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Author: Subject: Brake switch
DarrenW

posted on 8/2/08 at 10:46 PM Reply With Quote
Brake switch

This is a question for those with the brake switch in the main hydraulic line (prssure operated). Does anyone find the brake lights only come on when you press the pedal quite hard? ie hard enough to have your fillings ejected and neck extending by an extra 2 feet braking from 30mph?

The question is - for those whose lights work perfectly fine - how did you manage it? My switch is fitted with connections at bottom. Ive tried bleeding the switch. Cant help thinking there must be a spring inside and mine is too strong.






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RazMan

posted on 8/2/08 at 10:47 PM Reply With Quote
Have you got it mounted in the front or rear brake line? The pressures can be quite different and it might be worth swapping if you can.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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graememk

posted on 8/2/08 at 10:48 PM Reply With Quote
mine works ok, but i remember that andy (ash3) had a problem with his last year.

might be worth a U2U






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DarrenW

posted on 8/2/08 at 11:02 PM Reply With Quote
Its in the rear line close to master cylinder (front bulkhead). Single cylinder set up. Are pressures still that much different on std sierra master cylinder?

I was wondering if a micro switch on pedal would be better solution but no obvious mounting point.






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RazMan

posted on 9/2/08 at 10:00 AM Reply With Quote
Sounds like a faulty switch to me. Probably a good idea to try another one a s they are not too expensive - my brakelights come on with just a dab on the pedal.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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r1 locost

posted on 9/2/08 at 10:17 AM Reply With Quote
brake switch

the master cylinder work 67%front 33%rear so i may be worth moving it to the front line
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BenB

posted on 9/2/08 at 12:07 PM Reply With Quote
How is it mounted? If you've got an air-bubble under the switch it'll make it harder to activate it. Even when they're working they take a bit of force to activate them....

Personally I'm planning on building an accelerometer brake switch IE brake lights go on during decelleration whether due to engine braking, brake braking(!) or just backing off the motion lotion a bit..... A microswitch (in parallel to the hydraulic switch) is a good combination.

Tintop drivers often follow way too close and aren't used to cars stopping so quickly. By the time the brake light comes on they'll be well up my chuff!

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iank

posted on 9/2/08 at 12:13 PM Reply With Quote
I read here there are two different switches, one of which requires a lot more pressure than the other.

Otherwise it might be trapped air over the switch as BenB suggests.

[Edited on 9/2/08 by iank]





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Anonymous

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charlierevell

posted on 9/2/08 at 06:37 PM Reply With Quote
I found this out today.... My switch is going to the front brakes.
its mounted flat, with the switch on the side. Only comes on with the pedal pressed very hard.
Not sure where i'd mount a switch tho?





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