Thanks for the info on the imrc connector. I had it wired correctly. I have ordered a new transistor for my IMRC because it holds it for a approx 10
seconds in shortrunner mode and then shuts of. After reading some forums in the usa about the focus svt I have seen some simularities with my lack of
power. So hoping this is the solution on the p1518 failure code. Only leafs the p1380. Will keep on searching
hi woza can u post the OBD port plug and wer the 7 wires go please mate as i no some go to the oil temp and pressher gages im helping a mate with his
loom and myin all in the car now and tuked away if you can please mate thanks moggy
Hi wasa, I've been reading through the thread with a lot of interest as I am in the process of building an ST170 powered kit car. I have
stripped the donor and have the full loom, I plan to use the standard ecu etc. I see no mention of the GEM module so I'm guessing this and all
its associated connections are not required to run the engine?
Hi all this is my first post. I am thinking of doing this conversion so the information here is greatly welcome, a massive thumbs up to big_wasa. I
have one question , what fuel pump would be required to run the st fuel rail I understand that the st fuel pump module varies the speed of the pump to
achieve the pressure required but what pressure is needed ?.
my progress towards getting my ST170 pump going on a custom wiring loom is tipping away, but I'm having issues (I think) with the PATS.
As you noted way back, PATS / Immobiliser connector C390 varies in shape, colour and wire colour based on the year of manufacture and not necessarily
like the Ford wiring diagram.
So, according to the Ford wiring diagram, the connector should have 4 female pins, with 5 wires:
p1 (Gn/Bk x 2)
Well, mine is nothing like that at all!
Believe me, I tore the bag'o'wires to bits looking for one that matched the manual, it isn't there.
This is where my odd-looking connector came from, right under the barrel and attached to the PATS sensor ring.
This is my 8-pin female connector with 4 wires, which I've guessed is the same orientation, based on the colours for p1, p2 being about the same
(fused +12v is usually some variety of green with trace, grounds black/black with trace)
However, what concerns me slightly is that the Gn/Rd and Bk/Og are twisted tightly enough it can't be an accident, which in network cabling is a
method of reducing interference. Why would you need to protect against interference on the power cables and not the data connections? The other two
may simply be twisted at a different, much less frequent rate, and have become decoupled over the last 2.5 years though.
The other two go back to the ECU, so one of them carrying the wrong type of signal will at best confuse it.
So, having wired it like this, assuming that I had them in the right order, the car powers up in Pos I, II, but there's no turn over, because
the starter relay inhibit is Open, along with all other 'active' connections to the ECU (Coil pack, Injectors, Fuel Pump Driver Module)
I've done some troubleshooting http://mevowners.proboards.com/thread/8204/spark-turn-over-pats-flashing, and my next step is to start rewiring
this plug until something magical happens.
Ug, I went down to the garage, took a load of pictures, and of course, Big_wasa's right, I've connected what I assumed was the PATS ring
to its connector, and wired it as if it were such.
Going back to the donor teardown pictures, the ring is present in Oct 2013, and completely missing 4 months later.
The wiring connector is more mysterious still, as it's present in pictures as recent as last August, but nowhere to be seen now.
Must be someplace, I'll rip the place apart at the weekend, and then hit the Wanted section of MEVowners after that. Lots of guys using
aftermarket ECUs will have no need of immobiliser ring.
Hi this is very helpful but I have a question not near this point yet but I have a 2001 Mondeo engine and a 2002 ecu (2.0 duratec) the guy I got it
from cut the loom and gave me an unmatched ecu another words not from the same car but was the same engine but I only got the ecu and nothing else am
I stuffed or can I get it to work or do I have to get matched set of bits and will this guide suit that ecu. Thanks in advance.