Deckman001
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| posted on 16/1/21 at 01:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
A little tip for clearing jets without stripping the carbs , open the throttle so the engine revs then place the palm your hand over the carb inlet
for a couple of seconds, the engine revs will drop, quickly remove your hand while holding the throttle open . Repeat if needed. The vacuum created
often clears any blockage. Poking anything through a jet is likely to enlarge it.
Ahh, so that's why my engine guy was doing that, I thought he was just seeing if closing of any carb changed the engine tone. re poking
something down the jet, I used very thin solder, so soft that it would deform, but it may be what dislodged the blockage, I still couldn't get
any thing solid through the jet, just compressed air mainly so hopefully whatever I did to get it sorted is a permanent solution.
Jason
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 16/1/21 at 02:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
A little tip for clearing jets without stripping the carbs , open the throttle so the engine revs then place the palm your hand over the carb inlet
for a couple of seconds, the engine revs will drop, quickly remove your hand while holding the throttle open . Repeat if needed. The vacuum created
often clears any blockage. Poking anything through a jet is likely to enlarge it.
Ahh, so that's why my engine guy was doing that, I thought he was just seeing if closing of any carb changed the engine tone. re poking
something down the jet, I used very thin solder, so soft that it would deform, but it may be what dislodged the blockage, I still couldn't get
any thing solid through the jet, just compressed air mainly so hopefully whatever I did to get it sorted is a permanent solution.
Jason
Doesn’t always work but always worth a try
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Deckman001
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 11:25 AM |
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Cheers 
Just a thought, does anyone have a heater fitted for the cooler months? Seeing as I am now almost ready to do my retest, should i fit a heater for the
drive there and back during the winter, or should i just man up and accept the challenge of frozen fingers and face as a sacrifice ? 
Jason
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 12:08 PM |
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I have a heater because I have a windscreen but as a heater you can hardly feel any heat while driving unless you put your hand to the vent. Ideally
if I was building again I would look for a heated Caterham screen and just connect a hose from the inlet manifold to the water pump
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Deckman001
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 02:26 PM |
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Ah, fair enough, that's the second recommendation of no heater without a screen and side deflectors/doors :-(
I do have a motorbike helmet or racing fire proof helmet insert balaclava along with gloves and a motocross face shield that could help with cold
weather driving. I was thinking of a second reason for the heater to help warm up my speedo as when cold or damp, it stops showing the mileage
although it does keep the mileage recording to show again once warmed up/dried up.
It's using am M8 sensor from ETB connected through two spade connectors, but it appears that it shouldn't be in an open 7 type car
though.
Does anyone know if this is a stepper type speedo, so I could change the it to a more suitable type?
Jason
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 04:36 PM |
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If the guage is an ETB guage then you can use a gearbox type sensor from Burton
https://www.burtonpower.com/ford-electronic-speedo-sensor-revfss.html
It works well with my t9 box and speedo.
Keith
Aviemore
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 04:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
If the guage is an ETB guage then you can use a gearbox type sensor from Burton
https://www.burtonpower.com/ford-electronic-speedo-sensor-revfss.html
It works well with my t9 box and speedo.
Just be aware that not all type 9 boxes have a speedo drive for cable or electronic. Mine has no facility to fit one on the rear housing
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Deckman001
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 04:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
If the guage is an ETB guage then you can use a gearbox type sensor from Burton
https://www.burtonpower.com/ford-electronic-speedo-sensor-revfss.html
It works well with my t9 box and speedo.
My sensor works fine, it's just the dash speedo that isn't liking the cold damp weather, so am just wondering if the VDO vision type
speedo can be altered to be ok for a 7 type car or if i need to change to a different speedo as a permanent solution?
Jason
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steve m
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 05:38 PM |
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Jason,
I had a heater in my 7 for the first year or so, but it was never that successful, so all ripped out,
what improved all round comfort was a good couple of layers on, and a wooley hat!
Also, with the split toneau and a small side cover for your right arm, it can get quite cosy from the waist down
But driving a 7 in the winter, the rain, cold, etc, is quite a miserable hobby, and these cars are so light, that even with excellent tyres, traction
can be tricky
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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Deckman001
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 07:48 PM |
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Cheers Steve, my main problem is just the timing of a re test at some point soon so a very wintertime drive down to Gillingham Kent hopefully
Jason
Just a thought Steve, do you have a copy of the front suspension geometry I could have as I want to check the front right for correctness and I don’t
have a copy of the book anymore.
