mcerd1
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 05:21 PM |
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What revs can a Type 9 take ???
I know there are alot of posts/ threads about the max power for a type 9 - but what about revs ??
I've only got a 2.1 pinto (so power/ torque anr't going to be a problem) but my pinto has a bit stronger than normal intenals so the
bottom end will be good for 9000+ rpm 
To start with I'll be limited by the head and cam to sensable revs (~7500 rpm max)
but later I might push this a bit further and I'd like to know at what point I'll need to do something about the gearbox (rather than
waiting for it to fall apart then doing something about it)
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chunkytfg
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 05:34 PM |
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The gearbox will not really be a massive problem i wouldnt have thought.
The main hold back will be the rate at which the valve springs can shut the vavles and get them out of the way of the pistons
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flak monkey
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 05:37 PM |
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Dont worry about the revs.
Serious bottom end to take 9000+ on a pinto though. Complete forged internals infact. You nutter 
As long as you use uprated springs that come with the high revving cam kits, then you'll avoid valve bounce etc.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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stevec
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 05:46 PM |
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Torque is your enemy with gearboxes,
Steve.
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oadamo
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 05:52 PM |
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i seen a pinto do 10secs down the pod dont no what gearbox he was using tho lol
adam
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andyharding
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 06:26 PM |
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The Type9 is not a good choice for anything other than a bog standard Pinto. Even if you don't break it the ratios are crap.
If you can fit one in I'd use a T5 or have an uprated close ratio Type9 built.
I'm currently running a standard Type9 with 160+ BHP Pinto and it's not got much life left in it.
When it finally gives up I'll be going down the specially built Type9 route.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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mcerd1
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 07:44 AM |
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Thanks for the advice - and yes flak monkey I'm mad - its getting cossie internals fitted just now
and for the higher reving upgrade - I haven't decided yet between a wild pinto head and a NA cossie one
but I've got a std efi head for now with a 285 cam
that will do me untill its on the road (SVA'd and all that) - so I'll probibly stick with a reconed type 9 untill I find a good T5
[Edited on 30/5/07 by mcerd1]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 04:40 PM |
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No doubt it will tire out fast but I am running a type 9 in std form with 200hp, 165 lbft of torque and 7750rpm in a locost, and doubtless it will
tire out quickly but it aint broke in the first couple of hundred miles!
I spoke to a nutter with a westfield at donington last year who was trackdaying it non stop, with a 210hp vauxhall XE engine on std type 9 box, and in
three years reckoned it had been fine.
On the other hand I broke 3 behind much the same engine in my old rally car, the difference was that weighed 800kg, the locost 550kg.
Ratios wise yes the type 9 has a very short first gear (though I am fairrly happy with the rest witba torquey engine) but with a taller first it would
be a complete pig in traffic. As it is its difficult to trickle along at the ludicrously slow rate that people seem to insist on doing in city
centres, and with the paddle clutch I have fitted, slipping the clutch is a no-no, its on or off.
[Edited on 30/5/07 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 31/5/07 at 10:54 AM |
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If you had any doubts it may be worth phoning BGH or similar as I believe my BGH type 9 has some mods to help the oiling at high RPM. Apart from that
mine has heavy duty bearings to increase the torque rating and taller 1st and 2nd gears to close the ratios up.
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ever88
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| posted on 31/5/07 at 01:06 PM |
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I have broken 2 type 9's and found them to be a little weak but I can't comment on what stage in their life they were when I received
them. the t5 as suggested would be a good choice but as people seem to be getting away with using them on some pretty powerful installs perhaps this
may be the cheaper option as there is plenty of them about. I welded nuts to inside of bell housing also after my failures to make changes swifter.
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