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Author: Subject: Mick's MNR Mazda: Build Log
sdh2903

posted on 7/1/16 at 04:46 PM Reply With Quote
Well as promised. The fiat master cyl has arrived. No retaining circlip. Although I think would be very easy to knock up a retainer as the end of the pushrod is domed.

Mastcyl
Mastcyl

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micksalt

posted on 7/1/16 at 07:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Well as promised. The fiat master cyl has arrived. No retaining circlip. Although I think would be very easy to knock up a retainer as the end of the pushrod is domed.

Mastcyl
Mastcyl



Ah, bad luck, however, easily fixed with a retaining bracket attached to the pedal side of the bulkhead with that particular push rod.

FabricatedBracket
FabricatedBracket


I'll wait to see what Marc has to say before I do anything drastic. If I don't like the solution I may fork out for the Westfield retained master cylinder.

[Edited on 7/1/2016 by micksalt]

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micksalt

posted on 10/1/16 at 08:41 AM Reply With Quote
If I had access to a lathe, this would be my solution.

MX5Pushrod
MX5Pushrod


The critical dimension is the radius of the middle section of the pushrod, it should be small enough to enter the body of the pushrod, even accounting for small angular deflections of the pushrod, but large enough to pass through the slit of the fabricated bracket.

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jim87

posted on 10/1/16 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by micksalt
If I had access to a lathe, this would be my solution.

MX5Pushrod
MX5Pushrod


The critical dimension is the radius of the middle section of the pushrod, it should be small enough to enter the body of the pushrod, even accounting for small angular deflections of the pushrod, but large enough to pass through the slit of the fabricated bracket.



You could just extend the thread on your existing pushrod, and use a nut as the stopper. If the nut is too big then you could grind it down to size.

I actually ended up buying a small lathe for this kind of thing - not really necessary, but you can make bespoke stuff like this easily

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micksalt

posted on 28/1/16 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
I've contacted MNR to see what is being done to address the pedal issue, and Marc is indeed getting to grips with the new lathe to engineer the solution. I'd better get cracking, I've had a lazy month....
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jim87

posted on 28/1/16 at 12:13 PM Reply With Quote
While you're looking at the pedals, you might want to think about the accelerator pedal.
I've been having a problems with it sticking a little. I think its probably because one the plastic bushings on the pedal isn't quite square.
I've taken them out now, and am replacing them with aluminium spacers and bearings.

A return spring might help, but that'd be much easier without all the bodywork in place !

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micksalt

posted on 29/1/16 at 11:52 AM Reply With Quote
Thankfully, I have a box full of bushings and bits donated to me by a friend for fixing his computer should I have problems with the accelerator pedal.
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micksalt

posted on 4/2/16 at 03:25 PM Reply With Quote
Please can I ask anyone that has built the Mazda based kit to take a photo of the upper rear suspension where it attaches to the upright? As it stands, it looks liek the gap in the upper arm is much wider than the top bushing of the upright, and I want to make sure this is correct. It just seems a little odd for the bushing just to be held into position by the friction-fit into the upright, rather than being backed up by appropriate spacers each side. Ta in advance
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jim87

posted on 5/2/16 at 10:45 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by micksalt
Please can I ask anyone that has built the Mazda based kit to take a photo of the upper rear suspension where it attaches to the upright? As it stands, it looks liek the gap in the upper arm is much wider than the top bushing of the upright, and I want to make sure this is correct. It just seems a little odd for the bushing just to be held into position by the friction-fit into the upright, rather than being backed up by appropriate spacers each side. Ta in advance


I don't have a photo at the moment, but I remember I had to put 3 or 4 washers in between the top upright mount/bush and the bottom damper mount, to pack it out so that there was no gap.

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l5tuy

posted on 5/2/16 at 11:01 AM Reply With Quote
Same here bud. Think I used 1 washer between each joint to space everything out which kept it all tight. From memory had to use vice to press bushings into upright.

1 thing I did notice is the upright and lower diameter of suspension strut had a slight rub.

I'll have photo's, pain in the ass loading them onto here though. Give me an e-mail of Facebook and i'll send you some.

