jmbillings
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 posted on 13/9/03 at 04:03 PM |
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Couple of q's on wiring up our 4AGE
Nearly there! Currently, I am having fun wiring the 4AGE engine loom into our (previously Crossflow) loom. A lot of it is done now, but I have a
couple of little problems:
1) The battery warning light won't work. I've double checked I have hooked into the right wire (a yellow one coming out of the engine bay
fusebox that goes to one side of the charge fuse) and this is connected to one side of the dashboard light. The other side of the dash light is a
straight ignition 12v feed. The rest of the loom (i.e. alternator to the engine bay fusebox is undisturbed. Now, when I turn on the ignition, I have
12v on the one side of the bulb and the other connection is earthed, yet the light doesn't come on! So, I thought the bulb had blown, but it
isn't... this seems a bit illogical to me!
2) Where on the 4AGE is the Oil Pressure switch? There is a big round sender on the exhaust side, but that seems to be for working the oil press.
gauge. According to the Haynes book of lies, the pressure switch for the dash light is on the inlet side behind the alternator, but I can't see
it anywhere... also, looking at our old corolla dash, I cant actually see a oil warning light either! (although it is on the Haynes circuit diagrams).
Any ideas?
ps... anyone else find the haynes wiring diagrams for the corolla absolute pap? Half the colours aren't labelled right as the key misses half
the letters and uses numbers (which never appear on the actual diagrams), and then half the wire colours aren't keyed at all!
3) The fan- the relay in the engine bay box seems to be normally closed- ie. no resistance across terminals when it's "off". Is this
correct? Also, which wires coming out of the box are the ones for the fan itself? - The Haynes seems to omit this completely and checking with a
multimeter I get varying resistance across lots of the wires??
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MK Goldrush
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| posted on 13/9/03 at 07:16 PM |
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Regarding the Battery Warning Light - it is illogical! Having said that I have known bulbs to LOOK like they're ok but aren't - change
bulb. There could be a break in the wire internally. I have also known bulb holders to be faulty (very rare) but possible. Re-check the connectivity
of the feed just before the holder using an voltmeter earthing to chassis. If it's positive, the break is in the holder/bulb/earth. Process of
elimination I'm afraid.
Relay - the thermostat needs to be "made" to throw the relay over. Across the terminals you shouldn't get a resistance as it's
open circuit - unless I've read it wrong?
Hope this helps!
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jmbillings
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| posted on 14/9/03 at 06:29 AM |
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well, I fathomed out the fan- the relay is normally closed, but gets activated when the ignition is on (thus opening the contacts so the fan is off).
Presumably when the sender gets hot (I earthed it to test) it then turns the relay off, which closes the contacts so the fan runs. The fan supply is
from an ign feed, so the fan wont run when ign off and relay cntacts closed. I think. Will have another play with the batt light later! Ta
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 15/9/03 at 08:25 AM |
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That big round sender for the pressure guage is where the low pressure warning switch should be, seems someone has changed it or else it's a
standard fitment on your version. To use a warning light switch you will need an adaptor to do both. If it's a big sender then I recommend you
use a remote adaptor fastened to convenient point on chassis as vibration of engine will fracture the brass adaptor and fall off, letting all the oil
out.
Been there, done that!!
The sender in block below the inlet manifold and behind the alternator is the anti-knock sender which feeds the ECU signals when the engine is
'pinking' 'detonating' or whatever you wish to call it. The ECU will then retard the ignition till it stops.
Don't treat Haynes as gospel on these cars. Most of the Haynes manual including photos are direct copies from the official manual, the rest I
reckon they best guessed!
I agree about the wiring diagram but using a bit of logical thought and cut and pasting the diagrams I finally found my ECU and wiring diagram agreed
on colours and connections. It seems that Toyota made hybrid looms during model changovers.
I only found one wire that was duplicated colours in my loom. It did cause me problems as it was the ignitor signal feed, the other was the windscreen
washer pump wire. Guess what? I wired the pump wire up to the ignitor. Finally found the mixup after an evenings fault finding trying to get engine to
start!
