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Author: Subject: Duratec install progress - sump construction underway
flak monkey

posted on 3/4/10 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, spot on thanks mate

Finished off the bodywork today. Cut lots of card templates then made lots of yellow dust

Pretty happy with the results. Just need to make a box inside the bonnet for the filter and refit the interior and wrap the exhaust now and its ready for a drive

New bonnet fitted 1
New bonnet fitted 1


New bonnet fitted 3
New bonnet fitted 3


New bonnet fitted 4
New bonnet fitted 4


New bonnet fitted 2
New bonnet fitted 2






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scootz

posted on 3/4/10 at 08:23 PM Reply With Quote
Looks really good David!





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eddie99

posted on 3/4/10 at 10:41 PM Reply With Quote
Looks stunning! Well done mate, you should be chuffed!





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Stuart_B

posted on 4/4/10 at 10:06 AM Reply With Quote
that bonnet air holes look cool, i realy do like the 3 angled ones at the back, i would have never of throught about them.

stuart





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dlatch

posted on 4/4/10 at 11:27 AM Reply With Quote
david where did you get the cutdown number plate?

bonnet mods look great by the way

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flak monkey

posted on 29/4/10 at 02:58 PM Reply With Quote
I am sure most are aware of the minor problems I have been having since getting the car on the road.

The car is now running on Omex engine management rather than Megasquirt as it randomly decided to start playing up last weekend and I have yet to find the problem. It was fired into life for the first time on Omex last night and seems to work reasonably well considering the map is a long way out. The final thing is to re-cover all the wiring again and to change the coolant temp sensor as the standard Duratec one doesnt seem to suit the bias resistors in the Omex ecu very well giving very poor resolution at lower coolant temps.

I have another smaller supercharger pulley on order, 85mm dia which should bring the boost up to just under 15psi (1bar) which is where I had wanted it to be.

The car is then booked in to be set up at ATSpeed Racing on May 17th. Fingers crossed everything will be ok for this session.

Other minor problems are I have a gearbox oil leak from somewhere. I need to pull the covers off the transmission tunnel to try and figure out where it is leaking from. Its a couple of drips per day - I just hope its nothing too serious. But no doubt will require the engine to come out to resolve it in the long term.

Sump leaks are all fixed all bar a very minor weep at the front. If the engine is out at any point then I will weld it up properly.

Other than that - its quick, and still driveable right down to 1500rpm in 5th. It will be very interesting to see what power it makes on the rollers next month!

Front pass 1
Front pass 1






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NS Dev

posted on 29/4/10 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
looking like a good job David!

Nice work.

Is that plenum a nissan gti r one? Looking into using one on a vauxhall at the mo, look nice and adaptable!





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flak monkey

posted on 29/4/10 at 10:05 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Nat

Yes it is a nissan GTiR one, actually relatively cheap to pick up as well. Mine cost about 50.

David





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flak monkey

posted on 1/5/10 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
Posting sitting at stoneleigh.

Took the car for its first drive since changing to Omex this morning, works suprisingly well considering its a base map. Richened a few sites up a bit and it cruises fine now so all reeady for a rolling road set up from that side of things.

Now i just need to find the source of my gearbox oil leak. There's always something!





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NS Dev

posted on 1/5/10 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
gearbox leak, where from? if its the front, between box and bellhousing then it'll be leaking around the selector shaft.





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flak monkey

posted on 2/5/10 at 09:38 PM Reply With Quote
I thought it was leaking from around the sandwich plate/tail housing but it all looks good.

Drips congreate on that area and on the bolts holding the gearbox mount to the chassis. There is now also oil seeping through to the passenger footwell, so its obviously getting flung up from somewhere.

It was rebuilt with all new seals and gaskets which is the most annoying bit about it.

Grrr





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flak monkey

posted on 3/5/10 at 03:16 PM Reply With Quote
Well after removing the tunnel top this morning I think I found the main gearbox leak. Appeared to be leaking around the 5th ear adjuster plate on the side. Even though I had put sealant round it once before. That'll teach me not to use hylomar!

