wheezy
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 11:57 AM |
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Melted Carbon exhaust
In my bid to reduce the noise level I fitted a Quill T3 carbon can. Having only done 40 miles since fitting it I noticed a burning smell. The carbon
casing has melted and distorted at the back of the can 
I cant understand how it could have melted and so quickly. The only change I have made to the can is to weld a longer exit pipe on. It is a bit of a
blow as the noise level has decreased with no real noticeable power loss. Will carbon cans always do this?
Dave
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twybrow
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:07 PM |
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It really does depend upon how it is made. The resin used and the heat cycle is has been put through. I imagine (without beibng able to see it) that
the exhaust has deformed at the hottest point as the resin is continuing to cure/deform. When you say 'melted', I take it distorted is a
better description? Can you post a picture? The plus side is, that it should be significantly less prone to distortion in the future!
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wheezy
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:16 PM |
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I will post a photo when I get home tonight. Unfortunately melted is a better description as the casing is charred and brittle and looks like it has
been placed in a fire. In fact I could probably push my finger through it.
Dave
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MikeR
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:27 PM |
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is the can normally in airflow and you've put it somewhere out of the flow?
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clockwork
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:27 PM |
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You know quill cans have a lifetime warranty don't you...
"Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." Benjamin Franklin.
"Well if you have nothing to hide, you have nothing to fear" Morons the world over.
Locost/Kit builders info and FAQ website:- www.carbuilders.info
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wheezy
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:32 PM |
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The can is inside the bodywork. It has some airflow over it but it is difficult to tell exactly how much. Even so would it get hot enough to melt. It
looks like the resin has burned off just leaving the carbon fibres.
Dave
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wheezy
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clockwork
You know quill cans have a lifetime warranty don't you...
I got mine off ebay and I feel sure that it will not be covered as it has been modded with the new tail pipe and it has been placed in a car which is
not a standard instalation.
Dave
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 12:53 PM |
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My R1 carbon can did similar, went all brittle on the outside and hollow sounding, that was on the outside of a book Locost too so nicely in the
airflow.
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wheezy
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 06:34 PM |
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I have now removed the can, it was so badly burned that the end cap has just pulled off.
Looking at replacing the carbon with either titanium or numonic alloy sheet (we have some spare at work) What thickness should the sheet be as we have
some 20 swg and some 27 swg bearing in mind that I will need to roll it?
Dave
[Edited on 29/8/07 by wheezy]
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DIY Si
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 07:33 PM |
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I would imagine 27 swg is a bit thin, with 20 swg being a touch thick, but would probably ok.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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zakeen
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| posted on 29/8/07 at 08:48 PM |
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Its all in the epoxy. Some types can take high temps and others cant. So it depends on what they have used when they made it.
I would be shocked if they used the wrong type knowing it will be made for an exhust system.
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wheezy
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| posted on 30/8/07 at 02:10 PM |
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The carbon shell has now been skipped. I have made a new one from titanium (if that melts then I am in serious s**t.
The can was fitted to a Triumph for 18 months so I can only think that it was lack of airflow over the can that caused it to melt as most of the
damage was at the back of the can by the outlet.
Dave
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