A week or so back I posted THIS regarding adding remote central locking to the missus Hyundai Getz, which has central locking but only controlled by the key.

So, I've now got the door trim off & I have 4 wires going up to the door lock, one is permanent +ve, One permanent -ve, the 2 others are a red & a green, probing the wires whilst operating the central door locking one wire seems to get a very brief feed when the opening & the other when closing, however"tripping" either wire with a feed or an earth doesn't cause the other doors to operate & connecting the wiring up as shown in the (very poor!) instructions doesn't do anything.

I've done a bit of research on t'internet & it would appear that Hyundai somehow trip a relay (which I've not found yet) & that this relay feeds the other doorlocks (the central locking only works when operating the drivers doorlock).

So with this kit Universal Remote Central Locking Upgrade Kit Keyless Entry 2 Fobs LED indicator, which is what I've purchased, am I going to be able to trip the other doorlocks, perhaps from the other side of the relay? I'm figuring I will also need to purchase an actuator to operate the driver doorlock?

Thinking further, if I use the kit above to trigger an actuator (can anyone confirm it's able to do that?) then that will be doing exactly what the key would normally do in opening the door & this would trigger the other doors to open in the normal way, or will the doorlock being in the locked position block this from happening?

Any help much appreciated, currently driving me slightly nuts!

I think this page should help ;-)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hyunday-Getz-aftermarked-remote-controlled-centra/

Thanks, but I'd already seen that. He appears to be using Hyundai's own system "The Hyundai kit, includes new relays, a new door lock, and pulling apart the center console and the driver seat door" which I have no intention of doing.

I have now tested that having locked the doors from the drivers door, you can simply pull & push the locking rod & the other 3 doors then open & close, so I need to be able to remotely operate a solenoid inside the drivers door. You would think that would be pretty simple, but I believe they are usually 2 wire solenoids, so to make it push/pull you need to swap the feed & earth around, surely that should be simple enough!!

However on checking the outputs from the remote system I've bought - link above - I can't find 2 wires that swap their outputs in this way, tho' the instructions are almost non-existent.

They give a couple of wiring setups of sorts, one labelled Negative trigger & one labelled Positive trigger, but I have to say I don't really understand as they don't appear to give 2 wires that swap feeds in the way they would need to to control a 2 wire solenoid.

Can anyone tell me what <+>12V means when placed after the Earth symbol - is this describing a wire that swaps feed in this way?

I feel like I am being exceptionally dumb, but I just can't believe it's that hard to do something so simple!

You might need to scope the signals to see exactly what is present on the lines in normal operation of open and close. You need to be careful because you still need the speedo to control the locks (lock after a certain speed) and airbag to open the doors on deployment.

It maybe some communication bus or PWM signal. You may need to monitor to see exactly first.

Jason

That's precisely the sort of complication I'm trying to avoid, tho' the car is pretty unsophisticated by modern standards & doesn't lock the doors automatically, so unless you've specifically locked them yourself they remain unlocked

Having now found that if I use a universal solenoid to control the drivers door rod, it will automatically control the others, all I need to do is work out how to control that new door solenoid, but I'm not seeing how I can do that with the remote setup I've bought. I feel like I am missing a large piece of puzzle!

Am I correct that the 2 wire solenoid you simply switch the 2 wires from +ve to -ve to get it to lock/unlock?

Please just explain to me that I'm being a numpty & why!

no, your not a numpty...
I had a look at the 'manual' in the advert, and as you say its very poor
however, I think its first diagram would be ok if two of the labels hadn't slipped a line down
the second, maybe ok if the bottom connection didn't show earth.

I would use the third connection layout, but would test it with a meter on the bench first. (or open the box and look at the relay arrangement)

you are right that if just physically actuating the internal lock it should isolate the extra box from the original car wiring.

I haven't got a proper wiring diagram avaiable, but there are 2 separate relays under the centre console one lock and one unlock.
It is switched -ve feeds to pin 4 of each relay to operate their respective function, check with a multimeter while locking/unlocking to see which is which relay.
It will be 12v(battery voltage) dropping to 0v when actuated.
The negative trigger diagram with the instructions is the correct setup for this(ignoring the wonky print), it should be white to lock, white/black to unlock and both yellow and yellow/black to earth.
Directly triggering the door motor is a no-no as when inactive both wires are earthed by the relays, so will damage the remote unit.

If you want to use a master solenoid instead, the last diagram positive and negative trigger will give an alternating output for lock and unlock.

