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Author: Subject: Duratec install progress - sump construction underway
Xtreme Kermit

posted on 14/11/09 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good!

I remember reading somewhere that the cam chain tensioner can cause issues of duratecs.

Are you planning to replace/upgrade?

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flak monkey

posted on 14/11/09 at 05:34 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks.

My understanding was that there have been issues with the tenisioner at prolonged high revs (i.e. race use) but in normal driving and with a 7500rpm or less rev limit the standard one was ok.

I know SBD do an aftermarket one to fit though.

David





Sera

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scootz

posted on 17/11/09 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
What are you guys doing with the plumbing... ???

I had resigned myself to going down the Raceline route, but as I've bags of room in the engine bay I thought I'd just core-plug one of the ports on the OEM outlet and route piping to the rad. Am I being a tad simplistic, or is it simply a case of 'if the cap fits... '???





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flak monkey

posted on 17/11/09 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
I was going to use some 32mm stainless tube to bring the outlet on the back of the head to the front and then simply connect to the rad.

Its a job for the next month or so.

Should be simple enough to fabricate a pipe to do it rather than spend a fortune on a water rail

David





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scootz

posted on 17/11/09 at 08:55 PM Reply With Quote
I'm trying to visualize the OE outlet... am I right in thinking it has 2 large diameter opposing outlets and one smaller one???





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flak monkey

posted on 17/11/09 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
It has 4 connections IIRC 32mm, 2 off 19mm and a 6mm IIRC.

So 32mm to rad, 19mm to header tank, other to thermostat bypass and 6mm air bleed to header.


David





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scootz

posted on 17/11/09 at 09:19 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers David.





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flak monkey

posted on 21/11/09 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
Continued with the engine rebuild today.

Deglazed the bores and then washed everything down to get rid of the grit.

Fitted the ARP main studs into the block. Removed, inspected and cleaned the bearings in both the block and the ladder.

ARP Mains
ARP Mains


Fitted the pistons to the rods, which was a nice clean and easy job with the fully floating pins. There's definately a knack to fitting spriolocks though, and it seems to be a quick shove with a piece of dowel!

Also fitted the rings, which was a nice easy job, did them all by hand this time. I did check the ring end gap before fitting them to the pistons and all seemed well.

Rods and pistons
Rods and pistons


Next the pistons and rods were fitted to the block. Also fitted the ARP head studs

ARP head studs
ARP head studs


Closer examination of the head reveals 4 bent exhaust valves from when the exhaust cam snapped. More expense which I could do without at the moment. Its looking more and more like the engines not going to be ready and the whole projects slipping behind at the moment.

Next job is to take the crank to be modified by Scholar on monday morning, this can then be refitted back into the block

David





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beaver34

posted on 21/11/09 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
i can sort you new valves out cheaper than retail, you still have my email?
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goaty

posted on 22/11/09 at 11:06 AM Reply With Quote
how much did you manage to get the arps for in the end?? were Arrow useful??
And i spoke to Scholar about my bottom end, been there for 3 weeks now and on Friday they hadn't even started....lol. No prob as i dont have time anyway at mo.
cant wait to see mine looking like that

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flak monkey

posted on 22/11/09 at 11:48 AM Reply With Quote
Got them from arrow, £75.15+vat so cant complain really!

I am taking my crank down to Scholar on monday and they are doing it while I wait hopefully anyway!

Going to get both my ali crank pulley and the std one keyed I think.

David





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goaty

posted on 22/11/09 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
cool, progress is being made. cant wait to see both done
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flak monkey

posted on 23/11/09 at 07:22 PM Reply With Quote
Another busy day today.

Took the crank down to Scholar Engines in near Stowmarket to get the crank keyed. Top job and turned it around in 2 hours for me as well! So I was home just after lunch.

Keyed crank
Keyed crank


keyed pulley and gear
keyed pulley and gear


Cleaned it all up and fitted to the block. Torqued up the ARP main studs then fitted the conrods to the crank, again with ARP bolts.

Crank and rods refitted
Crank and rods refitted


Then fitted the gear to the crank and the oil pump and fitted the modified oil pick up pipe.

Oil pump drive
Oil pump drive


I also nearly finished modifying the chain cover. The engine mount is redundant and possibly in the way of the belt so I cut it off with the grinder. Still need to tidy it up a bit, then probably paint the cover to tidy it up, though I may not.

This is the std front cover with the fwd engine mount

Std front cover
Std front cover


And this is the same cover with the mount removed

Modded front cover
Modded front cover


I will make some bungs for the old bolt holes too as they arent required any more either. Or I could counterbore the holes and fit cap heads. Not really decided yet!





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matt.c

posted on 28/11/09 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
New garage needs a nice girly calendar on the wall

Engine is coming along nicely now. Can wait to hear it running.






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flak monkey

posted on 6/12/09 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
Been fettling the head and getting it ready to fit this weekend, in amongst pulling some ceilings down in the flat. So all in all a productive and destructive weekend all around!

I took the oppotunity while the head was off to remove all the casting marks from the ports and smooth off the short turns in the inlet ports as these had a sharp edge in, similar to that seen in the early pinto heads. Other than that the ports are incredibly well shaped from the factory so I didnt remove a lot of material.

My felxi shaft broke halfway through which means I couldnt really touch the dividers in the ports as I didnt have enough reach, that said they arent bad, and with the amount of turbulence the supercharger is going to create I dont think it will matter too much!