Stu

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jim87

posted on 5/2/16 at 11:10 AM Reply With Quote
I needed at least 3 washers in between damper and upright to avoid the rubbing you mention. With 4 in, everything lined up ans was nice and tight.
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micksalt

posted on 8/2/16 at 02:18 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers folks, I see how it all works now. I'm running out of jobs to do before I'll need the MNR fix for the brake master cylinder. Still, it'll take a while to order all the other parts I need for the engine and gearbox.

I'll get some pictures up soon with the latest and final painting jobs.

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micksalt

posted on 17/3/16 at 08:29 AM Reply With Quote
Big order arrived from MX5-Parts yesterday, I'll get cracking again
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micksalt

posted on 19/3/16 at 11:25 PM Reply With Quote
Whilst working on the car yesterday, I realised that all the EGR delete kits don't block the exhaust manifold end, so you're left with the weight and engine bay clutter of the connecting pipe. Not any more

RedneckEGRDelete
RedneckEGRDelete

EGRDelete
EGRDelete


Anyway, next issue, the O/S flexible brake hose from the MX-5 is permanently joined to a 2-way connector block. How have folk plumbed up their rear brake hoses? The rear flexi-hoses on an MX-5 are handed, so it's not as if I can order another N/S hose and use that. By the way, all reference I make to N/S and O/S are relative to the MX-5, I know they swap sides on the Vortx.

Cheers in advance,

Mick

[Edited on 19/3/2016 by micksalt]

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micksalt

posted on 20/3/16 at 04:59 PM Reply With Quote
Mystery solved thanks to Stu, the flexi hoses should have been included in the kit!
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micksalt

posted on 18/4/16 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
Flexi hoses have now turned up amongst a goodie bag of a fair few other parts. Marc is still getting to grips with his lathe, but is working on the push-rod fix
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micksalt

posted on 22/4/16 at 07:39 AM Reply With Quote
A little indulgence on the brake caliper refurbishment:

BiggRed
BiggRed

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james h

posted on 23/4/16 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Mick,

If you don't mind, could you tell me how much you paid Bigg Red for the calipers? My friend's mk1 MX5 has binding brakes at the moment, so much so that the pads have worn all the way down over 18 months!!

Cheers,

James

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micksalt

posted on 23/4/16 at 08:11 PM Reply With Quote
296 including new slider pins and return postage. I think the outbound postage was about 16, so 312 all in for all four calipers.
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james h

posted on 23/4/16 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by micksalt
296 including new slider pins and return postage. I think the outbound postage was about 16, so 312 all in for all four calipers.


Thanks

I just rang my friend, turns out she's bought some none OEM replacements anyway!

[Edited on 23/4/16 by james h]

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micksalt

posted on 23/5/16 at 06:07 PM Reply With Quote
PUBLIC DECLARATION: I am a muppet.

I fired Marc an email to find out where he was up to with the new retained pushrod design. The response I got that he had already sent me the prototype, and then the penny dropped, the curious looking bolt I received in addition to all my other parts WAS the push rod modification, intended to be retained by the original master cylinder circlip.

Push Rod
Push Rod


Two minutes with a pair of circlip pliers, and the problem was solved

Master Cylinder
Master Cylinder


Now I've got the big event at the railway out of the way, I can get properly cracking.

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sdh2903

posted on 23/5/16 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
Get cracking? Thought you'd have finished by now!
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micksalt

posted on 23/5/16 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Get cracking? Thought you'd have finished by now!


I wish, too busy sorting this event out http://www.ww1-event.org

[Edited on 23/5/2016 by micksalt]

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micksalt

posted on 26/5/16 at 10:34 AM Reply With Quote
*** EDIT: the push rod fix DOES work, please see my follow-up thread ***

Bummer, the MNR push-rod fix doesn't work. It seemed like an elegant solution in principle, but the washer and push rod hold the master cylinder too far in for the inlet ports to be exposed, so there's no way to get fluid into the system. A little bit disappointed if I'm honest, I expected something more like my proposal after waiting months

MX5Pushrod
MX5Pushrod


[Edited on 28/5/2016 by micksalt]

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sdh2903

posted on 26/5/16 at 12:45 PM Reply With Quote
I'd just bin off the std mx5 unit anyway. You'll get a much better feel from a smaller bore cylinder that's designed for non servo applications anyway.
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