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jmbillings
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| posted on 15/9/03 at 08:46 AM |
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Thanks Rob. I think looking at it, our car simply never had a pressure switch sender, given that the dash doesn't seem to have a light either. I
don't have any senders on the other side of the engine- I think ours is too early to have knock ones, its a phase 2.
Have worked out most of the wiring now, just a few bits left to do. Looking good though, the fuel pump buzzes for 3 secs when ignition on, and starts
again when I crank it on the starter. Dunno about ignition yet, but the engine bay loom was fairly intact so should be all OK. Seem to have quite a
lot of wires that are black with orange-red rings on, some for the igniter, and it seems to also be an ignition feed to lots of other things, but
everything well so far.
When we had the crossflow in, we had senders for oil temp/pressure/warn light, so your idea of offboard ones connected via a short hose will be best I
think- just need to find the right adapter to screw into the engine, I think the "big round" sender has a tapered thread
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 15/9/03 at 10:09 PM |
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This seems quite common on Toyota engines. When we replaced the 3SGE in my brothers Celica the replacement lump had a huge oil pressure sender instead
of a switch thatb we had to swap over.
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mrmotorhead13
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 02:17 AM |
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quote:
The sender in block below the inlet manifold and behind the alternator is the anti-knock sender which feeds the ECU signals when the engine is
'pinking' 'detonating' or whatever you wish to call it. The ECU will then retard the ignition till it stops.
Did all the 4AGE's in the UK have knock sensors? In the US, only GZE's and late smallport GE's did as far as I know. My '87
MR2, for instance, hasn't got one.
Bill J
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MK Goldrush
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 07:50 AM |
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Fan Switching
quote:
The fan supply is from an ign feed, so the fan wont run when ign off and relay cntacts closed. I think.
jm - the fan is normally connected to a "non-switched" positive ie battery as this will allow for the fan to
"over-run" when engine is switched off. In the UK this is quite common on production cars, assuming it's a similar system, it should
be ok.
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 08:17 AM |
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Bill,
They were fitted on the later models, phase 3 engine. This engine was fitted from late 89 to late 91 registered cars over here.
The ECU uses a MAP sensor only, without an AFM or O2 sensor. Hence the anti-knock sensor.
Rob Lane
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 10:09 AM |
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To resurrect an old thread....
I have bought a VDO oil-pressure sender to drive the gauges I've fitted - the stock 4AGE oil pressure switch (under the exhaust, near the oil
filter) seems to be a 27TPI tapered thread, and looks like a 1/8NPTF - can anyone confirm this? The reason I ask is that the VDO sender doesn't
seem to fit too easily, though I haven't tried too hard yet because I don't want to damage the threads.
Cheers,
Eddy
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jmbillings
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| posted on 3/6/04 at 10:30 AM |
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I think thats right - it was certainly tapered. What we did was make a new sender block from a lump of metal to take pressure switch, pressure gauge
sender and oil temp sender. This is connected to the hole in the block via a short length of tube. Checked with Steve, he said:
Yeah funny tapered thread on the Toyota pressure sender, British Fine GAS thread I think...
What I did in the end was cut up the oil pressure sender (saving the threaded bit) to make sure of it screwing into the block then brazed (or could
silver solder) a length of ¼ inch copper brake pipe into that. The brake pipe was useful to get clear of the alternator and then fitted a
'compression fitting' from work to the end of the pipe. Could have brazed a known threaded boss on the end to suit the sender but the
CompF was free!
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mad4x4
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| posted on 8/6/04 at 03:31 PM |
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Fans, I have wired mine so that it is on a battery Live and only thing keeping it off is the theromstate switch. This means if the engine has been
running hot. The fan will continue to cool until the temp drops- even if the engine is OFF.
I believe this is safe as long as there is a sticker saying fan may continue to run when engine is off.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 10:44 AM |
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Oil switch thread for Toyota is M10 1.25 tapered pitch I believe.
Ignition warning light I have as follows :-
Off main relay coil to a diode cathode end, then diode anode end to bulb then to fuse then on to L terminal on alternator.
Hope that makes sense.
Rob Lane
www.robs7.com
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