into the spark plug
end, and as it goes further in it grips, and as you're turning anti-clockwise it should eventually unscrew the threaded part.
Chris
[Edited on 5/5/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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