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Author: Subject: "How to" OEM Focus ST170 ecu with Pats info.
Matteoman

posted on 31/1/17 at 02:27 PM Reply With Quote
Hi there

Is big Wasa still reachable on this thread? Recently got an st170 running ford management but need some advice regarding the fuel pump driver module?

Would really appreciate some help.

Thanks everybody

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big_wasa

posted on 31/1/17 at 04:26 PM Reply With Quote
Yep I am still around.
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Matteoman

posted on 31/1/17 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
Fantastic as we're a little stuck

I've got an st engine in a Ka believe it or not and the loom has been made standalone by a friend it runs but the pump runs constant and Imrc operates fine but regarding the pump driver module does it operate as normal or?

I've checked all the pins on the module and they go where they should go. I've tried to check pin 1 is indeed switched earth but I don't think I'll see that without an oscilloscope.

Just after a bit of guidance we seem to of overcome all but this problem.

Thanks.

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big_wasa

posted on 31/1/17 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote


Pin 1 may not be as simple as a switched earth. It's more likely to be PWM pulse width modulation.

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Matteoman

posted on 31/1/17 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
That's the diagram I have stored and all pins go to their corresponding locations. I've checked the pins on the pressure sensor on the rail and there also correct. I believe pin 1 and 7 on the pump driver to be canbus signals.

In running a cosworth intank fuel pump out into a 3 port fuel filter with a pressure reg built in then out to the rail

Just can't figure out why it just pumps constant and has no prime etc. When you do your modified looms do you just wire it as per how it was in focus's and how do you do you fuel piping?

Appreciate the guidance I read the whole thread hoping to find my answer but unfortunately didn't

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big_wasa

posted on 31/1/17 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
Yes when I do a loom I take all the covering of and trace it back as far as I can. I don't think the driver has anything to do with canbus ?

Canbus is a high speed communications port. One ecu talking to another. Even the dash doesn't use Can it uses the slower bus.

The St170 is a returnless or dead head system. There is no fuel regulator. No return to the tank. There is a fuel damper. The only real difference between an st pump and an external pump is a one way check valve. I've took one to bits to have a look. In fact I nicked the check valve from it and put it on the Bosch style external pump.

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Matteoman

posted on 31/1/17 at 07:36 PM Reply With Quote
Oh right, so if I understand you correctly the 2 pins connected to the ECU which are pwm would be used to control the speed of the pump?

The reason I put the pressure reg there was because we don't know what's causing my pump to run all the time and that made it semi returnless

We're just struggling to find out why it's not operating as it should and just constantly running the pump, it doesn't prime either. I guess what Im trying to ask is do you just use the pump module wired in as per the focus would and will it regulate a normal pump or will it only switch it on and off?

Thanks again. This the last hurdle I've got to overcome and I don't seem to be getting anywhere

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big_wasa

posted on 1/2/17 at 06:26 AM Reply With Quote
I just wire every thing as it would be on the donor, chopping out any thing I think I can that won't be needed.


I no longer have access to good test equipment like an oscilloscope but my"feeling" is the pump will be pwm controlled instead of an on/off action.

But I don't know every thing and I am happy to be corrected if any one finds differant.

Again having butchered a few st pumps I found nothing special. It's just s motor.

One thing I found is the fuel rail pressure sensor can not be read on obd2 and the ecu controls the controller based on the fuel pressure sensor and other things.

I would check the wiring, change the fuel pressure sensor sensors and get rid of the fuel regulator.

Are you finding any fault codes ?

Cheers

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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 02:50 PM Reply With Quote
Hi again

Wiring checked and found a wire not correct so now it is as per focus the pump now stutters and shudders for a couple seconds then shuts off as if it's done a prime but it's not operating correctly still. Can't understand why it won't run smooth for a prime then power up again under cranking.

Do you have a feeling the vw 3 bar filter would cause it to stutter and judder? I can test it without if you think so. I just thought it was the pwm causing the stuttering/judder

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 03:51 PM Reply With Quote
3 bar filter ? Of you mean regulator, the shouldn't be any regulator.

What pump is it ?

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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 03:54 PM Reply With Quote
I have a cosworth in tank fuel pump this isn't the issue

The fuel filter I fitted is a vw/Audi 3 port filter which has a built in 3 bar fuel pressure regulator. It made the system semi returnless but I think your gonna say yes that'll be my problem because it's got 3 bar up it all the time the pwm can't control it ?

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
I am not saying that is the problem but your saying that's the only thing not to Oem standard. Are you getting any obd2 codes to point you else where ?
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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 08:03 PM Reply With Quote
Tonight I've removed the pressure reg filter and fitted just a normal fuel filter and tested it. Low and behold it primed and ran there is still a small judder of the pump on prime but it's loads better! Was yours a smooth prime?

Believe it or not I know my obd port works but I bought 3 code readers which aren't compatible with the st. Im bound to have codes because certain things aren't there anymore but all engine sensors are there and believed working

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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
Also pin 3 can that be connected directly to fuel pump earth and pin 10 I've put through the inertia switch. Is this correct?

Really appreciate the help over the last couple of days. If you could confirm the above I think it's sorted

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 08:55 PM Reply With Quote
No the inertia switch is in the live between driver and pump.

Yes pin 3 direct to the pump

The cheap and nastiest of obd2 readers work on a petrol for. Again I would look at the wiring.



[Edited on 3/2/17 by big_wasa]

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
The prime was just a height pitch whine.






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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
Ok so pin 3 is good
Pin 10 goes from the pump to the inertia which means it's using it then goes to the pump
I'll try the obd reader again as the man who did the loom was reading sensors from it when we first did it.

The prime works just stutters ever so slightly for some reason but it revs freely and comes off cold start fine and Imrc is fully functional

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
Yep pin 10 to inertia switch then to pump.
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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
This is a bit of a project thread I did.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=174681&page=2

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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
Perfect I think we over come everything then

Should I be worried about a little stutter during the prime? Or just keep an eye on it?

Thanks

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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:23 PM Reply With Quote
I'd read that thread on my lunch one day this week mate

The first picture on that shows the fuse box, I don't know if you used it or not but we didn't we just had a mini fuse box covering a couple things.

Should I be worried about a slight stutter when priming or just keep an eye on it?

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
H,m hard to say. Does the pump have a check valve to stop bleed of ?
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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:28 PM Reply With Quote
No I don't use the fuse box but I start with as much as I can get my hands on to work it back. The Imrc is wired through it.

[Edited on 3/2/17 by big_wasa]

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Matteoman

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:32 PM Reply With Quote
What's a check valve? There's nothing on the line it comes out the pump through a standard normal fuel filter and into the rail.

Ah cool much tidier doing your own mini box.

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big_wasa

posted on 3/2/17 at 09:41 PM Reply With Quote
It's a non return valve after the pump ( inside the st surge pot) it stops the fuel bleeding back through the pump to the tank.

eBay Item

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