RazMan
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 10:33 AM |
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Quick Release Hinges?
My bodywork is attached with some fairly 'industrial' looking hinges - basically to steel tabs with an M8 bolt running through them - not
exactly elegant or easy to get on & off.
I would like to make something to replace them which is quick release - maybe a couple of pins with R clips?
Is there anything available off the shelf? If not, has anyone got any tips or suggestions
 
Rescued attachment Rear Body Hinge.jpg
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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nick205
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 10:37 AM |
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Could you use some Ø8mm stainless rod and drill holes each end for R clips? You'd need a plain washer each side and possibly some kind of
springing to prevent a loose or rattly fit. Should be easy enough.
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russbost
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 10:39 AM |
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On the new Sprint MK have used a bog standard rising butt door hinge (x 2) obviously the panel needs to be able to slide sideways once released for
this to work.
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headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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iank
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 10:42 AM |
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Simplest solution would be to use a clevis pin instead of the bolt.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 10:43 AM |
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8mm Cotter pins with R clips?
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02GF74
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 10:52 AM |
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^^^ what has been said.
now if you were really cunning, fit a pin through the bolts and make the corresponding slots in the hinge so that is slides out when in a certain
postiion; once it is doen, the small pins prevent it coming apart since the slots are not aligned - hope you can understand what I am syaing without
me having to draw a picture 
Dunno how you address any side to side play but you could make it so t he pins are within 0.5 mm of the hinge and maybe the springiness of the hinge
will aloow it to be bent for assembly?
you would need to ensure the pin/slots on both hinges line up for removal
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StevieB
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 11:07 AM |
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I had a similar type of thing on my old RC cars - use a rubber 'O' ring between the pin and the hinge - it'll ensure a perfect fit
and is really cheap to replace
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 11:12 AM |
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Nylon washers between the components should keep it in line but allow it to turn.
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RazMan
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 11:13 AM |
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Not sure that the 'pin & slot' idea would be very easy to get lined up single handed - I usually have to plonk the bodywork onto the
chassis in its closed position, then rummage around with one hand to try and get everything lined up for the bolts.
Cotter / Clevis pins & R clips & nylon washers would seem to be the simplest idea. Doing a quick search, I can only some short M8 pins but
they must exist somewhere.
[Edited on 8-11-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Danozeman
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 11:38 AM |
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Have a search for mini removable bonnet hinges. they might do your purpose.
They hinge and unclip to remove.
something like these?
[Edited on 8/11/06 by Danozeman]
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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ned
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 01:43 PM |
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you so definately want to use these razman:
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/FASTENERS-&-CATCHES-Pip-Pins/c51_243/index.html
mate of mine had a wing attached using a pair of these each side on a racecar using ally (pillow) blocks either side they worked brilliantly. the
ballbearings retain the clip, press the end so they spring inwards and you can withdraw the pin. you need quite a close fit/tolerance for the pin to
locate correctly.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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RazMan
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 02:03 PM |
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Ooooohh!  Luvverly .......... but £16 each!
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RazMan
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 02:11 PM |
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Found a Locost version on Fleabay!
£2.99 but it looks as if it might do me
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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ned
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 02:34 PM |
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Razman,
I'd wanna be sure the cheaper versions are fully locking as it were, those ones look like the ballbearing is simply sprung whereas the
'proper' (yes expensive!) ones lock the ballbearing until the button on the end is pressed, much like most new socket ratchets that hold
the socket on and have a button to release the ballbearing in the same way.
I'd think with the right size spec'd you'd easily get away with one each side.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Fred W B
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 02:44 PM |
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Search for "tractor cowling" or "tractor linkage pins" - You get some neat ones that have a sprung ring that flips over the
end of the pin to secure the pin once fitted
Cheers
Fred W B
pins
[Edited on 8/11/06 by Fred W B]
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RazMan
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 03:57 PM |
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Thanks guys - the cheaper pins will be ok for fine tuning the bodywork fit which is a real pain when using a nut & bolt. I want to replace the
hinge components with 8mm track rod ends which should make the fit have less play (also some adjustment) and then if it looks viable I will probably
go for some of the super-duper pins for security as you suggest Ned (don't fancy my bodywork parting company at high speed )
The tractor linkage pins might be worth a look too (cheers Fred)
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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caber
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| posted on 8/11/06 at 11:37 PM |
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Find a yacht chandlers, they have stainless steel clevis pins in all sorts of sizes along with R clips, spring spacers etc. they hold yacht riging
together.
regards
Caber
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sgraber
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| posted on 22/11/06 at 06:55 PM |
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Raz, the spring loaded ones are the same as the ones I chose to prototype my front hinge. I used a steel tube as the hinge material on the bonnet
side and on the chassis a rose-joint for a bit of front-rear adjustment. I drilled a small hole in the side of the tube so that the sprung ball pops
into the hole when its fully inserted and rotated. Mine pop in with a nice 'click'.
That said, I much prefer the T-handled ones with the push button on the end of the T to unlock the ball. But they are 10x as expensive! And I can
tell you that the spring loaded ones, with the ball in the hole are not going to come out by themselves. It takes a strong tug and rotating the pin to
release the ball from it's socket.
Take a look at http://www.mcmaster.com/ and do a search for 'Ball lock pins' There are many styles of them available.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/11/06 at 10:19 PM |
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Thanks Steve. Coincidentally I have been talking to a UK pip pin manufacturer today - this guy can TALK about pins!
After a 30 minute conversation he came to the conclusion that I didn't need a stainless pin (as I assumed) because the plating is up to military
spec and will probably out-live the car anyway. Also a single ball is better than a twin ball because the latter requires a spring which can clog with
road dirt (a single ball has a poly 'pad' which can't clog.
The T handle is, as you conclude, the best version for ease of insertion but if you can get access to both ends of the pin, a 'drop nose'
version is much more secure - it has a tab which rotates 90 degrees and provides a firm surface to bear against.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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sgraber
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| posted on 22/11/06 at 10:24 PM |
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That drop nose unit is the dogs danglies! I've not seen those around these parts. How much are they and do you want to ship me a batch?
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/11/06 at 10:32 PM |
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I am trying to blag a sample or two but I think they are fairly expensive (about £10 each ) I also think they are only available in 10mm upwards
which might be a bit large but I will make further enquiries.
Check out this link for some more info.
[Edited on 22-11-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 23/11/06 at 10:42 AM |
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I used to make those drop nose pins when i was an apprentice, they're real easy to make.
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RazMan
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| posted on 23/11/06 at 09:30 PM |
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Just got one of these as a sample ...
The operation is a bit too fiddly IMO as you have to grip & pull the tab out and then rotate it - I can't see me doing that easily when it
is covered in road crud.
Ah well, a few more begging calls needed
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Alan B
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| posted on 28/11/06 at 04:01 PM |
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This is what I did for mine..
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RazMan
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| posted on 28/11/06 at 04:08 PM |
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That's just showing off that is
What size is involved there Alan? I assume that is an R clip but do you position everything and insert the pin, then click in the R clip?
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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