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Author: Subject: Painting Bodywork
jnormandale

posted on 26/10/08 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
Painting Bodywork

Hi guys,

Has anyone painted their own bodywork, due to lack of funds am considering doing it myself. What is the best option:

- Compressor spraying
- Spray can spraying

Does anyone have the best technique also, i.e. spraying, sanding and spraying again.

Your input would be great.

Cheers

James

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tomgregory2000

posted on 26/10/08 at 08:42 PM Reply With Quote
no to spray can!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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minitici

posted on 26/10/08 at 08:50 PM Reply With Quote
Painting Mr Bean Style
Painting Mr Bean Style

Mr. Bean - 'paint bomb' style

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MikeR

posted on 26/10/08 at 08:58 PM Reply With Quote
i'm really interested in this as the second hand body work i got isn't in as good a condition as i'd hoped.

Hoping that a quick spray would make it look immaculate.

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mark chandler

posted on 26/10/08 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
Sprayed mine outside on a sunny day, its a bit damp now so you would need some really fast thinners but at least it stops the bugs!

Just stuck it on axles stands, wheels and bonnet off and bags over the bones etc and away you go.

Then bonnet done seperately

No-ones ever been rude about it yet.

As mine is ali panels and bonnet I just used the correct primer, preperation is key to success, spray can's are definately out, get some proper paint and an air supplied spray gun (you can hire this) those funny electric things make a fine mess.

Regards Mark

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wrigglypig

posted on 26/10/08 at 09:23 PM Reply With Quote
James I'm no expert by any means but have had some real good results. A few simple things to remember.
The finish is only as good as what its going over so preparation is everything!
I have only ever used cellulose with etch primer over the aluminium and fibreglass.
At this time of year, unless you have a heated garage make sure you use anti-bloom thinners.
Painting the panels individually has alwas been a good idea for me, and put is together afterwards. When you pay dont try and get afinsh straight away ( thats the quickest way to get it running) I have found that when it comes to putting the colour on ( not metalic) put on a light dust coat ( so you can still see the primer) Dependant on the heat in the garage wait till it has just started to go tacky. Then another coat. when its dry flat it down a bit with fine wet and dry with a little soap to prevent it clogging the paper. Once its dried of wipe it down with a tak rag and repeat. Flat it again and rinse it clean, dry and tak rag again. Then a dust coat again ( you should have full depth coverage now ) then another coatand when that starts to go off keep building coats till you have a reasonable finish. Cellulose can be compounded once it is hard ( at least a week longer if possible) Tip when you spray , spray a scrap of metal or simlar then you can test how dry it is on there rather than touch the car!! Just dont use aerosols..


Good luck Kev


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blakep82

posted on 26/10/08 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
compressor all the way! i'd never sprayed before, and the result was in no way perfect, but much better than expected, plus i really didn't prep it properly. was a case of making it look better than it was, and do it properly after SVA

edit: what i mean is the result wasn't perfect BECAUSE i didn't prep properly i should really not come on here after being at the pub

this was literally the first time i'd sprayed anything



[Edited on 26/10/08 by blakep82]





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austin man

posted on 26/10/08 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
compressor definitely if u want the best result I have sprayed Cellulose, synthetic and 2 pac the later being verry bad for u but gives an instant shiny finish. The easies paint I have found is cellulose you put it on thinner and give more coats. Essential that yo paint in warm garage or you will get blooming. Thisis caused by damp getting uinto th paint causing a foggy effect in the pain. anti bloom thinners can help a little but warmth is the essential thing so if u can warm the garage up.Also remember that the environment is filled with fumes and potential for explosion if using naked flames etc. essential to any paint job is the prep make sure you flat lightly between coatsusing 800 or 1000 wet and dry, thoroughly dry and wip the area to be sprayed. The panels can be T Cut later to bring out depth.

There is also a brush on repaint available which can give a good finish some people choose this method then flat tha paint work followed by t cut to bing back the shine. See my avtar painted in 2 pack my first attempt with this paint type I run only and car needed very little work to get the finished result. \If you buy a compressor get the highest cfm you can afford this is important as #you should also be able to run air tools from it should you need to in future.

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Myke 2463

posted on 26/10/08 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
Check ouy Deauville cars, they have a paint that can be applied with a B&Q paint roller.
A Sylvia Mojo in September Complete kit car was painted with this paint and looks the dogs bits for just over £ 200.

UK Contact Mike@deauvillecars.com

Cheers Mike

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blakep82

posted on 26/10/08 at 10:29 PM Reply With Quote
^ £200!?
i should be able to spary mine for about £70, and thats with buying the paint from halfords!





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austin man

posted on 26/10/08 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote
a good source for paint I have found is Autopaint very reasonable priced. Brush on for £200 is expensive and the finish wasnt that good either the shiny bit is the part he has compounded the article stated he had yet to do the rest of the car. Cellul;ose will cost £20 - £30 per litre thinners around. £8 for 5 litres second hand compressor £100
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