mad-butcher
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| posted on 11/10/11 at 01:36 PM |
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All I did for a pedal stop was drill a hole in the bulk head about 3/4 of the way up the pedal and used a round headed gutter bolt with a nut and
washer either side of the bulkhead.
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Description
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the rusty L shaped bracket mounted on the pivot point is a simple stop to prevent the pedal coming to far forward, the same setup on the throttle
pedal
[Edited on 11/10/11 by mad-butcher]
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-matt
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| posted on 13/10/11 at 11:38 AM |
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ARHH, still no luck!
The clutch is now disengaging correctly, the car will now move in gear with the clutch pressed.
But its still stalling when putting it in gear.
Ive checked both the stand and clutch switches are both shorted.
But im sure its a mechanical issue, as when engaging gear, it just makes a loud clunk, although the car doesn't seem to move foreward like in a
normal car.
The other thing i have noticed is, to get it in gear, i often have to push it forewards a few feet? is this normal?
Im not really sure what to do now?
anyone got anymore ideas?
cheers
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-matt
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| posted on 13/10/11 at 12:06 PM |
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woo, just had a brain wave, and shorted the neutral wire to earth, and it doesn't stall/cutout?
so do i keep it like this? or should the clutch switch be left open? rather than shorted?
But atleast its working now, and am amazed at how much clutch feel there is, as it happily moves with just the clutch.
But should i have to roll the car to a certain spot to be able to get it in gear?
cheers
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Regsmonster
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| posted on 13/10/11 at 12:24 PM |
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If it doesn't go into gear at the first atempt, let your clutch out, then try putting it in gear again....
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/10/11 at 12:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by -matt
woo, just had a brain wave, and shorted the neutral wire to earth, and it doesn't stall/cutout?
so do i keep it like this? or should the clutch switch be left open? rather than shorted?
But atleast its working now, and am amazed at how much clutch feel there is, as it happily moves with just the clutch.
But should i have to roll the car to a certain spot to be able to get it in gear?
cheers
That sounds like the starter logic/loom are wrong somewhere. I'd try and trace to sidestand and cluch switch wiring and sort it. It should run
once started whatever the neutral switch is doing as that should just effect the starting. Not having a working neutrallight is a pain when driving, I
know 'cos mine plays up when hot. It is posible to wire the loom so it works and doesn't mean you can only start in neutral.
When you're struggling to engage first and having to roll the car, is that with the engine running? If not running, they can be like that. If it
is running then letting the clutch out-in should solve it. Are you sure it's first that you're selecting and not second as that can be
harder to get in when stationary.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Waitey
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| posted on 21/2/12 at 04:42 PM |
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I may be a bit late to help you but I know what your problem it.
Replace the main relay, (just type R1 Main relay into ebay with your engine year).
The relays are a bit of a weak spot on these bikes some times. If you change the relay you should fix the problem!
305bhp All Steel Duratec Westie
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chicade
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| posted on 23/2/12 at 07:03 PM |
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YES I SECOND WAITEY RESPONSE I HAD THE SELF SAME PROBLEM AND CAUSED ME A HEAD ACHE I ALSO CHANGED MY NEUTRAL SWITCH AS IT WAS STICKING INTERMITANTLY
ALSO CHECK THE SMALL BANK OF FUSES IN YOU BIKE LOOM
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