I also removed all the sharp edges from the inside of the combustion chamber to prevent any hotspots then gave them a quick once over to smooth them over. There isnt really a spotface for the valve inserts, which was good, so other than removing the edge, they were left as machined.

Final job was to lap the valves in which didnt take too long as the seats were in very good condition anyway.

Heres the pics of the finished article. Apologies for the crappy quality, forgot my camera today so these are off the phone!

Inlet ports:
Head rebuild 1
Head rebuild 1


Head rebuild 3
Head rebuild 3


Head rebuild 6
Head rebuild 6


General view of combustion chambers:
Head rebuild 2
Head rebuild 2


Exhaust ports:
Head rebuild 4
Head rebuild 4


Head rebuild 5
Head rebuild 5



All this was followed by a thorough hosing down and blowing all the passages out with the airline to remove all traces of swarf.

Just waiting for the uprated valve springs to arrive now. Thought it was worth fitting them now while the head was off, so if I decide to change the cam at any time I dont need to take the head off again!





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scootz

posted on 6/12/09 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
Very nice!

[Edited on 7/12/09 by scootz]





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gdc

posted on 18/12/09 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
slightly of topic , i have in the last 12 months fitted an st170 engine its badged as a duretec but its i think a transition engine between the zetec and duratec .
cast block and ally head but with vvt .
with A very restrictive ex manifold ie a standard rhsc zetec one its producing over 200 bhp on jenvies and megasquirt mapping .
by the way i do like the look of that duratec engine ,
all the best with the project graham

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flak monkey

posted on 18/12/09 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Graham

Yes the ST170 is a zetec engine with VVT for the extra power

I have done a bit more today, but will put a full on update on at the end of the weekend.

All being well the engine will be fully build, new sump fitted and everything ready for the car. Then it will be on to making the supercharger brackets





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flak monkey

posted on 19/12/09 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
A little more progress today. I can't feel my toes, but there we go!

This morning I made my clutch slave cylinder spacer. I skimmed a bit of material off the bellhousing so I could make a spacer thick enough to counterbore the heads of the SHCS into it.

Not bolted it in yet.

Clutch spacer
Clutch spacer


Refitted all the valves to the cylinder head yesterday afternoon. Bit of a tedious job. Found the best way to refit the collets was with some grease on a screwdriver, unless you have really small fingers!

Springs were replaced with uprated kent cams ones as the standard ones are a bit weak.

Head rebuild 7
Head rebuild 7


Head rebuild 9
Head rebuild 9


Head rebuild 10
Head rebuild 10


Then I set about refitting the cylinder head. Lubed up all the ARP studs before slipping the head on as its virtually impossible to reach them once the head is on. Used some grease in a socket to fit the nuts and then torqued it all up.

Head on
Head on


Once that was on I refitted the camshafts and torqued the caps. Then checked all the valve clearances, looks like I will need a few new buckets! More expense!

Then I fitted the new sump. Leak tested it last night and all seemed ok, then fitted the windage tray and then cleaned it all out again. Sprayed it with high temp paint this morning before starting the other jobs. Its more silver than it looks in the pics.

Put a bead of loctite 5900 around the flange and popped it on the engine. A bit of a fiddle to ensure the flaps dont get stuck in the wrong place.

Sump fitted 1
Sump fitted 1


Sump fitted 2
Sump fitted 2


Think that will probably be it for this weekend, too damn chilly out!





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FASTdan

posted on 20/12/09 at 09:54 AM Reply With Quote
Looking good!

Quick question - how the hell does the alternator tensioner work on these engines?

We have the one from the 2.0 mondeo (but will be using the 1800 foci one as you have) but it looks like they both operate in a similar manner.

Are they sprung? We cant get ours to move in any direction at all?! It has a couple of arrows on but we've had it in a vice etc trying to move it but no luck?

Is there any adjustment in them?





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flak monkey

posted on 20/12/09 at 11:15 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Dan,

The focus one swivels.

Looking at it from the front (pulley side) it should be spring loaded if you try and turn it anticlockwise. Put a big spanner on the hex in the middle of the pulley and try to turn it anticlockwise and it should move against the spring.

The mondeo one is also similar but fits on the bottom left of the block.

David





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goaty

posted on 20/12/09 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
lloking awesome now David, i do love the look of a nice lean engine coing together. And i guess the Kent springs arrived first...lol.
manaed to get some done on mine yesterday too, but was too cold. will load some pics too

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FASTdan

posted on 20/12/09 at 09:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Hi Dan,

The focus one swivels.

Looking at it from the front (pulley side) it should be spring loaded if you try and turn it anticlockwise. Put a big spanner on the hex in the middle of the pulley and try to turn it anticlockwise and it should move against the spring.

The mondeo one is also similar but fits on the bottom left of the block.

David


I thought that must be how its supposed to work, Will have to give ours another try. So to install the belt presumably you use the spanner to relieve some of the tension then wrap the belt over and release?

Still need to get hold of a focus tensioner.





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flak monkey

posted on 21/12/09 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
Thats correct. Turn tensioner anticlockwise with spanner, then slip the belt over and release.





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Micael

posted on 21/12/09 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Flywheel part number


Just for information

The flywheel Flak is using can be found on
Ford Focus 2004-2007 1.8 petrol, with engine code Q7DA.

[Edited on 21/12/09 by Micael]





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