b14wrc
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| posted on 26/11/16 at 06:04 PM |
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20vt powered rear engined locost
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b14wrc
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| posted on 4/12/16 at 11:43 AM |
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Hi all,
Sunday morning update....
Completed the final rear suspension set up, both sides.
I still have to join the two sections and add brackets for the shock to mount.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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Matt21
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| posted on 5/12/16 at 10:53 AM |
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Am I seeing this correctly...
The uprights you are using at front ones from a fwd car?
And the way you have them held with the suspension arms means that the only thing holding them straight is the rear part of the upright with the 2
bolts through it?
Surely that isn't very strong? and a hard corner or braking would try to turn the rear wheels and potentially sheer that part off, meaning you
suddenly get an uncontrolable rear wheel steer car?
I think I would be looking at making the top mount where the ball joint is into a solid mount too, or better yet, use some uprights with the track rod
end arms still on and make an adjustable link to the chassis which would be stronger and also allow rear toe to be adjusted?
But maybe I have completely the wrong idea! 
Also, how come you went with those uprights and not for the usual rear uprights that are bolted through at the top and bottom like these?
Instagram: @matt211988
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b14wrc
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| posted on 14/1/17 at 11:30 AM |
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Started making the bottom shock mounts.
Just need to figure how to make a good strong top mount, I'm thinking of making a cut out in the bottom chassis rail so the arms can go slightly
lower, the shocks are S2 Elise and have about 65mm of travel to the bump stops. I haven't tried the suspension with the motor in yet obviously
so it's all a bit trial and error.
Also, I am going to chop the bushed joint off the bottom of the shock and change for a rose joint, or eventually buy new shocks, I will have issues I
think adjusting the toe as it is at the moment as the spring will tend to resist the twisting movement.
I couldn't mount the shock directly to the bottom arm.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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b14wrc
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| posted on 20/1/17 at 08:34 PM |
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20vt powered rear engined locost
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b14wrc
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| posted on 18/2/17 at 11:02 AM |
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Mocked up the new shock bottom mounts this morning. Happy with position now.
20vt powered rear engined locost
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b14wrc
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| posted on 27/2/17 at 12:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Matt21
Am I seeing this correctly...
The uprights you are using at front ones from a fwd car?
And the way you have them held with the suspension arms means that the only thing holding them straight is the rear part of the upright with the 2
bolts through it?
Surely that isn't very strong? and a hard corner or braking would try to turn the rear wheels and potentially sheer that part off, meaning you
suddenly get an uncontrolable rear wheel steer car?
I think I would be looking at making the top mount where the ball joint is into a solid mount too, or better yet, use some uprights with the track rod
end arms still on and make an adjustable link to the chassis which would be stronger and also allow rear toe to be adjusted?
But maybe I have completely the wrong idea!
Also, how come you went with those uprights and not for the usual rear uprights that are bolted through at the top and bottom like these?
Hi Matt,
My rear suspension does have adjustment for toe, its really easy, just wind in or out the toe link at the rear, same as the Lotus Elise. Saw your post
about your toe adjustment, and note the design of your car does not have adjustability for toe, hence why I didn't go for a similar arrangement.
I wouldn't want to have to shim it to change the toe, I am planning to use shims on the front upper arms to change caster. So from that point, I
am kind of limited on packaging space. I did consider mounting my shock off the top wish bone, but it would mean the CoG is higher and make adjustment
more difficult with the car sat on the ground. Plus I want my body work to be as tidy as possible, meaning no additional items to make the rear clam
longer or wider and the wheel arches should still look 7 style.
I have tried building my car as accurately as possible, but I'm sure there will be error (+/-5.0mm) and hence why camber and toe are adjustable.
Yes, front wheel drive hubs from my donor, I wanted to use these as it make my driveshaft choice and install easier, ie standard coupe 20vt ones.
People have commented on this before and I can't really see why its a problem.
Regarding the steering arm, I removed these to eliminate bump steer, I would have had problems with mounting them in a position which would have
introduced unwanted rear wheel steering. I feel my method is simpler.
Ford hubs wouldn't fit with the fiat drive shafts.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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