Time will tell, took it for a short run this afternoon and got it hot, so it'll just have to stand now and I'll see if its still leaking.





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flak monkey

posted on 1/10/10 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
Had the GTS on the rolling road again today after changing the cams for Raceline 210 spec ones.

Took it to Northampton Motorsport this time and Troy there gets a very good recommendation from me. Very friendly, thorough, and has made an exceptional job of the mapping. The car is now better than it has ever been.

The result was:

01-10-10 dyno result
01-10-10 dyno result


291.2bhp @6,456rpm and 240.1lbft @6,333rpm at the flywheel. Which translates to 273.3bhp and 226.2lbft at the wheels.

With 190lbft from 4000rpm up its certainly fun in the wet!

Boost dropped from 12psi with standard cams, to 10psi with the mild road cams. So there is scope for more power with more boost if you want to get silly.

David





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Nitrogeno25

posted on 9/3/11 at 04:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sebastiaan
Good stuff!

Would it be possible to fit a simple (ali?) heatshield below the exhaust manifold? I see you've sleeved a number of hoses (looks like they are the oil supply hoses from the reservoir to the S/C?), but some more heat protection might be usefull. Last thing you want is hot oil meeting a hot manifold. That'd be game over for the car....




Something like a horizontal plate just below the primaries would do.


I read a long time ago that the exahust pipes should be arranged according to the firing order which is 1-3-4-2, do you know what effects have doing it other way?

Thanks and congrats on your build!

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purdy

posted on 5/12/11 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
sump

Hi

Have you come across the oil filter problem yet?

Purdy

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Nitrogeno25

posted on 29/12/11 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey







Flak, which spark plugs wire are you using with the duratec? I can't find wires with suitable length!

Thank you very much!

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flak monkey

posted on 30/1/12 at 12:44 PM Reply With Quote
Those were Magnecor wires.

You need the raceline oil filter adaptor as well, or use a remote filter.





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mikey p

posted on 19/7/12 at 08:58 AM Reply With Quote
Which bell housing does this use?
the one from RWD Motorsport or titan ect?

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floaty

posted on 24/5/13 at 07:08 AM Reply With Quote
clutch

What about running a sierra cosworth clutch kit.
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Vedde

posted on 26/7/15 at 08:37 PM Reply With Quote
Crank key?

quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Another busy day today.

Took the crank down to Scholar Engines in near Stowmarket to get the crank keyed. Top job and turned it around in 2 hours for me as well! So I was home just after lunch.

Keyed crank
Keyed crank


keyed pulley and gear
keyed pulley and gear


Cleaned it all up and fitted to the block. Torqued up the ARP main studs then fitted the conrods to the crank, again with ARP bolts.

Crank and rods refitted
Crank and rods refitted


Then fitted the gear to the crank and the oil pump and fitted the modified oil pick up pipe.

Oil pump drive
Oil pump drive


I also nearly finished modifying the chain cover. The engine mount is redundant and possibly in the way of the belt so I cut it off with the grinder. Still need to tidy it up a bit, then probably paint the cover to tidy it up, though I may not.

This is the std front cover with the fwd engine mount

Std front cover
Std front cover


And this is the same cover with the mount removed

Modded front cover
Modded front cover


I will make some bungs for the old bolt holes too as they arent required any more either. Or I could counterbore the holes and fit cap heads. Not really decided yet!


Hi Flak
Can the key sit anywhere on the crank's 360 degrees? Or is there a special place where it goes?

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baldthreads

posted on 21/10/15 at 01:21 PM Reply With Quote
love your work and build very entertaining
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PSJ282

posted on 17/10/16 at 09:15 PM Reply With Quote
hi just read your whole thread great work.

i saw at the beginning you said it would be a budget build did you keep track in the end of the overall cost?

ed

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 18/10/16 at 04:28 AM Reply With Quote
Flak no longer visits this forum unfortunately





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