Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Reply
Author: Subject: Roll bar stays
givemethebighammer

posted on 8/11/03 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
Roll bar stays

I have been trying to make some roll bar stays but am having problems cutting the joint where the stay is welded to the roll bar. Would be easy with square tube as you could just cut a semi circle out of two opposite sides the same radius as the roll bar. Round tube not so easy. Any tips ?

image attached

[Edited on 8/11/03 by givemethebighammer] Rescued attachment rollbar.JPG
Rescued attachment rollbar.JPG

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Mark Allanson

posted on 8/11/03 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
Havent done it yet, but I am using 2" tube so I will use a 2" hole saw. I can see no reason why it will not work





If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
givemethebighammer

posted on 8/11/03 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
Just found this:

http://www.ihpva.org/people/tstrike/tubemiter.exe

those clever bike building people

input the tube dimensions and it draws you a printable template ...

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
type 907

posted on 8/11/03 at 11:53 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Chaps,

The joining of two pipes to form a tee IMHO is less complicated if they are of different diameters, i.e. 2" roll bar, say 1 1/2" brace. Then you just dish the end of the brace pipe to suit the radius of the roll bar with a grinder.
If you wish to join pipes of equal diameter you cut the end of the brace pipe at 45 deg, turn it over and cut at 45 deg again to form a 90 deg point. The hole in the roll bar is two cuts at 45 deg half way through to form a vee. see diagram.
Personaly I think they look better with smaller braces.
The hole cutter idea would work in this case (small to large) saving shaping with the grinder.
Hope this helps.

Paul G

[Edited on 8/11/03 by type 907]

[Edited on 8/11/03 by type 907]





Too much is just enough

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
type 907

posted on 8/11/03 at 11:59 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry , forgot diagram. Rescued attachment Lotus 021s.jpg
Rescued attachment Lotus 021s.jpg

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Marcus

posted on 9/11/03 at 11:16 AM Reply With Quote
With the roll bar stays, it's called a fishmouth mitre as the shape of the .......... well you get it!
I did mine by trial and error, using the angle grinder, and was surprised by the shape I ended up with!
With a little patience it can be done.
BTW my main hoop was 2", the stays 1.75".
Alternatively use the above link and get a template.

Marcus





Marcus


Because kits are for girls!!

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
blueshift

posted on 9/11/03 at 03:35 PM Reply With Quote
I've used the tubemiter.exe program before. it's good, if it's the same one. handles different size tubes and join angles.
View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
Alan B

posted on 9/11/03 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Havent done it yet, but I am using 2" tube so I will use a 2" hole saw. I can see no reason why it will not work


I will work fine......run it slow with lube and keep it all very rigid.....

Often it is easier to have the tube double length and keep the pilot drill in the holesaw and just plunge right through making 2 fishmouths at once.....I've done hundreds that way.....

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
givemethebighammer

posted on 9/11/03 at 10:45 PM Reply With Quote
Used tubemiter.exe and the old angle grinder - two perfect (well nearly) joints in about 10 mins. Shame my welding wasn't as neat. Guess I'll just have to grind it back and sand a little before painting it
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Fast Westie

posted on 10/11/03 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
I didn't quite work out with the tubemitre thing if you were cutting into the roll bar tube, cos if so, it is a no, no. The hole saw idea is the best





The car in front is a Westfield

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
givemethebighammer

posted on 10/11/03 at 09:45 PM Reply With Quote
didn't need to cut into the roll bar.

I think it is a quirk of the program that if the size of the tube you are mitering is greater than that you are connecting to the program produces a weird "mirror" image template. I just used one half of this to cut my joints

[Edited on 10/11/03 by givemethebighammer]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Alan B

posted on 10/11/03 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
I dont think it's a quirk....it makes sense to me....surely you wouldn't want to be fismouthing a tube that was bigger than the one it mated with?.....you would have gaps at each side...

I think common sense says that if you have different diameter tubes that the notch will be on the smaller one?...I.E the bigger tube is the continous one and the other joins to it....

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.