Dave

The below seems spot on advice.

You need to fit an actuator in the drivers door and use your remote system to drive it. Option 3 will do this. This imitates the key in the door and lets the car do the other doors. You cant do the drivers door without a 3rd party actuator fitted. Dont worry about touching any car wiring other than the supply for the alarm unit.

In the pic of the link to the guide above you can see the actuator fitted. You mount it to activate the rod for the inside catch / handle.

Nice and easy.

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Originally posted by obfripper
I haven't got a proper wiring diagram avaiable, but there are 2 separate relays under the centre console one lock and one unlock.
It is switched -ve feeds to pin 4 of each relay to operate their respective function, check with a multimeter while locking/unlocking to see which is which relay.
It will be 12v(battery voltage) dropping to 0v when actuated.
The negative trigger diagram with the instructions is the correct setup for this(ignoring the wonky print), it should be white to lock, white/black to unlock and both yellow and yellow/black to earth.
Directly triggering the door motor is a no-no as when inactive both wires are earthed by the relays, so will damage the remote unit.

If you want to use a master solenoid instead, the last diagram positive and negative trigger will give an alternating output for lock and unlock.

Dave

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quote:

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Originally posted by obfripper
I haven't got a proper wiring diagram avaiable, but there are 2 separate relays under the centre console one lock and one unlock.
It is switched -ve feeds to pin 4 of each relay to operate their respective function, check with a multimeter while locking/unlocking to see which is which relay.
It will be 12v(battery voltage) dropping to 0v when actuated.
The negative trigger diagram with the instructions is the correct setup for this(ignoring the wonky print), it should be white to lock, white/black to unlock and both yellow and yellow/black to earth.
Directly triggering the door motor is a no-no as when inactive both wires are earthed by the relays, so will damage the remote unit.

If you want to use a master solenoid instead, the last diagram positive and negative trigger will give an alternating output for lock and unlock.

Dave

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& I WAS being a numpty, as I hadn't twigged the writing had dropped a line on that first diagram, hence was only earthing the yellow, not both that & the yellow black, the second diagram still confuses me as I don't see how yellow/black can be connected to both earth & 12v, is that achieved by using a 5 wire solenoid to switch the feed over?

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corrected central lock diagram

I meant feeding current to the existing actuator wiring would be a problem, using an actuator to operate the existing rods would he fine.
The solenoid is part of the door latch mechanism, so you would not see anything inside the door.
Unfortunately the workshop data i have access to gives the relay location and pinouts but no direct wiring diagrams.

This looks like a match to the pinouts i have, it doesn't specify what year getz it is for, but may help you to find the correct wires. (i think there may be a typo on this diagram - assist instead of passenger)
The colours may change between years, so make sure the pin location matches.

It may also be possible to actuate via the wire from the lock position switch in the latch, but looking at the diagram both positions are being pulled down to earth so 1 function will require a pulldown resistor. I don't know specifics for a getz, but most vw's require a 1kohm resistor for this purpose.

Dave

Thanks for all your help guys, I think I have my head around it now, so if I wire a 2 wire solenoid as per the 3rd diagram then I believe this should work, will have another play with the remote & control unit tomorrow!

I have ordered a 2 wire universal solenoid kit!

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Originally posted by russbost
Thanks for all your help guys, I think I have my head around it now, so if I wire a 2 wire solenoid as per the 3rd diagram then I believe this should work, will have another play with the remote & control unit tomorrow!

I have ordered a 2 wire universal solenoid kit!

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Again, I agree with this. Simply buy an actuator and put it in the door. Dont worry about the cars own relays, they will do their own thing once the 3rd party door actuator fires.

Also TEST the remote unit and actuator before spending the effort to fit.

One final piece of info, we used to have to change actuators regularly as there is quite a strain on them. We used to spec a particular brand, I think it was AMP or something like that. Either way be prepared to have to change it if it fails.

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Originally posted by gremlin1234

quote:

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Originally posted by russbost
Thanks for all your help guys, I think I have my head around it now, so if I wire a 2 wire solenoid as per the 3rd diagram then I believe this should work, will have another play with the remote & control unit tomorrow!

I have ordered a 2 wire universal solenoid kit!

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I recommend you test it on the bench before fitting, but it should do what you need

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Yes, will be doing a bench test b4 fitting, I should get a chance to at least confirm the remote & receiver does the right thing tomorrow, & will do a further test once I get the solenoid.

Again, thanks for assistance!