Guinness
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 03:27 PM |
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Gutted - time to change to a hydraulic clutch
Went out for a run with the NE7ER's this morning. Managed about 35 miles before my clutch cable snapped, again 
Managed to get going again, but the clutch was dragging when the pedal was fully in, so although the open roads were fine, through villages etc was a
pain. So I bottled it and limped home.
My ZZR1100 engine has a hydraulic clutch as standard, which I am operating using the original hand clutch lever / reservoir, which is in turn
connected to the pedal by a cable. It's this cable that has snapped, on several occasions now.
So I'm investigating changing to a hydraulic master cylinder fixed to the bulkhead, operated by a traditional push rod instead.
It'll mean a bit of modification to the fire wall, but it should be OK.
So, does anyone know how I can find out the size of my existing cylinder? and or what size I need for my new one?
I'm thinking of going for the Wilwood Ally Master Cylinder with Integral Reservior, unless anyone has any bad experiences of them!?
It's available in 0.625", 0.700", 0.750" and 0.813" bore.
Cheers
Mike
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 03:38 PM |
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Excellent choice but you could also use a Girling jobbie withg or without remote reservoir as access allows.
I think you will need one of the smaller sizes. My Duratec uses a .75" bore which is perfect for my clutch but the Kwacker might need something
more petite like a 0.625" - the only real difference being the throw required to disengage.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 03:46 PM |
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If the cable is snapping odds are you need to restrict the pedal movement with an adjustable stop.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Guinness
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 03:49 PM |
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Thanks Razman, I think I'll try the smallest size first.
BT, the cable isn't being stretched, it's rubbing on a sharp edge on the bulkhead as it leaves the pedal and goes through the tube (that
is welded in at an angle).
I've tried filing it down, but it doesn't seem to make any difference  There isn't much room down there to get at it all!
Cheers
Mike
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Wadders
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 03:51 PM |
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bike master cylinders often have the bore size cast into the body, but if not it should be easy enough to remove the piston and measure it.
have you not considered using the existing bike master cylinder with a rod operation?
Al.
Originally posted by britishtrident
If the cable is snapping odds are you need to restrict the pedal movement with an adjustable stop.
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stevec
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 04:25 PM |
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I used the .625" on my ZX10 Mike, I would go for that but watch out for the amount of stroke. I had to limit mine to stop it turning the clutch
inside out.
Steve.
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Guinness
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 04:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevec
I used the .625" on my ZX10 Mike, I would go for that but watch out for the amount of stroke. I had to limit mine to stop it turning the clutch
inside out.
Steve.
Thanks Steve! 0.625" it is.
So if I mount it as low as possible, so the pedal travels the full distance to the bulkhead, but the push rod is close to the pivot point to limit
its travel?
Mike
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Peteff
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 06:23 PM |
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To operate your clutch you could use a motorbike rear brake master cylinder which would operate in vertical or horizontal orientation and has a remote
reservoir attached to it.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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tks
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 07:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
To operate your clutch you could use a motorbike rear brake master cylinder which would operate in vertical or horizontal orientation and has a remote
reservoir attached to it.
Yupsz
its your best bet!! car cilinders are way to big!!! and to heavy to push!!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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marmot0
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 07:08 PM |
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Andy Bates knocked me up a very neat little bracket to hold the master cylinder, now no longer needed if you interested
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Coose
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 08:42 PM |
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Yep, what PeteFF said. The one you're using at the moment will probably be 1/2" (it will be cast on the side) and most bike rear master
cylinders are that size.
Have a search on eSkip.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
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stevec
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| posted on 17/5/08 at 08:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Guinness
quote:
Originally posted by stevec
I used the .625" on my ZX10 Mike, I would go for that but watch out for the amount of stroke. I had to limit mine to stop it turning the clutch
inside out.
Steve.
Thanks Steve! 0.625" it is.
So if I mount it as low as possible, so the pedal travels the full distance to the bulkhead, but the push rod is close to the pivot point to limit
its travel?
Mike
I used some penny washers on the push rod with lock nuts so the washers would bottom out at a certain point that was best for clearing the clutch
without over extending it.
Probably not the best way but it got the job done and was reliable.
Steve.
[Edited on 17/5/08 by stevec]
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