Jason
[Edited on 17/1/21 by Deckman001]
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steve m
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 08:40 PM |
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Ive just emailed what i think you needed
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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Deckman001
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| posted on 17/1/21 at 08:50 PM |
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Cheers Steve,
It’s very much appreciated 😊
Jason
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Deckman001
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| posted on 7/2/21 at 12:20 PM |
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Hi all,
I have finished all the jobs I can and am very pleased with it so far. The two jobs left are being done by the MOT center owner, the geometry set up
to check the self centering, and a little bit of welding to tidy up some pre-welded brackets please the IVA tester. then it's another quick
check of the emissions along with a head light alignment check. Sadly though, he has been instructed to self isolate so fingers crossed he'll be
fine in a week or so.
Jason
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Deckman001
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| posted on 10/4/21 at 10:40 AM |
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Just thought I'd set myself up, I failed the original test and the general list is far above. I then did the retest and failed again, this time
my speedo stopped working, and the steering was too stiff resulting in the car not self centreing again. Turns out the bottom ball joins were seized,
the rack was a bit too dry, the steering column was also dry and the angle between the steering column and the rack was extreme. So I have replaced
the lower ball joints, pumped grease back into the rack, made sure the steering column is greased up nicely so smooth, and i have reduced the angle
between it and the rack.
I have made sure that the steering is now a lot easier to turn and even quite smooth, I have now put the car on a laser level set up and all settings
are green apart from an amber on one of them so am very very happy to test it again.
The speedo, was another issue, I had fitted the sender too near the front of the prop shaft and there is a slight oscillation of it resulting in bad
readings, I have moved it further back and along with rewiring the speedo removing some excess cable and joints near the connection and it now is very
smooth and seams to work exactly as it should. Happy days, I can now start to relax about the retest for a few days anyway.
Jason
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 10/4/21 at 04:49 PM |
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Which steering column are you using? If it is a Sierra item it is possible to change the plastic column bush where it goes through the bulk head witha
self aligning bearing which makes the steering even easier and helps with the self centering. Av ailable from Simply Bearings , just use the center
part of the bush reducing the outer diameter to fit through the bearing . Think its been covered on here ?
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Deckman001
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| posted on 11/4/21 at 03:02 PM |
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Yeah it's a sierra one, I've put grease around the top bearing, the spring area below that as well as around that plastic bush through the
rubber grommet, I can now turn the threaded section by hand so hopefully it's now a low free'r
The rack was a bit dry so I also re-greased that too, and with the new lower ball joint, with the wheels off the ground I can turn the steering wheel
by a finger instead of two hands needed
It has now been set up on a digital laser set up as a 94-2011 cat supersport so hopefully it's the same age as my car so hopefully it's
very similar set ups
Just a thought, anyone know which Caterham is of similar design and sizes as a locost ? Am thinking about windscreen and door sizes?
Jason
[Edited on 11/4/21 by Deckman001]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 11/4/21 at 03:54 PM |
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https://nw.rhocar.org/supporting_the_steering_shaft.htm
Have a look at the link. Made a huge difference to my steering effort and self centering
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Deckman001
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| posted on 11/4/21 at 05:37 PM |
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T'is a shame I didn't see this before, I've sadly not got enough time to change what i have so am going to keep my fingers crossed
for the final test attempt I can do.
Jason
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Deckman001
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 01:10 PM |
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Happy days, It Passed today at the retest !!!
So next job is to register it, so a few more hoops to get through based on the donor vehicle being a '77 plate, but the engine turned out to be
a '79 so it won't be a straight forward exercise.
Many thanks for everyone's help with getting my kit car to this stage, hopefully we will all get out soon in 7's and other kitcars for a
breakfast run somewhere.
Jason
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Deckman001
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| posted on 16/4/21 at 03:20 PM |
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Description
My car, sat at the IVA waiting area
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 04:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Even with 1300 pistons for high compression and a performance cam I don’t have any problems with valve/piston clearances . Has your engine been
modified and not had the valve to piston clearances checked? It is possible to machine valve pockets in the pistons . Another possible problem could
be valve timing, or extremely tight valve clearances.When I rebuilt my engine I set the cam timing very carefully to the manufacturers settings before
refitting the head , then I used some thick solder wire through each plug hole under each valve in turn while rotating the crank to test for clearance
. Some people use plasticine but I was being lazy not wanting to remove the head if I didn’t need to . .
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Deckman001
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| posted on 16/5/21 at 01:48 PM |
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Good question, I am waiting to get the pistons back as well as the refurbished head at the same time, but I am intending to fit the pistons first and
then check for valve clearances based on the assessed can valve lift declarations so that I can measure the assumed clearance before I re fit the
engine bottom end and then build it up back into operational mode. Hopefully it will also be normally less noisy now too.
Jason
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